Replacing my GZ 6.5 coaxials
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 234
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From: Bahrain
Replacing my GZ 6.5 coaxials
Hi all,
I am thinking of trying new speakers in my fairing, currently I have the GZ 6.5 coaxials, I also have a SD 800.4 4ohm to power whatever speakers I will be putting in the fairing to replace the GZ, let's hear your suggestions please.
Bike is 2013 street glide, I also have PRV 8MB500-ndy with PRV tweeters in my SBD lids that I am planning to keep.
Thank you in advance.
I am thinking of trying new speakers in my fairing, currently I have the GZ 6.5 coaxials, I also have a SD 800.4 4ohm to power whatever speakers I will be putting in the fairing to replace the GZ, let's hear your suggestions please.
Bike is 2013 street glide, I also have PRV 8MB500-ndy with PRV tweeters in my SBD lids that I am planning to keep.
Thank you in advance.
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From: indiana
Ok lets start over. What does your currant setup consist of? I know you have the gz yellow baskets in the fairing and prv 8's with horns in the lids. What amp(s) are running the gz's? the prv's? What prv tweeters? What power are they getting? Is there a dsp in play?
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 234
Likes: 6
From: Bahrain
Ok lets start over. What does your currant setup consist of? I know you have the gz yellow baskets in the fairing and prv 8's with horns in the lids. What amp(s) are running the gz's? the prv's? What prv tweeters? What power are they getting? Is there a dsp in play?
OK, so both my amps are the SD 800.4 evo the older model without crossover control, DSP is DSR1, I have the GZ 6.5 COAXIALS in the fairing powered by ch1 and ch2 from my fairing amp getting 110W each, ch3 and ch4 are not used. My other amp is powering my lids speakers and tweeters, the prv 8MB500-ndy are getting around 200w eachg from ch1 and ch2 bridged, and my prv TW400ti (4ohm) are getting 50w each from ch3 and ch4.
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From: indiana
I will suggest that before you change anything, try bridging the fairing amp to those gz's. As you stated they are getting around 110w each and the gz's really shine around 200 to 250w. Bridge the 800 and set the gains with a voltmeter around 28-30v. (28 = 200w, 31v=240-250w). Once you get that wired, you can retune the dsr to your liking but keep in mind that the more power you give the gz's or any 6.5 speaker, the higher you have to set the hpf. After you bridge the amp, I would suggest setting the hpf to around 100. You can use a simple rta on a phone app with pink noise to reel in the eq curve. What ever you do, do not set the gains on the amp bridged to max as that will give 400w to those gz's and although some say they will run with that much power, they wont run that power for an extended time. 200-250 is perfect for them.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 234
Likes: 6
From: Bahrain
I will suggest that before you change anything, try bridging the fairing amp to those gz's. As you stated they are getting around 110w each and the gz's really shine around 200 to 250w. Bridge the 800 and set the gains with a voltmeter around 28-30v. (28 = 200w, 31v=240-250w). Once you get that wired, you can retune the dsr to your liking but keep in mind that the more power you give the gz's or any 6.5 speaker, the higher you have to set the hpf. After you bridge the amp, I would suggest setting the hpf to around 100. You can use a simple rta on a phone app with pink noise to reel in the eq curve. What ever you do, do not set the gains on the amp bridged to max as that will give 400w to those gz's and although some say they will run with that much power, they wont run that power for an extended time. 200-250 is perfect for them.
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From: Andover, MN
There are a lot of horn/woofer speakers out there that would be better. But to make them better, its best if you run woofer and horn on own channels of amp and DSP. If you only have a 800.4, this will put you low on power for those upper end speakers: Faitals, Beyma, Euphoria
One option to replace the GZ would be a set of the Cicadas CH6.5. They are a horn/woofer. But they come with a very nice crossover and can still be tuned via DSP. I recently installed a set of this 8 (same as 6.5) and I am very impressed with the loudness and clarity and punch.
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From: indiana
I have to agree with shocker on the gz's being about as good as it gets without spending $$$ for a speaker that will need to be bi-amped for the woofer/ tweeter. I have not heard the new cicada ch series yet so I cant comment on them. I believe once you get 200w to those gz's you will be happy at least for a bit until that unicorn pops his head up again.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2019
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From: Bahrain
For a true coax, the GZ are hard to beat.
There are a lot of horn/woofer speakers out there that would be better. But to make them better, its best if you run woofer and horn on own channels of amp and DSP. If you only have a 800.4, this will put you low on power for those upper end speakers: Faitals, Beyma, Euphoria
One option to replace the GZ would be a set of the Cicadas CH6.5. They are a horn/woofer. But they come with a very nice crossover and can still be tuned via DSP. I recently installed a set of this 8 (same as 6.5) and I am very impressed with the loudness and clarity and punch.
There are a lot of horn/woofer speakers out there that would be better. But to make them better, its best if you run woofer and horn on own channels of amp and DSP. If you only have a 800.4, this will put you low on power for those upper end speakers: Faitals, Beyma, Euphoria
One option to replace the GZ would be a set of the Cicadas CH6.5. They are a horn/woofer. But they come with a very nice crossover and can still be tuned via DSP. I recently installed a set of this 8 (same as 6.5) and I am very impressed with the loudness and clarity and punch.