2016 SGS Audio help needed
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2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2018
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From: 02825
2016 SGS Audio help needed
Hi There,
I am new here. I have a 2016 SGS. Last year I installed a RF PBR 300x2 and Infinity Kappa 62.11 in the fairing which was never very impressive. I am now looking to do some major changes to the bike and scrap all of that. I am looking for recommendations on a 4 channel amp, Lid Speakers and fairing speakers. Also will I have to flash the system (?) and what about those levelers (?) I am an electrician by trade and understand the ins and outs but I will also need to know the type of wire to use (flexibility and disconnects) to hit the rear speakers whereas there is no wire there now. I am sure someone makes the harnesses.
Any help would be terrific.
I am new here. I have a 2016 SGS. Last year I installed a RF PBR 300x2 and Infinity Kappa 62.11 in the fairing which was never very impressive. I am now looking to do some major changes to the bike and scrap all of that. I am looking for recommendations on a 4 channel amp, Lid Speakers and fairing speakers. Also will I have to flash the system (?) and what about those levelers (?) I am an electrician by trade and understand the ins and outs but I will also need to know the type of wire to use (flexibility and disconnects) to hit the rear speakers whereas there is no wire there now. I am sure someone makes the harnesses.
Any help would be terrific.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 3,368
Likes: 689
From: indiana
Smart move to scrap the pbr amp. The first thing you will need is 1 or 2 bt 355 line levelers if you are keeping the stock head unit. If you have fade control on your hu then you will need 2 LL, one for the front and one for the rear. As far as rear lids go, it is hard to beat the Rockford fosgate rear lid kit. It comes with all the wiring and even though the speakers don't look like much, they sound good, can be heard at speed and are waterproof. For a 4 channel amp, it is hard to beat the stinger spx 700/4 as it is loud, easy to install and warm. Speakers are a personal preference and if keeping the fairing pods, then most will require the pods to be modified to fit a good speaker. For coax I like the hertz hcx 165's but there are a lot of different 6.5's out there and listening preference is different for everyone.
Just my thoughts.
Just my thoughts.
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2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2018
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From: 02825
good info
Thanks, that is a bit to take in. I am going to go with Baddad lids I think so they will be cut out. However I can still go with the speakers you suggest of course. How about the flashing? I have been told it is not needed. If it was needed, is that a DIY or dealer only deal?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 3,368
Likes: 689
From: indiana
Thanks, that is a bit to take in. I am going to go with Baddad lids I think so they will be cut out. However I can still go with the speakers you suggest of course. How about the flashing? I have been told it is not needed. If it was needed, is that a DIY or dealer only deal?
I have had multiple flashes done on my head unit and can tell you that the best sq from the boom HU is the 0amp/4 channel flash. That will provide you fade control. With that flash, you will need 2 line levelers or a dsp and unless you are going pro audio or more than 4 channels, the line levelers will provide you the SQ you are looking as tuning a dsp takes some learning. The reason I suggested the RF lid kit is you don't need to have any painting done on your lids and all the wiring comes with it including quick connects for the bags. The template that comes with that kit makes it very easy to cut your lids and no worries about fit and finish with aftermarket lids.
For flashing that is a dealer item needed and if you have them flash it for the 0 amp/ 4 channel, tell them that you are going to add a boom tour pack because they wont flash it if they know you are using aftermarket equipment. If you don't want fade control, then you don't need any flashing done and only need the front line leveler.
Last edited by travelingypsye; Nov 8, 2018 at 06:23 AM.
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2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2018
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From: 02825
good info for sure
Hi there,
I am not much of an audio expert so I will need to hit the google machine to understand all you wrote
Actually those lid kits look pissah, but I am selling off my custom factory paint set and putting on all different stuff, so painting the lids is not an issue. Is the flash a DYI download or do I need special software? I will only be 4 channels in the end
I am not much of an audio expert so I will need to hit the google machine to understand all you wrote
Actually those lid kits look pissah, but I am selling off my custom factory paint set and putting on all different stuff, so painting the lids is not an issue. Is the flash a DYI download or do I need special software? I will only be 4 channels in the end
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 3,368
Likes: 689
From: indiana
Ok let try to explain. The Harley boom head unit has a drastic eq curve to help it sound better while running down the road. When aftermarket amp and speakers are installed, the head unit eq curve is so drastic it can cause an overload on the amp especially on low frequencies and can cause so much distortion it can blow amps or speakers. Harmon Kardon designed this to help the stock head unit provide a better sound whil riding at speed. The line leveler is designed to do as the name states, level out that signal so aftermarket amps/ speakers don't blow. I believe this was Harleys attempt to ensure that no aftermarket equipment would be installed on the boom system. Even if you add a Harley amp, the dealer needs to flash that head unit so it doesn't blow the Harley amps. You can not flash the head unit yourself as the program is needed to do so and that tool is $1500 or so. Your dealership has that program so they can flash your head unit when THEY add an amp or more speakers. Again, if you don't need a fade from front to rear from your head unit, then you don't need and flash from the dealer. Hope that makes since.
Last edited by travelingypsye; Nov 8, 2018 at 07:33 AM.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 738
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From: Smithfield, VA
Hi there,
I am not much of an audio expert so I will need to hit the google machine to understand all you wrote Actually those lid kits look pissah, but I am selling off my custom factory paint set and putting on all different stuff, so painting the lids is not an issue. Is the flash a DYI download or do I need special software? I will only be 4 channels in the end
I am not much of an audio expert so I will need to hit the google machine to understand all you wrote
Actually those lid kits look pissah, but I am selling off my custom factory paint set and putting on all different stuff, so painting the lids is not an issue. Is the flash a DYI download or do I need special software? I will only be 4 channels in the endIf you dont care about fading from front to back with the head unit then you dont need any flash at all and just one BT-355 line leveler. You can use RCA y splitters to use output from the line leveler for both the front and rear inputs on your amp. Some amps have a 2/4 channel switch that let you use one set of inputs for all 4 outputs. In that case you dont need y splitters. Just a good set of RCA cables.
If you want to have fade capability you need the stock ultra 4 channel/0 amp flash to turn on the rear speaker outputs. Before you install, go to your HD dealer and tell him you are adding a TP with speaker pods and want to turn on the rear outputs from the radio. Then you will need 2 line levelers, on for the front speaker outputs and one for the rear speaker outputs and two sets of RCA cables.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 185
From: Fond du Lac WI
Ok first of all now that you are probably confused because everyone
is throwing around the flash word let’s start again. We know you want fairing
speaks and lids. What’s your budget? While the Rockford kit may be nice I would suggest doing some
DD audio VO 6x9 and you’ll be real happy wit that and only do it once back there.
Fronts there’s many options depends on if you want to go coaxial or proaudio. The stinger amp is nice and should provide
what you need for a 4 speaker set up. Get the line leveler and skip the flash unless you really want the fade option otherwise
you can go really advanced and get a Digital processor. Clear as mud right
is throwing around the flash word let’s start again. We know you want fairing
speaks and lids. What’s your budget? While the Rockford kit may be nice I would suggest doing some
DD audio VO 6x9 and you’ll be real happy wit that and only do it once back there.
Fronts there’s many options depends on if you want to go coaxial or proaudio. The stinger amp is nice and should provide
what you need for a 4 speaker set up. Get the line leveler and skip the flash unless you really want the fade option otherwise
you can go really advanced and get a Digital processor. Clear as mud right
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 1,832
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From: Indiana
Originally Posted by travelingypsye
For flashing that is a dealer item needed and if you have them flash it for the 0 amp/ 4 channel, tell them that you are going to add a boom tour pack because they wont flash it if they know you are using aftermarket equipment. If you don't want fade control, then you don't need any flashing done and only need the front line leveler.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 3,704
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From: Southern Virginia
I will throw out something I learned when I started tinkering with this stuff.
You need to ask yourself do you want to listen to the rears balanced out with the front speakers yourself or do you just want rear speakers so your passenger can hear the music? If YOU want to listen to the rear speakers so that you are sitting in the middle of the sound then you really need the fade control to work. When you get the levels set so it sounds good sitting still you will not be able to hear the rears at all going down the road. You will need the ability to lower the output to the front speakers so that when you turn the volume up the rears are louder than the fronts to give you that center of the audio stage experience so to speak. I find sometimes that different input sources may require moving the fader a notch to bring the sound back into balance.
Hope that helps you decide.
You need to ask yourself do you want to listen to the rears balanced out with the front speakers yourself or do you just want rear speakers so your passenger can hear the music? If YOU want to listen to the rear speakers so that you are sitting in the middle of the sound then you really need the fade control to work. When you get the levels set so it sounds good sitting still you will not be able to hear the rears at all going down the road. You will need the ability to lower the output to the front speakers so that when you turn the volume up the rears are louder than the fronts to give you that center of the audio stage experience so to speak. I find sometimes that different input sources may require moving the fader a notch to bring the sound back into balance.
Hope that helps you decide.