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Stage 1 - Lost Power! WTF?!

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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 03:06 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by robzuc97
I looked through waiting for but never did see what the AFR was? Should be 13.2-13.5 (for everyday cruising) from my vast experience (preference) at MMI dyno tuning. Sounds like the wrong AFR with the browning, but how long did it take for this to happen? A hour, day, week, month... year? Forget HP/Torque; what you want is a nice AFR across the board. AFR=HP/T! Shame on everyone who said "the tuner sucks!" without knowing what the AFR is (which would be the proof in the pudding to how good the tuner is). And if it came back lean, I still wouldn't dis them since the "customer" probably asked to wring out as much HP as possible meaning it needs to run LEAN. I notice that the lines of your runs are "squiggly": I prefer the SERT for cleaning up these using the VE Tables but that would only get you 2-5 extra HP. I'm not familiar with your device and if this is even possible (MMI teaches the SERT only). And... 33 runs to tune? Did a 2007 FXDWG in 2.5 hours with a SERT and that being overly persnickety with a friend's bike. The HP/T you got might be all the bike has to give with the foo-foo fish tail pipes; of course Rush will get you better numbers but were you expecting 100 HP? As far as the dyno numbers "changing": they didn't. A bike will dyno at one peak and then next hour or day or week, dyno at another peak. You will never get the same numbers. The word "peak" is the clue; peak means "the best run" out of all. The first two should be the best due to temperature increases from consecutive/back-to-back runs. My '01 XL1200C has a peak HP of 75 HP (with drag pipes) meaning, on my best (first) run, I ran a 75; the rest averaged 68. Of course, I tell people my peak is 75 and they still don't know WTF I'm talking about. NOTE: would also get a higher peak with some good performance pipes vice the drags! My '97 FLSTC ran peak at 60 HP with V&H but would run better with SE 2-1's. See? Both okay with me since I know my AFR is 13.2-13.5 on both bikes. Peak Hp is only good for bar bragging rights; it's how the bike is running (AFR) and the average HP/T (resulting from the AFR).
I picked the bike up from the tune on Saturday morning. I just received the files from the tune last night. I haven't had the chance to download the TTS Mastertune software in order to open those files.

The pipes had 20 miles on them when I brought it in for the tune and had browned during the tune.

My expectations weren't to set any hp / tq records with this set up but, I wasn't expecting numbers worse than stock either.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 03:50 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by robzuc97
I looked through waiting for but never did see what the AFR was? Should be 13.2-13.5 (for everyday cruising) from my vast experience (preference) at MMI dyno tuning. Sounds like the wrong AFR with the browning, but how long did it take for this to happen? A hour, day, week, month... year? Forget HP/Torque; what you want is a nice AFR across the board. AFR=HP/T! Shame on everyone who said "the tuner sucks!" without knowing what the AFR is (which would be the proof in the pudding to how good the tuner is). And if it came back lean, I still wouldn't dis them since the "customer" probably asked to wring out as much HP as possible meaning it needs to run LEAN. I notice that the lines of your runs are "squiggly": I prefer the SERT for cleaning up these using the VE Tables but that would only get you 2-5 extra HP. I'm not familiar with your device and if this is even possible (MMI teaches the SERT only). And... 33 runs to tune? Did a 2007 FXDWG in 2.5 hours with a SERT and that being overly persnickety with a friend's bike. The HP/T you got might be all the bike has to give with the foo-foo fish tail pipes; of course Rush will get you better numbers but were you expecting 100 HP? As far as the dyno numbers "changing": they didn't. A bike will dyno at one peak and then next hour or day or week, dyno at another peak. You will never get the same numbers. The word "peak" is the clue; peak means "the best run" out of all. The first two should be the best due to temperature increases from consecutive/back-to-back runs. My '01 XL1200C has a peak HP of 75 HP (with drag pipes) meaning, on my best (first) run, I ran a 75; the rest averaged 68. Of course, I tell people my peak is 75 and they still don't know WTF I'm talking about. NOTE: would also get a higher peak with some good performance pipes vice the drags! My '97 FLSTC ran peak at 60 HP with V&H but would run better with SE 2-1's. See? Both okay with me since I know my AFR is 13.2-13.5 on both bikes. Peak Hp is only good for bar bragging rights; it's how the bike is running (AFR) and the average HP/T (resulting from the AFR).


TTS is the company that made the SERT, the MasterTune software looks exactly like the SERT software, if you had them both up on 2 computers side by side you might not tell the difference for a few min....except the MasterTune software can do more than the SERT software.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 04:11 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by SUUIE
I picked the bike up from the tune on Saturday morning. I just received the files from the tune last night. I haven't had the chance to download the TTS Mastertune software in order to open those files.


I have the TTS software.
according to your sig, you should have map PZ176-000 loaded into your ECM...

PZ176-000: 2007 - 2009 Touring Exhaust with O2 sensors.
Configuration: 1580 A/C & Race Exhaust
Components:
25 Degree Injectors
Air Cleaner and Breather Kit
Race Exhaust



you might want to check that first.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 04:13 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by SUUIE
As a matter of fact, I received a call from the tuner, who was made aware of this thread, and am taking it back.
Well good. It sounds like there's probably just been a miscommunication or something to that effect. Geoff seemed like a really nice guy when I used them for my bike. Take it in and let us know what the final outcome is? And good luck!
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 06:01 AM
  #45  
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when i went to get dyano tune it took 6 hours and 70 pass to get the number i got afm is 13.28 to 1 i gain a lot of power and throtter reposend greatter aprove i can pull the front wheel of the ground on my 07 cvo 110 ultra glide my buddy 08 road glide w 103 kit was have problems so he went to get it tune made a big drifferts. it take a min of 5hr to do the job it cost a flat rate of 400.00 in fla to do this. most of you dyano tune people will not put the time in. good luck finding soboby who known what they are doing.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 07:46 AM
  #46  
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my dyno tune took 2.5 hr but they plan for 4 just in case. they had one that took 6 hr but that was not normal
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 08:49 AM
  #47  
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They charge extra if you try and help!
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 07:39 PM
  #48  
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I received 5 files from my tuner. I was able to open 4 of them. They all reference PZ176-000-A1.MT7 that Deuce Bigelow mentioned above. I sent them to tk353 hoping that he'll be kind enough to post these up for me as well.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 07:50 PM
  #49  
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here they are, if I understand these charts the tune was for closed loop and the relies on the narrowband 02 sensors. seems to me a dyno tune would involve multiple settings and running in open loop only like pcIII. but i dont know about tuning a TTS.
 
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Last edited by tk353; Mar 4, 2009 at 07:55 PM.
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 08:28 PM
  #50  
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Changing intake, exhaust or both your gonna be leaner, thus the pipes turnin rainbow.
 
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