Dsr1
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 482
Likes: 14
From: Detroit
I dont have a factory head unit so I wasnt sure if I should use their download or not.
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 129
Likes: 15
From: Cincinnati
Outstanding, glad you got it the way you wanted it. I am still playing with the app to try to understand it b4 I put it back on my bike. I had it on there b4 , and sound like crap. I set my gains with DD-1 and have my frequency at about 80hz. So I have to go back in and change it to the lowest sitting?
Last edited by bdrummer0413; Apr 21, 2019 at 08:17 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 6,446
Likes: 873
From: TEXAS
Originally Posted by Houston_t
T
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 303
Likes: 17
From: alabama
On mine I am using band pass on the mids and high pass on the upper faring and rears. The mids are in the lower faring. I set the crossover based on the speaker specs but if you think 80 is best I will try that also. 
Thanks either way right now sounds awsome. Again always tweaking
Thanks either way right now sounds awsome. Again always tweakingFirst I'm not a audio tech and the information I do have is from guys like you and you tube. We all are chasing the same sound ( the best sound for you ) I read all kinds of audio post in this forum. some really works for me and some don't. I will try to explain what I have done to my RGS 2016 and what I have on it and how it is connected and maybe I can understand it better.
1. Sony ax5000; I have everything flat and the crossovers off. EQ is off. The front RCA is connected to the Arc and the rear RCA is connected to the NVX- VAD 1000.4
2 Arc 600.4; Frequency on ch 1,2,3,4, are set to 90 Hz. Gains was set with DD-1 track # 4, 1KHZ output is on high and 4 ch stereo. input is set to 2ch.
3 Ch 1 and CH 2 on the amp is powering the JL C2-650 (6.5)in the fairing
4 CH 3 and 4 rear is powering a set of , the rockville RM64Pro midbass speakers( 6.5) in the lower fairing and a set of 602 in the TP wired in parallel .
Amp #2 in TP
NVX-VAD 1000.4
5 Connected to HU on rear RCA output with two Y jacks at the amp to connect the front and rear output on the amp.
6 Frequency is set to about 90 Hz and gains set with DD-1
7. JL 6x9 C2-690xt in the lids are connect to the front input on the amp and the same type speakers are connected to rear input inside the bags.
If there is any thing wrong with this set, please let me know. I tried to follow along with the instructions on American hardbags, before I could set the RSD1 up I needed to know what setting I needed to put the amps itself on. I have read different feedback, but haven't seen anything from Rockford or youtube on that matter. Then when it comes to the RSD1 itself, I setup on the updates on it and the software, Picked all the speakers I have in the configuration they are in, So maybe somebody could explain Kindly to me what I am not getting and the correct way of doing it?
thanks
Last edited by Eric Steward; Apr 21, 2019 at 11:37 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 6,446
Likes: 873
From: TEXAS
Happy Easter Eric.
I'm running the Boom HU but essentially we are using the same HU strategy in that all of those setting are neutral and the tuning will take place via the DSP.
I would run ur amp at all pass / full pass which is also a neutral setting thus crossovers will be managed by the DSP.
Set the gains as u did in order to identify the max clean signal, then mark the max clean gains on that amp with a pencil, sharpie, etc. Then bring the gains to about 1/2 of the identified max. U will fine tune later.
Set ALL ur speaker crossovers up individually using bandpass and referencing the speaker specs but on a sled probably never lower than 75 Hz for the high pass. Example, ur JL C2650 have freq specs of 59-22000 thus I would start setting the bandpass crossovers at 80-85 and also at 16k to 17k. Those speakers distort early when the play below 80 and on the high side the human ear won't typically hear above 15k to 17k so set it up accordingly. Set ur EQs to zero and Qs at one or less. Prob start with ur slopes at 24 going in and rolling off at 12 for this speaker. Then isolate those speaker, play ur favorite song at 3/4 volume and re-set the amp gains by ear accordingly, not to exceed the marks on the amp nor the first sign of potential distortion.
Now ur gonna simply fine tune and fine tune the EQs, Qs, gains & crossovers to get ur ears and the speakers playing very well in that specific sandbox.
This is a very cave man approach to shaping the sand box brother and just one opinion out of hundreds of thousands but it's a safe approach more than anything. Continue to learn as u go and get more aggressive as u learn.
On the rear channels I would parallel the Rocks on 5 and the 602s on 6 so u can unlink them and tune them individually accordingly to their specs and characteristics.
Master gains can also be adjusted to get ur speakers all in balance should the rears play louder than the fairing or the lowers taking over the entire setup. If u have floor noise with the volume low, it's probably cause ur amp gains are too high and the DSP is having to hide that shix thus the floor hum.
Repeat for each set of speakers specifically using their own specs.
Enjoy the process brother. There is soo much that goes into tuning so keep a keen ear out and continue to tinker as desired, but stay in the speakers intended sandbox.
And make sure the battery is on a charger throughout this entire process and save ur settings as u progress.
2 cents.
T
I'm running the Boom HU but essentially we are using the same HU strategy in that all of those setting are neutral and the tuning will take place via the DSP.
I would run ur amp at all pass / full pass which is also a neutral setting thus crossovers will be managed by the DSP.
Set the gains as u did in order to identify the max clean signal, then mark the max clean gains on that amp with a pencil, sharpie, etc. Then bring the gains to about 1/2 of the identified max. U will fine tune later.
Set ALL ur speaker crossovers up individually using bandpass and referencing the speaker specs but on a sled probably never lower than 75 Hz for the high pass. Example, ur JL C2650 have freq specs of 59-22000 thus I would start setting the bandpass crossovers at 80-85 and also at 16k to 17k. Those speakers distort early when the play below 80 and on the high side the human ear won't typically hear above 15k to 17k so set it up accordingly. Set ur EQs to zero and Qs at one or less. Prob start with ur slopes at 24 going in and rolling off at 12 for this speaker. Then isolate those speaker, play ur favorite song at 3/4 volume and re-set the amp gains by ear accordingly, not to exceed the marks on the amp nor the first sign of potential distortion.
Now ur gonna simply fine tune and fine tune the EQs, Qs, gains & crossovers to get ur ears and the speakers playing very well in that specific sandbox.
This is a very cave man approach to shaping the sand box brother and just one opinion out of hundreds of thousands but it's a safe approach more than anything. Continue to learn as u go and get more aggressive as u learn.
On the rear channels I would parallel the Rocks on 5 and the 602s on 6 so u can unlink them and tune them individually accordingly to their specs and characteristics.
Master gains can also be adjusted to get ur speakers all in balance should the rears play louder than the fairing or the lowers taking over the entire setup. If u have floor noise with the volume low, it's probably cause ur amp gains are too high and the DSP is having to hide that shix thus the floor hum.
Repeat for each set of speakers specifically using their own specs.
Enjoy the process brother. There is soo much that goes into tuning so keep a keen ear out and continue to tinker as desired, but stay in the speakers intended sandbox.
And make sure the battery is on a charger throughout this entire process and save ur settings as u progress.
2 cents.
T
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 303
Likes: 17
From: alabama
Happy Easter Eric.
I'm running the Boom HU but essentially we are using the same HU strategy in that all of those setting are neutral and the tuning will take place via the DSP.
I would run ur amp at all pass / full pass which is also a neutral setting thus crossovers will be managed by the DSP.
Set the gains as u did in order to identify the max clean signal, then mark the max clean gains on that amp with a pencil, sharpie, etc. Then bring the gains to about 1/2 of the identified max. U will fine tune later.
Set ALL ur speaker crossovers up individually using bandpass and referencing the speaker specs but on a sled probably never lower than 75 Hz for the high pass. Example, ur JL C2650 have freq specs of 59-22000 thus I would start setting the bandpass crossovers at 80-85 and also at 16k to 17k. Those speakers distort early when the play below 80 and on the high side the human ear won't typically hear above 15k to 17k so set it up accordingly. Set ur EQs to zero and Qs at one or less. Prob start with ur slopes at 24 going in and rolling off at 12 for this speaker. Then isolate those speaker, play ur favorite song at 3/4 volume and re-set the amp gains by ear accordingly, not to exceed the marks on the amp nor the first sign of potential distortion.
Now ur gonna simply fine tune and fine tune the EQs, Qs, gains & crossovers to get ur ears and the speakers playing very well in that specific sandbox.
This is a very cave man approach to shaping the sand box brother and just one opinion out of hundreds of thousands but it's a safe approach more than anything. Continue to learn as u go and get more aggressive as u learn.
On the rear channels I would parallel the Rocks on 5 and the 602s on 6 so u can unlink them and tune them individually accordingly to their specs and characteristics.
Master gains can also be adjusted to get ur speakers all in balance should the rears play louder than the fairing or the lowers taking over the entire setup. If u have floor noise with the volume low, it's probably cause ur amp gains are too high and the DSP is having to hide that shix thus the floor hum.
Repeat for each set of speakers specifically using their own specs.
Enjoy the process brother. There is soo much that goes into tuning so keep a keen ear out and continue to tinker as desired, but stay in the speakers intended sandbox.
And make sure the battery is on a charger throughout this entire process and save ur settings as u progress.
2 cents.
T
I'm running the Boom HU but essentially we are using the same HU strategy in that all of those setting are neutral and the tuning will take place via the DSP.
I would run ur amp at all pass / full pass which is also a neutral setting thus crossovers will be managed by the DSP.
Set the gains as u did in order to identify the max clean signal, then mark the max clean gains on that amp with a pencil, sharpie, etc. Then bring the gains to about 1/2 of the identified max. U will fine tune later.
Set ALL ur speaker crossovers up individually using bandpass and referencing the speaker specs but on a sled probably never lower than 75 Hz for the high pass. Example, ur JL C2650 have freq specs of 59-22000 thus I would start setting the bandpass crossovers at 80-85 and also at 16k to 17k. Those speakers distort early when the play below 80 and on the high side the human ear won't typically hear above 15k to 17k so set it up accordingly. Set ur EQs to zero and Qs at one or less. Prob start with ur slopes at 24 going in and rolling off at 12 for this speaker. Then isolate those speaker, play ur favorite song at 3/4 volume and re-set the amp gains by ear accordingly, not to exceed the marks on the amp nor the first sign of potential distortion.
Now ur gonna simply fine tune and fine tune the EQs, Qs, gains & crossovers to get ur ears and the speakers playing very well in that specific sandbox.
This is a very cave man approach to shaping the sand box brother and just one opinion out of hundreds of thousands but it's a safe approach more than anything. Continue to learn as u go and get more aggressive as u learn.
On the rear channels I would parallel the Rocks on 5 and the 602s on 6 so u can unlink them and tune them individually accordingly to their specs and characteristics.
Master gains can also be adjusted to get ur speakers all in balance should the rears play louder than the fairing or the lowers taking over the entire setup. If u have floor noise with the volume low, it's probably cause ur amp gains are too high and the DSP is having to hide that shix thus the floor hum.
Repeat for each set of speakers specifically using their own specs.
Enjoy the process brother. There is soo much that goes into tuning so keep a keen ear out and continue to tinker as desired, but stay in the speakers intended sandbox.
And make sure the battery is on a charger throughout this entire process and save ur settings as u progress.
2 cents.
T
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 303
Likes: 17
From: alabama
Good evening Gentlemen,
Just wanted to give everybody an update on my project,
Well, I did (tried) to do everything Tailwind said but I still couldn't get this thing right. I end up calling RF and the tech told me this " We get a ton of calls from guys that have bikes trying to install this device on their bikes, They were really made for cars with factory HU" In his defends he did say it will work, but the programming is not for the average user and audio shops are just really selling this products like they are for bikes. He said a lot of people don't understand the advanced setting on the unit. After he said that it kinda make sense.
I think I was running a different app from everybody else, or the app is different between apple and android. My display don't look like anything I seen anywhere .I can't never get the right channel speakers to play. I did the wizard and picked the configuration, but when I tried to trim the other speakers. After about 2 hours and the call to RF, I came in the house, get on my computer and printed a return label. It is at the USPS....... Oh, He also said have to watch them guys in those forums(??????). I said I learned a lot in them. but anyway, does anybody know of that DSP that could fix ( 2 amp) .
Just wanted to give everybody an update on my project,
Well, I did (tried) to do everything Tailwind said but I still couldn't get this thing right. I end up calling RF and the tech told me this " We get a ton of calls from guys that have bikes trying to install this device on their bikes, They were really made for cars with factory HU" In his defends he did say it will work, but the programming is not for the average user and audio shops are just really selling this products like they are for bikes. He said a lot of people don't understand the advanced setting on the unit. After he said that it kinda make sense.
I think I was running a different app from everybody else, or the app is different between apple and android. My display don't look like anything I seen anywhere .I can't never get the right channel speakers to play. I did the wizard and picked the configuration, but when I tried to trim the other speakers. After about 2 hours and the call to RF, I came in the house, get on my computer and printed a return label. It is at the USPS....... Oh, He also said have to watch them guys in those forums(??????). I said I learned a lot in them. but anyway, does anybody know of that DSP that could fix ( 2 amp) .
Road Captain
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 668
Likes: 72
From: Wisconsin
Wow
Good evening Gentlemen,
Just wanted to give everybody an update on my project,
Well, I did (tried) to do everything Tailwind said but I still couldn't get this thing right. I end up calling RF and the tech told me this " We get a ton of calls from guys that have bikes trying to install this device on their bikes, They were really made for cars with factory HU" In his defends he did say it will work, but the programming is not for the average user and audio shops are just really selling this products like they are for bikes. He said a lot of people don't understand the advanced setting on the unit. After he said that it kinda make sense.
I think I was running a different app from everybody else, or the app is different between apple and android. My display don't look like anything I seen anywhere .I can't never get the right channel speakers to play. I did the wizard and picked the configuration, but when I tried to trim the other speakers. After about 2 hours and the call to RF, I came in the house, get on my computer and printed a return label. It is at the USPS....... Oh, He also said have to watch them guys in those forums(??????). I said I learned a lot in them. but anyway, does anybody know of that DSP that could fix ( 2 amp) .
Just wanted to give everybody an update on my project,
Well, I did (tried) to do everything Tailwind said but I still couldn't get this thing right. I end up calling RF and the tech told me this " We get a ton of calls from guys that have bikes trying to install this device on their bikes, They were really made for cars with factory HU" In his defends he did say it will work, but the programming is not for the average user and audio shops are just really selling this products like they are for bikes. He said a lot of people don't understand the advanced setting on the unit. After he said that it kinda make sense.
I think I was running a different app from everybody else, or the app is different between apple and android. My display don't look like anything I seen anywhere .I can't never get the right channel speakers to play. I did the wizard and picked the configuration, but when I tried to trim the other speakers. After about 2 hours and the call to RF, I came in the house, get on my computer and printed a return label. It is at the USPS....... Oh, He also said have to watch them guys in those forums(??????). I said I learned a lot in them. but anyway, does anybody know of that DSP that could fix ( 2 amp) .