When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just my 2 cents. A system that can be heard clearly and loud on a sled is very obtainable in the 600 range. Now that being said.....most people say they want a cheap setup that is clear and loud but really none of us know what we want till we have it lol. I think the reason most people just bite the bullet and spend the cash on top tier stuff is because they don't want to risk being disappointed and wind up spending more dangerous money. At least that's how I looked at it when I started. But again that is just my 2 cents.
Correct its not close. its louder in a IMHO. Think about it, air is going into the car, around pillars and then recirculated through out the car. On the sleds it simply just goes pass you. I am very confident I can have a loud and clear sled and not break 500 on equipment. Right now I am just trying to decide speakers but it seems most guy on here are running top tier lines that my budget isn't supporting.
inside a vehicle has several factors that play into the sound. Regardless of the windows open or not your sound still bounces and reverbs of all the surfaces. On a bike there is nothing but sheer power needed to create the sound many of us want. No different than going to a concert outside.
A 500.00 system won't project sound with the same quality as spending more. BUT if the system sounds good to you then spending more than 500.00 is senseless.
It's all what sounds good to you buddy. In my case I love the high quality of the sound at 70mph. And yes, at 70mph my quality of sound will greatly differ than someone else's that has spent significantly less. NOT THAT THIS MAKE MINE ANY BETTER, LOL.
From: Fairview, Tn ........Currently abroad in South Korea
I am not trolling by any means Haze. I am not guessing for the most part. Clearly by my sig I do not have a fairing installed yet. I am waiting on it to get here. I am going off what I have experienced so far clearly experiences vary person to person. Tailwind when was the last time you got a sedan up 90mph with windows down? if its been a decade then sit down. My ears may very well be jack up from rockets and rotor blades but according to some tech the army has my hearing is outstanding considering all that. I am actually going with the polks for my sled and a precision power amp coming from a Jvc deck. Tesnevo glad you saw more of what I was trying cover in regards to all the surfaces that break the winds direction and yes as you point out effect sound as well. Baddazzbikes thanks for your 2 cents. Yank thanks for yours as well. I was looking at one of those amps before finally settling on the precision power.
From: Fairview, Tn ........Currently abroad in South Korea
Originally Posted by Tailwind
As long as u keep comparing sled audio to some sedan rolling down the road at 90 with the windows open, ur gonna be deep deep in the weeds man.
Good luck with ur sled audio, and I do mean that as I come here to learn and also help others as a result of my lessons learned.
T.
As I have seen from a good number of your post. Thank you for that support. I am sure I have a ton to learn when it comes to sled audio and I honestly can't wait.
My suggestion is to buy quality components used to save some money. I know this is over your budget, but just meant as an example. I have Hertz HSK165 component speakers powered by Rockford Fosgate TX400 watt amp. I think it sounds amazing! $350 shipped for speakers that at the time retailed for $500. RF amp retailed $500, and paid $300 shipped. Somebody is always upgrading. JMO As far as components or coax, I prefer components but I don't think it matters much. I know you will find a high quality coax cheaper than a high quality component speaker. I think the question is...do you want to give up two gauges or cut holes in your inner fairing for separate tweeters?
Last edited by BaggerBill103; Aug 30, 2016 at 10:40 AM.
I think the question is...do you want to give up two gauges or cut holes in your inner fairing for separate tweeters?
No real need to cut holes in your fairing or give up gauges. Stop by Home Depot and buy a Milwaukee Tools drill bit the exact same size as your tweet backing and drill the hole in your grills. Couple dabs of clear caulk, if the tweet does not have securing hardware, and ur rolling down the road.
No real need to cut holes in your fairing or give up gauges. Stop by Home Depot and buy a Milwaukee Tools drill bit the exact same size as your tweet backing and drill the hole in your grills. Couple dabs of clear caulk, if the tweet does not have securing hardware, and ur rolling down the road.
T.
Ill take that a little further
Buy these 6.5 Grills that come apart
Custom cut them to fit behind your fairing and then cut out the center like TW mentioned
$14 invested http://www.ebay.com/itm/151700030768...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.