amps made in usa
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Michigan
Sure would like to hear what you have to say about this amp and speakers, as they are going to be part of my winter sound system overhaul. If you could make a new thread with pictures, thoughts, and maybe even a review, I'm sure that a lot of people would appreciate it, especially me. Not a lot of first-hand information about Biketronics amps out there.
Is there any FM interference with the BT4180?
Are you saying that the BT4180 has adjustable gains?
Some D amps exist that are supposedly FM friendly. I believe J&M and Biketronics stand out.
Be aware that i believe both J&M and BT don't let you adjust gains w/o cracking the seal and voiding warranty. Worth chatting with them before you buy to confirm. I believe they can set them "mostly there" if they know your intended setup.
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Tucson AZ
all gains on J&M amps are adjustable/programmable thru the DSP port, for the specific audio system configuration ,,,,,,
our website software is also almost finished to allow the user to download certain programs for their J&M class G, ROKKER XT amp, and load them in while the amp is still mounted in the faring ,,,,,,
most important however is to make sure that the input gains for our amps are adjusted PROPERLY for each particular 2, 4, 6 or 8 speaker configuration ,,,,,,,,
we don't ever want to go back to the days when the installer would just crank the amp gains to maximum, just so the customer would not ask for more after the bike is back together, and then wonder why all the speakers burn down in a few short weeks ,,,,,
our website software is also almost finished to allow the user to download certain programs for their J&M class G, ROKKER XT amp, and load them in while the amp is still mounted in the faring ,,,,,,
most important however is to make sure that the input gains for our amps are adjusted PROPERLY for each particular 2, 4, 6 or 8 speaker configuration ,,,,,,,,
we don't ever want to go back to the days when the installer would just crank the amp gains to maximum, just so the customer would not ask for more after the bike is back together, and then wonder why all the speakers burn down in a few short weeks ,,,,,
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JMJOHN,,,, www.Jmcorp.com ,,,, send email direct to John@Jmcorp.com for your HD-Forums VIP Discount Promo Code.
JMJOHN,,,, www.Jmcorp.com ,,,, send email direct to John@Jmcorp.com for your HD-Forums VIP Discount Promo Code.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,516
Likes: 1,994
From: Vancouver BC
You cannot burn out speakers which are properly designed to handle the amplifier power driving them. Are you saying your speakers are not built to handle your amplifier's potential power, and that you have to de-rate or limit your amp so as not to overdrive your speakers? Why not just build a more robust speaker?
Last edited by Ride my Seesaw; Sep 23, 2013 at 09:05 PM.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 14
From: washington dc
sl33py -- thx
Class D is good for my application, because I care about heat and weight and the only time the radio is on is between CDs. So, I just picked up a BT-454 from a member. Hope it has enough pwr for my two 4ohm Focals and Stevie Ray Vaughn.
If this thread can stand more off-topic stuff, I've a new question. I've added a few things like auxiliary lights and the amp. Next addition is power inside my on-again-off-again tour pack for an LED light bar and charging my phone. The lights in particular came with lots of wire, w/connectors. The looong lengths of wire currently are nicely looped and zip tied inside the fairing. Is that bad? Should I keep all wire runs only as long as reasonably necessary, even spkr wires?
What's the best source for quality moisture proof insulated connectors?
TIA
Class D is good for my application, because I care about heat and weight and the only time the radio is on is between CDs. So, I just picked up a BT-454 from a member. Hope it has enough pwr for my two 4ohm Focals and Stevie Ray Vaughn.
If this thread can stand more off-topic stuff, I've a new question. I've added a few things like auxiliary lights and the amp. Next addition is power inside my on-again-off-again tour pack for an LED light bar and charging my phone. The lights in particular came with lots of wire, w/connectors. The looong lengths of wire currently are nicely looped and zip tied inside the fairing. Is that bad? Should I keep all wire runs only as long as reasonably necessary, even spkr wires?
What's the best source for quality moisture proof insulated connectors?
TIA
Last edited by jefla; Sep 23, 2013 at 09:04 PM.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,516
Likes: 1,994
From: Vancouver BC
The long cable lengths for your LED's should pose no problem as there won't be any perceptible current drop at the LED's due to the low power nature of these devices. High current devices such as amps, starters, and filament bulbs I would say yes, keep the lead length down to a minimum. I would keep speaker wire down in length also just for the reason that you don't want it acting as an antenna picking up ignition noise and other electromagnetic noise. Always route the speaker wire away from spark plug wires and ignition modules. If you have to cross the spark plug wires then do so at a 90 degree angle rather than parallel with them to avoid inductive pickup.
Moisture proof connectors can be found at digikey.com and mouser.com.
Moisture proof connectors can be found at digikey.com and mouser.com.
Last edited by Ride my Seesaw; Sep 23, 2013 at 11:16 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Tucson AZ
Ride-My-Seasaw ,,,,,,,
with all due respect ,,,, you are making an incorrect statement ,,,,,,,
DISTORTION is what destroys a speaker, regardless of brand ,,,,,,,
when you guys adjust the amplifier input gains to levels that cause you to run down the highway at high distortion levels for hours on end, and then blame the speaker manufacturer when the speakers burn down ,,, that is wrong ,,,,,,
it is no different than putting a supercharger on your engine, with a boost pressure screw adjustable by the rider, and then after 2-4 beers the screw is turned all the way up, so that you are faster than the next guy, and then wonder why you have piston erosion the next morning ,,,,,,,
the J&M ROKKER XX speakers http://www.jmcorp.com/ProductDetail....=HCRK-7252-RXX ,,,, are THE MOST durable speaker ever made for the Harley Bagger audio systems, but they can still be damaged by incorrect input gain adjustments to the amplifier ,,,,,,,
now please educate yourself a little more on this subject prior to making these types of statements ,,,,,,,,
I have been doing this for 35 years ,,, and while I do not know everything, I know a little bit about this subject ,,,,,,
with all due respect ,,,, you are making an incorrect statement ,,,,,,,
DISTORTION is what destroys a speaker, regardless of brand ,,,,,,,
when you guys adjust the amplifier input gains to levels that cause you to run down the highway at high distortion levels for hours on end, and then blame the speaker manufacturer when the speakers burn down ,,, that is wrong ,,,,,,
it is no different than putting a supercharger on your engine, with a boost pressure screw adjustable by the rider, and then after 2-4 beers the screw is turned all the way up, so that you are faster than the next guy, and then wonder why you have piston erosion the next morning ,,,,,,,
the J&M ROKKER XX speakers http://www.jmcorp.com/ProductDetail....=HCRK-7252-RXX ,,,, are THE MOST durable speaker ever made for the Harley Bagger audio systems, but they can still be damaged by incorrect input gain adjustments to the amplifier ,,,,,,,
now please educate yourself a little more on this subject prior to making these types of statements ,,,,,,,,
I have been doing this for 35 years ,,, and while I do not know everything, I know a little bit about this subject ,,,,,,
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,516
Likes: 1,994
From: Vancouver BC
Ride-My-Seasaw ,,,,,,,
with all due respect ,,,, you are making an incorrect statement ,,,,,,,
DISTORTION is what destroys a speaker, regardless of brand ,,,,,,,
when you guys adjust the amplifier input gains to levels that cause you to run down the highway at high distortion levels for hours on end, and then blame the speaker manufacturer when the speakers burn down ,,, that is wrong ,,,,,,
it is no different than putting a supercharger on your engine, with a boost pressure screw adjustable by the rider, and then after 2-4 beers the screw is turned all the way up, so that you are faster than the next guy, and then wonder why you have piston erosion the next morning ,,,,,,,
the J&M ROKKER XX speakers http://www.jmcorp.com/ProductDetail....=HCRK-7252-RXX ,,,, are THE MOST durable speaker ever made for the Harley Bagger audio systems, but they can still be damaged by incorrect input gain adjustments to the amplifier ,,,,,,,
now please educate yourself a little more on this subject prior to making these types of statements ,,,,,,,,
I have been doing this for 35 years ,,, and while I do not know everything, I know a little bit about this subject ,,,,,,
with all due respect ,,,, you are making an incorrect statement ,,,,,,,
DISTORTION is what destroys a speaker, regardless of brand ,,,,,,,
when you guys adjust the amplifier input gains to levels that cause you to run down the highway at high distortion levels for hours on end, and then blame the speaker manufacturer when the speakers burn down ,,, that is wrong ,,,,,,
it is no different than putting a supercharger on your engine, with a boost pressure screw adjustable by the rider, and then after 2-4 beers the screw is turned all the way up, so that you are faster than the next guy, and then wonder why you have piston erosion the next morning ,,,,,,,
the J&M ROKKER XX speakers http://www.jmcorp.com/ProductDetail....=HCRK-7252-RXX ,,,, are THE MOST durable speaker ever made for the Harley Bagger audio systems, but they can still be damaged by incorrect input gain adjustments to the amplifier ,,,,,,,
now please educate yourself a little more on this subject prior to making these types of statements ,,,,,,,,
I have been doing this for 35 years ,,, and while I do not know everything, I know a little bit about this subject ,,,,,,
As an engineer I do like to keep myself educated in these matters. The assumption then is that your amplifiers are either Clipping, have bad Intermodulation Distortion, and/or Harmonic Distortion. This is caused by non-linear behavior of electronic components and power supply limitations. Of course this can be remedied with proper engineering in the design phase of the amplifiers development. Perhaps you might want to consider adding a simple 'peak limiter' at the amplifiers input too. In any event, it sounds like the amp is not folding back when driven into distortion, thus passing on square waves to the speakers and blowing them. Your amp does have a 'Fold Back' circuit designed into it doesn't it? A lot cheaper than DSP and you'll never cook a speaker or blow an amp.
Also, let's talk about speakers. Enquiring minds would like to know why certain purveyors of audio products advertise their speaker ratings in 'Max Power' rather than the more scientifically accurate Watts RMS. 'Max Power' is a nebulous statement. It is useless information unless backed with some data to show how one arrived at that number. Hence the use of the term RMS which is widely used to show the long term handling power of a speaker. Max Power states nothing as it does not show the durations and period of the peaks. It is why reputable speaker manufacturers always rate their speakers in RMS. Most manufacturers are also more than happy to advertise the audio curves of their speakers to illustrate how flat they are. That way you can see all the peaks and dips across its frequency range and decide if that's the right speaker for you. And how about speaker sensitivity? Again, that's another piece of useful information that is always advertised by leading manufacturers.
The stereo buying public would like to be able to see factual technical information in order to make sound buying decisions (pun intended.)
Last edited by Ride my Seesaw; Sep 24, 2013 at 03:22 AM.
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,581
Likes: 65
From: Tucson AZ
ride-my-seasaw ,,,,,,,,
that all sounds good for "BOOK" theory, now put it to practical use on the Harley Baggers ,,,,,,,,
as for J&M ROKKER XX speaker specs ,,,,, max power, RMS power and sensitivity ,,,, they are all here http://www.jmcorp.com/ProductDetail....=HCRK-7252-RXX ,,,,,,,,
that all sounds good for "BOOK" theory, now put it to practical use on the Harley Baggers ,,,,,,,,
as for J&M ROKKER XX speaker specs ,,,,, max power, RMS power and sensitivity ,,,, they are all here http://www.jmcorp.com/ProductDetail....=HCRK-7252-RXX ,,,,,,,,
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,516
Likes: 1,994
From: Vancouver BC
ride-my-seasaw ,,,,,,,,
that all sounds good for "BOOK" theory, now put it to practical use on the Harley Baggers ,,,,,,,,
as for J&M ROKKER XX speaker specs ,,,,, max power, RMS power and sensitivity ,,,, they are all here http://www.jmcorp.com/ProductDetail....=HCRK-7252-RXX ,,,,,,,,
that all sounds good for "BOOK" theory, now put it to practical use on the Harley Baggers ,,,,,,,,
as for J&M ROKKER XX speaker specs ,,,,, max power, RMS power and sensitivity ,,,, they are all here http://www.jmcorp.com/ProductDetail....=HCRK-7252-RXX ,,,,,,,,