Edit to add: bike is 2015 Street Glide Special.

Install phase one: BT4180, two 7.1 fairing speakers
Install step two: Hogtune lids and Arc Moto 692s.

I've read quite a few threads and have taken away tips from every one, or so it seems. I'm going to list the steps of my ongoing installation in the most basic format. I'm pretty much a novice, turned wrenches in the Army for many years but we didn't have audio in the tracked vehicles.

I picked a week with a lot of rain and plan to take it slow, I tend to screw things up when I rush.

Stuff I picked up:

7/16 flex head ratchet, like this but from Lowes:
Backer rod:
Speaker wire, connectors.

Already done:

Removed seat.

Disconnected battery, the simplest thing like the ECM caddy on top of the battery took a bit of wrangling. The dude on Youtube popped his right out, I removed the two rear bolts and struggled to get the stupid thing out from under the rubber boot/bracket along the front of the battery.

Took off console on top of gas tank, no issues at all.

Removed fuel line quick disconnect, did not follow the steps in the service manual to run fuel out of line/relieve pressure. As stated elsewhere on the forum, very little gas came out and was caught with a rag.

Unbolted two front and two rear tank bolts. Even though I was down to half a tank, I used a helper to take the tank off and set on a soft mat. Could have been done with one, but I like safe.

Removed fairing, loosened four rear torx screws, removed windshield, replaced long middle windshield screw; removed four rear screws. Here I wondered if I had enough room to reach in and disconnect headlight without removing aux lights (service manual recommends). Got my helper, removed the top screw and had enough room to unplug the light (whew).

Removed left pod. Same as others, many torx screws, allen screws and three 7/16 hex head bolts on lower inside. I'm happily surprised (I think) that HD doesn't use loctite on these. I was able to use my socket on two, and a flex head 7/16 ratchet on the third bolt. Was able to spin off pretty easily by hand once loose.

I noticed the pods add some stability, so I plan to drill an extra hole, and use a spacer and bolt as outlined in this thread: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/audio...errerid=210973

Here is where we are:

 

Looks good so far but there's no need to remove the console on the tank. Sounds like you've done good homework so things should go together nicely.

 

Console removal not necessary...battery tray has a hook on the front that catches lower down and is hard to see. 3/8 backer rod is too small..i did the same thing, and found i need 5/8 at least. Wanted 3/4, but couldnt find at 2 lowes. Wound up using 3/4 flat foam weatherstrip with a tacky side. I did not drill the extra hole for a brace on each side, but probably should have, and may still do so.

 

Guess I did extra work on the console.

Thanks for the tip, just ordered some 3/4 ' backer rod. Guess if I go big I can always trim back.

 

I removed my tank yesterday (other reasons) and found the tank vent line easier to unplug from under the console instead of snipping zip ties and having to re-route later. Much easier removing the console on the limited vs the wide glide

 

is the extra bolt a must ,does fairing fit better or just more stable,thanks

 

If fit perfect for me without adding anything.

T.

 

Okay I'm a little stumped. Got the other pod out, bolted on the BT plate and started wiring. Pardon the mess I still need to look at others pics for ideas on organizing...

What am I missing on the rear line leveler? Is there a jack from the amp tucked away someplace or how is it wired in? I'm looking for a rear output from the HU, or will that only be available after I have the HU flashed for a fader. Thanks!

 

should be a connector with plug in it just little lower then you have your bt plug ,just take plug out and plug in LL

 

That plug is for the Rushmore Roadglide rear speakers. The Limited and SG need either the break out harness or cut the wires for the rear speakers and splice in to the LL