Input voltage is signal source, not battery. So the voltage coming out of the radio into the DSP, and then going to the amps. Other DSP's have an input voltage setting so you can match the source signal voltage going into the DSP to what is coming out of the DSP. The 4/0 flash is a very crappy sounding signal with boosted voltage and will make tuning your bike with a DSP challenging at best.

 

I know that there are other flashes that would be better. 6/2? But, until this "crisis" is over and places start running again, I"m stuck with what I have.
Being the audio dummy, can I assume that by pulling the rca inputs I'd be able to measure the voltage from the radio? I am running from the molex (factory) to vtwin audio cables to rca inputs.

 

Alex, or anybody that knows and/or help.
In the OP's pictures posted you have on the bottom left a "Volume". Each channel has a vertical slide bar with db, OP's are set at 0db.

Could you explain how these should be set in relation to each other. Why should adjustments be made to each one and the reason for.

Im still learning on my DSP and I will for a long time! Id really like to be looking over watching a bike getting tuned to learn how to do it. Not looking to make any money tuning that's for sure. Just want to gain some knowledge for future modifications

 

Until you start moving the sliders yourself and hearing what that does you won’t understand. Seriously play around with the program and see what your ears pick up from doing it.

 

The individual channel ones I have moved, the one all the way on the left I have not. The channel sliders lower or raise the volume, so more or less volts going out? Those are the questions I have. Not just what they do but why to use them? To get the system to be balanced?

 

the channel sliders and just that, a control for each channel, the main slider on the left is like a global control, that raises or lowers them all together. turn all your sliders down a bunch, turn up the gain on you amps just a bit, then check how it sounds, you;ll get a feel for it. Like Haze said, your flash is going to hold you back a lot. many indy shops have the tool to flash your head unit, maybe make some calls.
turn the main slider down, turn the channel sliders down, turn the gain on the amp to like 1/4 turn off zero. play some music, while paying, raise your channel sliders a bit and check sound, if good turn up the main a bit, repeat process until you have good sound with no distortion or other issues. it's a mixing game!
after you make your first adjustments, go back and recheck your eq stuff, repeat until happy, and dont release the magic smoke.
m

 

I pulled all the vtwin harness stuff I had installed (to avoid cutting wires) and have ordered a converter. I'm not getting readings out of the amp (voltage) that make any sense so I'm eliminating possible issues. ONce that is installed, I'll try again to set the gains. I know that a flash would help more, but until shops open for business, that will have to wait.
Another reason to remove the harness is the feedback/hissing/staticy noise I was getting with volume muted. Reducing connections, etc. Fresh speaker wires being run to all 4 corners to combat this.

Thanks for the input so far, will have more in a few days once the parts show up.

 

Ok, update time.
Thanks for all the input, but especially thanks to Andy. Thanks for putting up with my constant barrage of questions.
With the vtwin audio cables/harness' pulled out, sni-35 installed, I have an amazing sound now. I set the gains to ~22 volts and everything sounds great. Even with my 4/0 flash. I called a local HD, but nope, won't do the flash without their boom junk installed. A local indy place wants 70 bucks to do it, says it takes an hour.
I'm planning a trip to visit Andy in Illinois in the next few months (covid dependent) and get my system flashed, tuned, and some beers drank.

Thanks again to all for your help. Until I do bag lids! LOL