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Old Oct 6, 2017 | 09:00 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Kawickrice
Please school me on this. If I bridge the 400/4 to 200 watts per channel how would this not be near max power weather it be a car or a bike? Why would a car need 4ga and a bike 8ga? I'm here to learn.
Distance traveled from the battery to the amp is the main difference.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2017 | 09:28 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Kawickrice
Please school me on this. If I bridge the 400/4 to 200 watts per channel how would this not be near max power weather it be a car or a bike? Why would a car need 4ga and a bike 8ga? I'm here to learn.
Technically it's 100 watts RMS x 4 = 400 watts divided by 13.8. That number plus the distance from your battery to the amp determines your gauge. Obviously the distance from a car battery to the amp is going to be longer than a motorcycle. Now. Practically if you have ever tried to run 4 gauge wire or 0 gauge wire under you gas tank. It's a nightmare!! 8 gauge or 10 gauge is perfect for most applications on a bike unless you have an amp that's producing 400 watts per channel. In simple terms it's watts per channel and distance.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2017 | 10:14 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by tj3633
I just picked up a 2018 SGS and the audio just sucks. I am usually cruising in the 70-80mph range. A little help for a good to great sounding 2 speaker setup would really be appreciated. I have no real interest in adding lowers or lids. I really want the best audio I can achieve with just the fairing speakers within reason. I am setting my budget cap at 2k give or take a few bucks. I will do the work my self. I would prefer as little modification as possible. I am keeping the stock head unit. And I would like to not have interference with the FM. Not that I really listen to FM but it is there and I would like for it to function correctly. For fairing mods so far I have relocated the antenna to the fairing, added the xm/ sirius module (which I use most of the time), replaced the fairing power port with a cigarette lighter, and replaced the headlight with a jw speaker. From my research which is all over the place by the way, and somewhat outdated it seems. The choices are to buy a kit from a known vendor which utilizes line levelers or radio flashes, or piece together a kit and flashing the radio or line levelers. So which kit does not screw up the FM and sounds great? Or which recommended speakers and amps sound great without screwing up the FM? Radio flash or line levelers sound best? Or both flash and line levelers? Best place to get the radio flashed if that is best? I am in South East Virginia. Shipping back and forth works too.




TJ, I'm a little late to the show here, but I gotta say this is one of the very best requests for info/help I have ever read. You covered it all brother!! If there was a thread for "How to ask for input" This would for sure be the template. Glad to see the guys have already helped out, please report back with your finished product info.
Kris
 
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Old Oct 6, 2017 | 10:49 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by BlackPearl#1
TJ, I'm a little late to the show here, but I gotta say this is one of the very best requests for info/help I have ever read. You covered it all brother!! If there was a thread for "How to ask for input" This would for sure be the template. Glad to see the guys have already helped out, please report back with your finished product info.
Kris
I agree Kris! Really good post! I was hooked at the "Audio just sucks" part! LOL!!
 
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Old Oct 7, 2017 | 09:04 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Kawickrice
Please school me on this. If I bridge the 400/4 to 200 watts per channel how would this not be near max power weather it be a car or a bike? Why would a car need 4ga and a bike 8ga? I'm here to learn.
that amp is perfectly fine to run at rated max as it is surely underated
wire guage is determined by amperage draw AND length of wire. a bike amp is gonna be within 6' of battery, a car amp could possibly mount in trunk, thereby carrying current much farther
 
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Old Oct 9, 2017 | 12:47 AM
  #26  
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I ordered everything that was recommended. Except, I went with a jl 400/4 marine and rca cables. I’ll be using planet wave cables since I use those already for my line of work. It should all be here this week. And I’m hoping to have it installed before the weekend. Anyone have mounting picks of a jl 600/4 in the fairing?
 
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Old Oct 9, 2017 | 08:37 AM
  #27  
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Not sure if anyone here is running the 600/4 but quite a few guys have the Hertz HDP4 or the Soundstream TN4.900 that is very similar in size. I'd have to look at the specs but it could be close.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2017 | 11:11 PM
  #28  
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Install done. Sounds good.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 05:40 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BaggerAudioLab
Not sure if anyone here is running the 600/4 but quite a few guys have the Hertz HDP4 or the Soundstream TN4.900 that is very similar in size. I'd have to look at the specs but it could be close.
Alex, if it's any wider or taller than the TN900.4D then I would say it's a no go. My TN900.4D is pushed back against the gages and slightly pushes into the Dynamat on the front corners. Fairing is a "tight" but not "forced" fit.
 
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