Originally Posted by OsoFat

The buffeting was causing blurred vision at about 65mph or so, with a fullface helmet. I thought about adding lowers, but hate the look. Thought about kicking out the lower windshield mounts, but I'm not much of a fabricator. So, I carefully drilled a couple of holes and laid the windshield back. It's not 100% cure, but I can easily go 85mph with very little head shake. And the windshield looks better on the bike.

You'll need to drill a 1/2" hole under the windshield upper mounting slot, 1/2" from the back edge.

Tape the brackets. Mark a centerline where the bracket will fit above the QD attachment.


Mark the center of the 1/2" hole, 1/2" from the back edge of the bracket. Use a centerpunch to mark the spot. Tape both brackets securely together, back-to-back, and mount in a vise to ensure the holes will line up perfectly, then drill a pilot hole. Carefully drill a 1/2" hole for the original bolt. Clean it up and remount the windshield.

I could only attach 5 pics, but I can send more, if you need them.

Bear

Originally Posted by OrdinaryJoe

Hi -

I've been lurking for a while now and getting many great ideas for cheap mods from this thread : thanks all you guys for contributing so much !

The time has come for me to add my little idea here : I was removing the hard panniers that came with my sportster (bike was a used buy, came with the original HD 'sports' panniers which are a bit useless : load limited to 7lb each side and too small to fit most things into) and I wanted to relocate my rear indicators to the standard locations (they were on extension arms to fit behind the panniers).

Of course I didn't actually have the original supports so I decided I'd make a pair. They cost me exactly - nothing : all done with bits I had lying around in my toolboxes and odds&sods box.

I used :
- 2 bolts, thread to match indicator mount and 2 in. long approx.
- 2 washers to go between bolt head and inside of rear fender
- 2 20mm (just over 3/4 in)(I know, but I function in metric) pieces of copper plumbing pipe ext. diameter 14mm (9/16 approx.), same as you would use for plumbing a house.

Tools necessary :
- 1 spanner to fit bolt heads
- 1 drop of loctite per side
- 1 plumber's pipe cutter (good) or 1 sharp hacksaw (not so good) - I prefer the pipe cutter because it's easy to get the 2 pieces of copper exactly identical in length.
- 1 belt sander or sanding bench to remove any chamfer left by cutting tool .

You don't really need the sanding bench, but it just makes things neater. You *could* get the same result with a flat file and emery cloth.

Now my rear indicators sit really close to the fender, don't move at all (I rode 25mi to work this morning and still perfectly tight. The copper can be left bare or painted silver/black and because it is NOT plastic you can really pull the bolt tight.

Total time necessary, once the indicators were re-wired properly : 10 minutes to cut pipe, sand down, source bolts and washers from the Box of Oddments (tm) and tighten to spec.
Total cost : zero (OK, 1/2 bottle of wine for my own enjoyment, but I don't count that as project cost)

Originally Posted by Grind

Well, shopmade, really. I found a stainless tube laying around the shop where I work. I cut two pieces down to about 2˝" and squared the ends. It's a piece of scrap I found in the shop.

Thanks to Loner Industries for the tip, you can get a 12"L x 1"OD x 5/8"ID stainless tube here for less than $50

Originally Posted by condition001

i already started a thread of my own for this, but as suggested, it fits here:

"okay, so we don't all have the change for a bike jack/center stand. heres one that i made from stuff that i had lying around: a 2x4, a hinge, a couple square feet of plywood, and some nails/screws. cost if you dont do much carpentry, maybe $20. maybe.

what i do is slide it under the scoot when the scoot is on the jiffy stand. position it far enough back on the frame that it wont slip off or pinch the clutch cable (which fits between the two upper bunches of 2x4), grab a handful of front brake, and right the bike, leaning it to the right. i then reach down and flip up the hinged part, and set the bike down on it. voila, front wheel off the ground and scoot is level.

Be careful. this isn't for anyone who can't lean their bike over in a controlled way. its just a little thing i use to help with my bike work. Also, make SURE the jiffy stand is down all the way BEFORE you attempt to take the bike off of this stand.

Originally Posted by Slipstrm

Here is my Ignition switch relocation on an 07 FXD Dash.
1 7/8 holesaw is a perfect fit, didnt need drill press as the pilot bit kept it running straight and true.
purchased the switch at BK Riders $22 shipped.
Since my AME kit wont allow use of the fork lock, I am wiring the power thru the neck switch to allow me to kill power to the dash mounted switch for added security, when I turn the neck switch to the ACC position it will open the power circuit to the dash mounted switch and apply power to my alarm system. (cut the nub off the neck key and it will come out in any position).
About 2 hours to cut the hole and mount the switch.

Originally Posted by mudpuddle

Real clean execution Slip.

How's the switch attached?? Boltheads not visible on the topside.

Is it the flat piece shown in the underneath view?? (epoxied, or???)

mud
.

Originally Posted by Slipstrm

Switch is attached with small bolts to a piece of 1/8 in hard rubber mat, the mat is also sandwiched between the the bottom of the dash and the top of the Gas Gauge bezel using the two hex bolts that are visible from the topside.
The bolts that are visible from the bottom also act as standoffs to limit any movement of the switch vertically.

Originally Posted by stell55chevy

Slipstrm..... u said u can cut nub off of key to leave it in any position?! any pics of that? curious on how i can use that for my Superglide.