I got a used GTS to replace my failing HDHU14+ on my 18 FLHTK. The guy I got it from said he flashed it with the Soundz flash, enabled wireless car play and had factory reset it. It will fade from front to rear. I got it hooked up and my phone will Bluetooth connect and play music however it does not show the car play screen. I plugged it in with the wire to the usb and still no CarPlay. Projection is on, I checked the firm ware and I have the latest version. Im considering buying the Alaris flash tool but wanted to get opinions first. Here is the rest of my system information as well as pics of all the radio numbers. I do have a DSP 408 but was waiting to get another amp before I installed it.

Hertz 4.900 amp
Hertz 6.5 Fairing speakers
Hertz 6.5 SV TP speakers
Hertz 6x9 Bag speakers
Mmats 6.5 Lower fairing speakers

 

Sounds like you are trying to connect to carplay - so, you must have an iPhone.

Before doing anything else, try this - plug your Harley wired headset into your rider or passenger post. Now, connect the phone to your USB connection.

See if carplay comes up.

 

you are correct I do have an iPhone. Unfortunately I do not have wired headsets. I was talking this morning to a friend who said I may need the $10 Amazon jumper plug. So I’ll take a gamble on that to see it’ll it works. Thanks for the reply.

 

"The guy I got it from said he flashed it with the Soundz flash, enabled wireless car play and had factory reset it."
I believe the "Soundz flash" is referring to a amp/equalizer/speaker flash, and not the problem with CarPlay, as well as the "factory reset" part, not the problem.

The interesting part is the "enabled wireless car play", which doesn't exist via a "flash" (I'll get to that in #2 below).

#1, first, by design, you have to plug your iPhone into the bike's USB and have a headset (mic) connected for CarPlay to be available.
The easiest way is to do what Cycle7447 says, but your bike doesn't have wired coms, so no headset jack...
For these bikes HD would sell you a WHIM module, then you would connect a wireless headset to meet the headset(mic) requirement... but No WHIM Module installed, Right?
So now you need a "hack to get around the headset(mic) requirement for CarPlay to be available without using a headset(mic).
If so, for a bike without wired coms or WHIM the Amazon $10 "jumper" plugs, that plug in under the fairing, is perfect probably for what you are wanting to do, wanting CarPlay to be available and not using a headset.

Where this could get tricky for you is that "enabled wireless car play" part... Only thing I can think of that he might mean is that WHIM has been enabled, and that setting will have to be disabled for the $10 jumper to work.
Now why this is interesting is because unless this guy had a HD dealer flash it for him using Digital Tech, it would mean he had access to a "third party" diagnostic software to flash the head unit (Diag4Bike, TechnoResearch, Etc).
HD's Digital Tech can't do it, but the third party ones I mentioned can access a setting that disables the need for a headset(mic), to get CarPlay to be available without a headset(mic) connected AND then there would be no need for any jumpers.
I have Diag4Bike, and I have been using this "software hack" since the GTS's came out.

So if I were you, I would first be sure the USB cable you are using is a Apple USB cable in really good shape to test with (to take that as a potential problem out of the equation), and if it still doesn't get CarPlay to be available, try the $10 Amazon CarPlay jumper. If it still doesn't work I think your next step is going to be having the WHIM setting checked, and to do that you are going to need access to diagnostic software (pay a dealer or indy to check/change it for you). HD's Digital Tech can't do it (DigitalTech can't see the setting anymore) so if they disable WHIM for you then you would use the $10 Amazon jumper. But if you take it to an Indy that has TechnoResearch (or Diag4Bike), he can access that setting that disables the headset(mic) requirement for you and you wouldn't need or use the Amazon jumper. On Diag4Bike the setting is straight forward, its "CarPlay Mic Type" options are "Wired" "Wireless" or "Disabled", and I set it to disabled, then CarPlay is available with or without a headset. With TechnoResearch's Centurion it's done in a different way because their software isn't as straight forward on this, and per Carlos at TechnoResearch it is done by enabling both Bluetooth and WHIM (ironically) and then it will also disable the need for a headset(mic) to be connected. If your indy is unsure about how to do it, tell him to call TechnoResearch and verify (thats what I did, but it was years ago). One warning about using the "software hack", if at some point later you have your bike in a dealer's shop, and they hook DigitalTech up to your bike and they access the wrong screen while in there, they could inadvertently screw this setting up and you would have to get your indy to change it back. I have had it happen to me a couple times, but I knew it was likely to happen because of what we were messing with, and when I got home I hooked Diag4Bike up to the bike and in 10 minutes all was well again.

FWIW, IF you are thinking about getting the TechnoResearch Alaris flash tool, from what I read on their website, it also can access these settings to do this... but I'd call them and verify that and verify the exact setting to do it (because it is not as straight forward as the software I use). I have talked to their guys (its always been Carlos though) in Michigan a few times and they're great (leave a message and they call back).

Now #2, Wireless CarPlay refers to not having to plug your iPhone into the bike's USB cable to get CarPlay to be available. This is independent of the above, and I wouldn't move on to this until I first had CarPlay working as intended. For this all you do is get one of the 100 different kinds of "Wireless CarPlay" modules that are available. Everyone has their pick, I use this one in my trucks and bikes
It plugs into the bike's USB cable, instead of plugging the iPhone into the bike, the module makes the head unit think the iPhone is plugged in to it.... then the module communicates with the iPhone via Bluetooth/WIFI... and you can have your iPhone in your pocket, saddle bag, whatever.

Sorry it got so wordy ​​​​​​​

 

Thanks for the detailed information. I went out and tried 4 more cods plugged in, 2 of which brand new apple cords. No luck. I put in a car play adapter to the usb that I was using with the Soundstream. Still no luck. I went ahead and ordered the plug off Amazon. Should be here tomorrow and I’ll try that. If all else fails, I have an appt at my Indy to get new tires installed next Saturday, they do audio as well, and I’ll get them to look at the settings to see what it needs. I appreciate all the information you provided. Too much is never enough. I’ll report back tomorrow and let yall know if the plug worked.

 

Hopefully the jumper makes it work, but if you get the jumper plugged in and CarPlay still doesn't pop up with the iPhone plugged in to the USB, I'd bet the previous owner just had WHIM enabled by a dealer, and it needs it to be disabled so the jumper works.
OR... since you're going to an Indy that also does audio, if your Indy uses TechnoResearch's diagnostic software (which seems to be the popular brand with them), he'll be able to get you going where you don't need the jumper or he could just disable WHIM and you use the jumper. I'm sure there are other software that can do it also, I am just familiar with the two (TechnoResearch and Diag4Bike).
My preference would be to take the jumper off before I went to him, and have him flash it to where CarPlay works without headset(mic) or the jumper... but I also have the software to change to back if it was to get screwed up later.

FWIW, the wireless CarPlay adapter has no bearing on this part of it, so I always leave them off if I am having an issue until I get CarPlay working right, just to make my process of elimination easier for me. Once I get "problem 1" sorted out, then I'll move on to putting the wireless adapter on, which I really like and its generally painless.

 

The jumper worked. CarPlay is active with it plugged in. I have an older ZZAir CP adapter that when plugged in makes it wireless. It just takes about 15-20 sec for it to load up. Not sure if a newer model would work any better or not. Thank you for the help and the education. Hopefully anyone else that runs into this issue will find this thread useful.

 

Quick edit to note, @ssitruc , I got the carplay adapter you linked above and it connects in about 3-5 sec now. Thanks again

 

There's a ton of them out there, but I've had good luck with that one, so I've stuck with it on other bikes, trucks, and cars...
I originally got it for its size, so on the bike I could put a velcro Scotch-Lock strip on the back of it and stick it up out of the way on my RGL.
It doesn't really take any space away from the little storage area...

 

Just so I’m clear, there’s no way to get CarPlay on a factory 17 boom radio, correct? I’m currently looking for a gts swap that’s already flashed. Thanks