Amp cutting out
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 243
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From: San Antonio, TX
Amp cutting out
I've done a complete upgrade of my stereo system (I'll post everything when it's done) and it sounds awesome. I have one last issue that is totally baffling me. I have the Arc Audio 125.4 in the fairing and when I put on the outer fairing, it apparently creates a repeated short at high volume (Based on the amp's fault code). The amp will cut out and if the volume is turned back down, will come back in about 30 seconds I've tried to replicate the fault with the fairing off by pressing on the wiring, with no luck. I've disconnected each speaker individually and tried installing the fairing, but that didn't work either. Another strange thing I've noticed is that it does not cut out at the same volume all the time. Sometimes it's just below half volume, sometimes it's just above. This problem never occurs with the fairing off, though. I did notice some small nicks on the wires for the 105 harness (the inner fairing switches) and I thought I had the fault replicated by pressing on those wires, but it's not consistent. I taped up the wires and was thinking my next move may be to use butt splice connectors to remove the areas with nicks. I've been in touch with Brad at Arc Audio and he seems baffled by this as well. Maybe someone can think of something we haven't.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
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From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
That's a very tight fit for the ARC 125.4 under a faring. I have some suggestions but if you are talking to Brad, he should be able to guide you.
If it's not an overheating issue...because that amp will get very warm when driving 2 Ohm speakers, then it's likely that you are compromising an associated connection/wire by applying pressure when you install the faring.
The fact that it does not stay "broke" leads me back to heat. You should also double check and ensure that you have no speaker wire filaments making inappropriate contact with other wire filaments on the speaker output block of the amplifier. On the other side of the amp, pull the fuses and push them back in place as well. Make sure that your power leads are solid and tight.
After you install the faring, could something be working it's way into the opening where the fan sucks in air and preventing the fan from turning? Is anything blocking the air exit openings on the speaker side of the amplifier?
Are you using the sensing feature to turn the amp on and off or are you using a relay?
So these things come to mind based on your symptoms.
If it's not an overheating issue...because that amp will get very warm when driving 2 Ohm speakers, then it's likely that you are compromising an associated connection/wire by applying pressure when you install the faring.
The fact that it does not stay "broke" leads me back to heat. You should also double check and ensure that you have no speaker wire filaments making inappropriate contact with other wire filaments on the speaker output block of the amplifier. On the other side of the amp, pull the fuses and push them back in place as well. Make sure that your power leads are solid and tight.
After you install the faring, could something be working it's way into the opening where the fan sucks in air and preventing the fan from turning? Is anything blocking the air exit openings on the speaker side of the amplifier?
Are you using the sensing feature to turn the amp on and off or are you using a relay?
So these things come to mind based on your symptoms.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 243
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX
I thought I had it figured out. The wires I soldered from the radio front output to the RCA cables seemed to have a bad connection. I redid those with butt splice connectors and it seemed to work. Once I buttoned everything up, the issue started again. This time, it also involved the rear speakers. I'll check everything again in the morning, but it seems like it's getting worse. If I have the same problem, I'm gonna have to say it's the head unit.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 243
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX
That's a very tight fit for the ARC 125.4 under a faring. I have some suggestions but if you are talking to Brad, he should be able to guide you.
If it's not an overheating issue...because that amp will get very warm when driving 2 Ohm speakers, then it's likely that you are compromising an associated connection/wire by applying pressure when you install the faring.
The fact that it does not stay "broke" leads me back to heat. You should also double check and ensure that you have no speaker wire filaments making inappropriate contact with other wire filaments on the speaker output block of the amplifier. On the other side of the amp, pull the fuses and push them back in place as well. Make sure that your power leads are solid and tight.
After you install the faring, could something be working it's way into the opening where the fan sucks in air and preventing the fan from turning? Is anything blocking the air exit openings on the speaker side of the amplifier?
Are you using the sensing feature to turn the amp on and off or are you using a relay?
So these things come to mind based on your symptoms.
If it's not an overheating issue...because that amp will get very warm when driving 2 Ohm speakers, then it's likely that you are compromising an associated connection/wire by applying pressure when you install the faring.
The fact that it does not stay "broke" leads me back to heat. You should also double check and ensure that you have no speaker wire filaments making inappropriate contact with other wire filaments on the speaker output block of the amplifier. On the other side of the amp, pull the fuses and push them back in place as well. Make sure that your power leads are solid and tight.
After you install the faring, could something be working it's way into the opening where the fan sucks in air and preventing the fan from turning? Is anything blocking the air exit openings on the speaker side of the amplifier?
Are you using the sensing feature to turn the amp on and off or are you using a relay?
So these things come to mind based on your symptoms.
I'm using an accessory wire to turn on the amp. According to Brad, using the auto sense with the HK unit can cause problems.
No matter what I do, I can't seem to replicate the issue with any regularity. I may have to take the bike to an audio shop and let them figure out what I can't. As I mentioned to UN, I'm leaning toward the head unit right now.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
man you sure have had your share of issues with this. I missed your call yesterday as I was out riding.. Give me call today if you still need me...
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: San Antonio, TX
I'm going to test the head unit directly, as all 4 channels cut out yesterday while riding. It would be logical explanation of why I couldn't replicate the faults.
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 243
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX
Tested the head unit directly and there are no issues. I'll let it run awhile to see if maybe it's a heat issue.
So by themselves, the radio and the amp are fine. Pretty confusing.
So by themselves, the radio and the amp are fine. Pretty confusing.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 243
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX
OK, so if you've been following along, we know the amp and the head unit are working properly as stand alone units. So obviously the problem is when they are connected. When I first started this project, UN recommended that I buy two line output converters, which I did. According to Arc Audio, it isn't needed for the 125.4, so I didn't use it. I simply set the input to high and went about my business.
So I know there is an issue with how the head unit interfaces with the amp and I remembered I still have that extra line output converter. Fifteen minutes later, everything is working fine. It seemed like a lost a bit of volume, so I turned the gains all the way up. The system sounded good, but not perfect. I took it for about a 20 minute ride and everything still works. Had I followed UN's advice from the beginning, I would probably have saved myself a ton of aggravation.
We'll see if this is a permanent fix. Thanks again to UN, Carl and Scott for their assistance. I'll post pics and descriptions when I get a chance. Hopefully I learned enough that I can help someone else to have a smoother install on their project.
So I know there is an issue with how the head unit interfaces with the amp and I remembered I still have that extra line output converter. Fifteen minutes later, everything is working fine. It seemed like a lost a bit of volume, so I turned the gains all the way up. The system sounded good, but not perfect. I took it for about a 20 minute ride and everything still works. Had I followed UN's advice from the beginning, I would probably have saved myself a ton of aggravation.
We'll see if this is a permanent fix. Thanks again to UN, Carl and Scott for their assistance. I'll post pics and descriptions when I get a chance. Hopefully I learned enough that I can help someone else to have a smoother install on their project.
Last edited by Fire4Effect; Jul 21, 2013 at 07:20 PM.