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What I have done several times for customers. Set them up with a 25 shot and put nozzle pre IAT. This works great for the roll on racing crowd. I suggest spraying in 3rd to pull ahead and 4th if needed but once you put a couple of lengths on the guy. He's beat. Then if you want more. We can figure out a tuning solution for your needs then.
Thats the trick for a street bike. No hard launch, just bring it in around 3rd buddy has 162 hp 128. He hits third, C-ya! No burnouts, no clutch dump just runs you down like youre sitting still! He did some clutch work to take the power, some suspension tweaks. Runs a belt is all I am saying. Do as you say on a bone stock bike and it should be fine. Get a little rush if you know whats cooking
If one wanted to try and save the engine from taking a big hit. Progressive controllers are an option. These controllers offer several features that come in handy over just a horn on/off.
Thats the trick for a street bike. No hard launch, just bring it in around 3rd buddy has 162 hp 128. He hits third, C-ya! No burnouts, no clutch dump just runs you down like youre sitting still! He did some clutch work to take the power, some suspension tweaks. Runs a belt is all I am saying. Do as you say on a bone stock bike and it should be fine. Get a little rush if you know whats cooking
I've done my share of clutch dump racing.
If he's running 162 hp on a stock transmission it's just a matter of time. Transmission is a ticking time bomb. Third gear usually is the one that blows....
One of the rules of thumb that i have for nitrous, is when you know that your are going to be using it on a build, you set your ring gaps up larger than you would for a NA application. I havent seen much with HD's, but with a lot of the Asian stuff i do, i have seen rings that butted up together and broke the piston ring lands.
Fortunately the bike i'm going to try this on, had the rings set up with this in mind! the bike is tuned with Powervision, but will also use a powercommander 5, with dual map capability to run a zero map while not on the bottle, and when on the fuel can be corrected and timing retarded. once you let go of the button, back to the zero map and the PV tune!
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What I have done several times for customers. Set them up with a 25 shot and put nozzle pre IAT. This works great for the roll on racing crowd. I suggest spraying in 3rd to pull ahead and 4th if needed but once you put a couple of lengths on the guy. He's beat. Then if you want more. We can figure out a tuning solution for your needs then.
With this kind of set up, do you still have to change the tune? Or can you run whatever tune your currently running (since its a small 25 shot)
With this kind of set up, do you still have to change the tune? Or can you run whatever tune your currently running (since its a small 25 shot)
I tune the bike without nitrous. I aim for best power on rich side of things. I then put nozzle pre Inlet Air Temp. Nitrous will bring down intake temps and when this happens. Fuel is added. I spray and check on my dyno. Small shot and placing the nozzles where I do is not as efficient as closer to valve. 15-18 increase and I have never seen 25.
I tune the bike without nitrous. I aim for best power on rich side of things. I then put nozzle pre Inlet Air Temp. Nitrous will bring down intake temps and when this happens. Fuel is added. I spray and check on my dyno. Small shot and placing the nozzles where I do is not as efficient as closer to valve. 15-18 increase and I have never seen 25.
Thanks for the info! Care to share whats a cheap kit? I keep seeing one on eBay from DynoTune dry kit for $350. Was going to order it and see if I can figure out the install myself. It comes with a 15, 30, and 40 nozzle. I assume I would use the 15 or 30 since Im not doing it for nitrous. Ive got a 103 with mid range dragos 590 cam. How do you attach the nozzle to the intake, are you drilling it out?
I buy a lot of things from DynoTune. The kits are nice and complete. I kind of recommend them, because depending on application. I usually source the style of nozzle I am after elsewhere. Yes, I have drilled and tapped the bottom of the TB in bellmouth area. Which wants a 90 jet. I have also drilled and tapped the air cleaner for straight jet. Sometimes it depend on how much customer wants it to show.
Something else to think about is bottle fill. The small bottle (12oz) are nice to hide but I wont fill them with my Nitrous station. You loose a lot. Better to buy a pig bottle and fill the small ones off that.
I buy a lot of things from DynoTune. The kits are nice and complete. I kind of recommend them, because depending on application. I usually source the style of nozzle I am after elsewhere. Yes, I have drilled and tapped the bottom of the TB in bellmouth area. Which wants a 90 jet. I have also drilled and tapped the air cleaner for straight jet. Sometimes it depend on how much customer wants it to show.
Something else to think about is bottle fill. The small bottle (12oz) are nice to hide but I wont fill them with my Nitrous station. You loose a lot. Better to buy a pig bottle and fill the small ones off that.
Awesome, I really appreciate the info. I ordered the kit yesterday! Just out of curiosity if using 30 shot how many hits can you get out of a 12 ounce until empty? I know its super small (I didnt know if its like one or two 3rd gear pulls or like 10?). Also, do you have to purge it before you hit the button like you see on cars? Or because its a small system its not necessary. Just turn on the bottle, arm switch, push horn button to spray. Lastly, is there a temperature range in which you are able to use nitrous? As in is there a certain temperature that its too cold or too hot.
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