* HOW TO * under fifty bux *
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: Republic of Texas
Mod QD Windsheild to reduce buffeting (fxdf)
The buffeting was causing blurred vision at about 65mph or so, with a fullface helmet. I thought about adding lowers, but hate the look. Thought about kicking out the lower windshield mounts, but I'm not much of a fabricator. So, I carefully drilled a couple of holes and laid the windshield back. It's not 100% cure, but I can easily go 85mph with very little head shake. And the windshield looks better on the bike.
Attachment 26376
You'll need to drill a 1/2" hole under the windshield upper mounting slot, 1/2" from the back edge.
Attachment 26377
Tape the brackets. Mark a centerline where the bracket will fit above the QD attachment.
Attachment 26380
Mark the center of the 1/2" hole, 1/2" from the back edge of the bracket. Use a centerpunch to mark the spot. Tape both brackets securely together, back-to-back, and mount in a vise to ensure the holes will line up perfectly, then drill a pilot hole. Carefully drill a 1/2" hole for the original bolt. Clean it up and remount the windshield.
Attachment 26382
Attachment 26383
I could only attach 5 pics, but I can send more, if you need them.
Bear
Attachment 26376
You'll need to drill a 1/2" hole under the windshield upper mounting slot, 1/2" from the back edge.
Attachment 26377
Tape the brackets. Mark a centerline where the bracket will fit above the QD attachment.
Attachment 26380
Mark the center of the 1/2" hole, 1/2" from the back edge of the bracket. Use a centerpunch to mark the spot. Tape both brackets securely together, back-to-back, and mount in a vise to ensure the holes will line up perfectly, then drill a pilot hole. Carefully drill a 1/2" hole for the original bolt. Clean it up and remount the windshield.
Attachment 26382
Attachment 26383
I could only attach 5 pics, but I can send more, if you need them.
Bear
Last edited by soldierbot; Apr 2, 2021 at 07:46 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,120
Likes: 17
From: Indiana
The buffeting was causing blurred vision at about 65mph or so, with a fullface helmet. I thought about adding lowers, but hate the look. Thought about kicking out the lower windshield mounts, but I'm not much of a fabricator. So, I carefully drilled a couple of holes and laid the windshield back. It's not 100% cure, but I can easily go 85mph with very little head shake. And the windshield looks better on the bike.
You'll need to drill a 1/2" hole under the windshield upper mounting slot, 1/2" from the back edge.
Tape the brackets. Mark a centerline where the bracket will fit above the QD attachment.
Mark the center of the 1/2" hole, 1/2" from the back edge of the bracket. Use a centerpunch to mark the spot. Tape both brackets securely together, back-to-back, and mount in a vise to ensure the holes will line up perfectly, then drill a pilot hole. Carefully drill a 1/2" hole for the original bolt. Clean it up and remount the windshield.
I could only attach 5 pics, but I can send more, if you need them.
Bear
You'll need to drill a 1/2" hole under the windshield upper mounting slot, 1/2" from the back edge.
Tape the brackets. Mark a centerline where the bracket will fit above the QD attachment.
Mark the center of the 1/2" hole, 1/2" from the back edge of the bracket. Use a centerpunch to mark the spot. Tape both brackets securely together, back-to-back, and mount in a vise to ensure the holes will line up perfectly, then drill a pilot hole. Carefully drill a 1/2" hole for the original bolt. Clean it up and remount the windshield.
I could only attach 5 pics, but I can send more, if you need them.
Bear
So that doesn't aim the wind coming from the top of the windshield to hit you directly in the head?? The reason I ask is because all my buffeting was coming from the top of the windshield. My windshield was always set barely above the head light and I get nothing from down there and when I would put my hand above the windshield the buffeting went away so all I did was tilt my windshield forward a half inch and the wind was diverted over my head and no more buffeting. It's not a 100% either and I get no buffeting with a full face and very little with a half! Most of my wind in the face comes off of my shins. Just asking!
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,120
Likes: 17
From: Indiana
I hear you on that, but these bugs suck out here in farm land! The 3inch splat on my full face was the final straw.
May our Moderator Rest in Peace
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
Likes: 35
From: Rochester, NY
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: Republic of Texas
I'm 6'1" and with the windshield just above the headlight I get a steady stream of air hitting the top of my helmet, but it's not turbulent like what was coming around and under the shield. I have room to raise it another 2-3 inches, and that should take all the wind off my helmet, but I like having some air, and that might open it up too much for wind over the headlight. I only use the windshield in the winter or for long trips, so it'll come off in another month or so.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,120
Likes: 17
From: Indiana
I'm 6'1" and with the windshield just above the headlight I get a steady stream of air hitting the top of my helmet, but it's not turbulent like what was coming around and under the shield. I have room to raise it another 2-3 inches, and that should take all the wind off my helmet, but I like having some air, and that might open it up too much for wind over the headlight. I only use the windshield in the winter or for long trips, so it'll come off in another month or so.
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee area
Homemade riser extensions
Well, shopmade, really. I found a stainless tube laying around the shop where I work. I cut two pieces down to about 2˝" and squared the ends. It's a piece of scrap I found in the shop.
Thanks to Loner Industries for the tip, you can get a 12"L x 1"OD x 5/8"ID stainless tube here for less than $50
Thanks to Loner Industries for the tip, you can get a 12"L x 1"OD x 5/8"ID stainless tube here for less than $50
Last edited by soldierbot; Apr 2, 2021 at 07:46 AM.
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Clifton, ME
i already started a thread of my own for this, but as suggested, it fits here:
"okay, so we don't all have the change for a bike jack/center stand. heres one that i made from stuff that i had lying around: a 2x4, a hinge, a couple square feet of plywood, and some nails/screws. cost if you dont do much carpentry, maybe $20. maybe.
what i do is slide it under the scoot when the scoot is on the jiffy stand. position it far enough back on the frame that it wont slip off or pinch the clutch cable (which fits between the two upper bunches of 2x4), grab a handful of front brake, and right the bike, leaning it to the right. i then reach down and flip up the hinged part, and set the bike down on it. voila, front wheel off the ground and scoot is level.
Be careful. this isn't for anyone who can't lean their bike over in a controlled way. its just a little thing i use to help with my bike work. Also, make SURE the jiffy stand is down all the way BEFORE you attempt to take the bike off of this stand.
"okay, so we don't all have the change for a bike jack/center stand. heres one that i made from stuff that i had lying around: a 2x4, a hinge, a couple square feet of plywood, and some nails/screws. cost if you dont do much carpentry, maybe $20. maybe.
what i do is slide it under the scoot when the scoot is on the jiffy stand. position it far enough back on the frame that it wont slip off or pinch the clutch cable (which fits between the two upper bunches of 2x4), grab a handful of front brake, and right the bike, leaning it to the right. i then reach down and flip up the hinged part, and set the bike down on it. voila, front wheel off the ground and scoot is level.
Be careful. this isn't for anyone who can't lean their bike over in a controlled way. its just a little thing i use to help with my bike work. Also, make SURE the jiffy stand is down all the way BEFORE you attempt to take the bike off of this stand.
Last edited by soldierbot; Apr 2, 2021 at 07:46 AM.
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 782
Likes: 7
From: Texas
Here is my Ignition switch relocation on an 07 FXD Dash.
1 7/8 holesaw is a perfect fit, didnt need drill press as the pilot bit kept it running straight and true.
purchased the switch at BK Riders $22 shipped.
Since my AME kit wont allow use of the fork lock, I am wiring the power thru the neck switch to allow me to kill power to the dash mounted switch for added security, when I turn the neck switch to the ACC position it will open the power circuit to the dash mounted switch and apply power to my alarm system. (cut the nub off the neck key and it will come out in any position).
About 2 hours to cut the hole and mount the switch.
1 7/8 holesaw is a perfect fit, didnt need drill press as the pilot bit kept it running straight and true.
purchased the switch at BK Riders $22 shipped.
Since my AME kit wont allow use of the fork lock, I am wiring the power thru the neck switch to allow me to kill power to the dash mounted switch for added security, when I turn the neck switch to the ACC position it will open the power circuit to the dash mounted switch and apply power to my alarm system. (cut the nub off the neck key and it will come out in any position).
About 2 hours to cut the hole and mount the switch.
Last edited by soldierbot; Apr 2, 2021 at 07:46 AM.