Street glide setup for a great sounding stereo?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,843
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
UltraNutz,
I am looking to upgrade my 2012 SG sound system. I want to stick with the stock radio, but want to add an amp and change out the speakers. I was first looking at the J&m system but after reading some of your post about the soundstream pn4520d and the polk mm651's I feel this is the route I want to go. I have looked up the polk speakers and there seems to be a few different ones to choose from. Can you tell me the exact part# you recommend? By the way at this time I just want to run with the fairing speakers.
Thanks for your time.
dive60
I am looking to upgrade my 2012 SG sound system. I want to stick with the stock radio, but want to add an amp and change out the speakers. I was first looking at the J&m system but after reading some of your post about the soundstream pn4520d and the polk mm651's I feel this is the route I want to go. I have looked up the polk speakers and there seems to be a few different ones to choose from. Can you tell me the exact part# you recommend? By the way at this time I just want to run with the fairing speakers.
Thanks for your time.
dive60
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA2.../dp/B001C3P6FI
IMHO, it is overkill to use the SS 4.520 on a two speaker only setup. If you don't plan on using the other 2 channels for lower speakers or saddlebag speakers, I would recommend the pbr300x2 from Rockford Fosgate.
Last edited by Pioneer74; Mar 20, 2013 at 09:38 PM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
From: Mississippi
in response to your other post Strait...
No sir actually you're doing it correctly. Speakers should be changed first to see if that's all you need, then amp, then head unit in stages as you described.
If you're going to do rear speaker lids, I wouldn't bridge the amp to the fronts to save yourself the trouble of rewiring it when you do add the lids.
Simply run the Titan IIs off the front channel of the amp, and connect your rear speaker wires so you don't have to pull your fairing apart again. Then when you get the rears in, connect your wires and off you go.
No sir actually you're doing it correctly. Speakers should be changed first to see if that's all you need, then amp, then head unit in stages as you described.
If you're going to do rear speaker lids, I wouldn't bridge the amp to the fronts to save yourself the trouble of rewiring it when you do add the lids.
Simply run the Titan IIs off the front channel of the amp, and connect your rear speaker wires so you don't have to pull your fairing apart again. Then when you get the rears in, connect your wires and off you go.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
From: Mississippi
To, Oldhippie, GlacierPearl, MotoMike, Harley Ping Man, Pioneer74, UltraNutz thank you all for hanging in there with me on this I appreciate your input and advice on all this information hopefully in next couple weeks ill have all my stuff here and get it in.
Again thank you for all this as I know you have answered these same questions many times.
If I can figure out how to add pics after I get it all in I will post them up.
Again thank you for all this as I know you have answered these same questions many times.
If I can figure out how to add pics after I get it all in I will post them up.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
Polk Audio AA2651-A MM651 6.5-Inch Coax Speaker
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA2.../dp/B001C3P6FI
IMHO, it is overkill to use the SS 4.520 on a two speaker only setup. If you don't plan on using the other 2 channels for lower speakers or saddlebag speakers, I would recommend the pbr300x2 from Rockford Fosgate.
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA2.../dp/B001C3P6FI
IMHO, it is overkill to use the SS 4.520 on a two speaker only setup. If you don't plan on using the other 2 channels for lower speakers or saddlebag speakers, I would recommend the pbr300x2 from Rockford Fosgate.
- More power which means cleaner output at lower and higher volumes
- Less expensive
- Class D which means it won't run hot, hell I've got my rear channels running at a 1.3 ohm load and that amp never gets hot
- Class D also means it won't kill your charging system. Outputs is what draws power from your electrical system it's not the power supply of the amp like most think it is and being Class D means switching outputs and little current draw
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
UltraNutz,
I am looking to upgrade my 2012 SG sound system. I want to stick with the stock radio, but want to add an amp and change out the speakers. I was first looking at the J&m system but after reading some of your post about the soundstream pn4520d and the polk mm651's I feel this is the route I want to go. I have looked up the polk speakers and there seems to be a few different ones to choose from. Can you tell me the exact part# you recommend? By the way at this time I just want to run with the fairing speakers.
Thanks for your time.
dive60
I am looking to upgrade my 2012 SG sound system. I want to stick with the stock radio, but want to add an amp and change out the speakers. I was first looking at the J&m system but after reading some of your post about the soundstream pn4520d and the polk mm651's I feel this is the route I want to go. I have looked up the polk speakers and there seems to be a few different ones to choose from. Can you tell me the exact part# you recommend? By the way at this time I just want to run with the fairing speakers.
Thanks for your time.
dive60
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,843
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
I was recommending the pbr amp because of the speaker he chose. They can't handle the full 2 channel bridged power of the SS amp and it's not good on the equipment to only run 2 out of the 4 channels for an extended period of time.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
What I don't agree with (at least not 100%) is the last statement in running an amp in bridged mode for an extended period of time not being good for the equipment. There are 2 major things to consider when bridging amps.
- Class of amp. A Class A or A/B amp is going to act/perform totally different than a Class D amp because of the way they're designed. and
- The impedance load seen at the output stage of the amp.
When you drop below a 4 ohm load at the amp (bridged) this whole scenario changes and then you are talking about stressing the output transistors for both front and rear outputs regardless of class of amp. In this scenario, your statement would be 100% correct.
Hope that helps and I didn't confuse anyone...
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