Switch Housing
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 320
Likes: 24
From: Hudson Valley
In my experience. most of these bikes were custom chrome catalog parts. In fact they probably were delivered to the “factory” as a pallet full of parts. Sometimes the guy that put the parts order together had never assembled the parts before or if something was unavailable a substitution was made and the assembler was told to make it work
it is very possible that one could have ordered late model switch housing with screw in throttle bosses for an s&s carburetor. I was unable to find a part like that readily available currently for you
the other alternative is someone drilled and tapped the housing for screw in throttle cables. I’m pretty sure I have done that at least once in the past. I fact looking at the photo I am about 90% sure that is what was done
There was a lot of dumb stuff done back then when idiots were watching Orange County Choppers and building bikes in their garages
the simple answer is buy some throttle cables to match your carburetor and switch housings that fit your buttons.
it is very possible that one could have ordered late model switch housing with screw in throttle bosses for an s&s carburetor. I was unable to find a part like that readily available currently for you
the other alternative is someone drilled and tapped the housing for screw in throttle cables. I’m pretty sure I have done that at least once in the past. I fact looking at the photo I am about 90% sure that is what was done
There was a lot of dumb stuff done back then when idiots were watching Orange County Choppers and building bikes in their garages
the simple answer is buy some throttle cables to match your carburetor and switch housings that fit your buttons.
Last edited by inverse121; Apr 16, 2020 at 07:18 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,209
Likes: 12,796
From: South Carolina
I`ll try this again and word it differently.
`95 and earlier are compatible with throttle cables that are threaded.
`96 and later are compatible with throttle cables that are not threaded.
`95 and earlier housings must use `95 and earlier master cylinder/brake lever, and clutch lever/mount.
`96 and later use `96 and later master cylinder/brake lever, and clutch lever/mount.
To sum up;
`96 and earlier need all components to be `96 and earlier.
`96 and later need all components to be `96 and later.
All components means master cylinder, brake lever, switches, housings, clutch lever mount, clutch lever...EVERYTHING.
`95 and earlier are compatible with throttle cables that are threaded.
`96 and later are compatible with throttle cables that are not threaded.
`95 and earlier housings must use `95 and earlier master cylinder/brake lever, and clutch lever/mount.
`96 and later use `96 and later master cylinder/brake lever, and clutch lever/mount.
To sum up;
`96 and earlier need all components to be `96 and earlier.
`96 and later need all components to be `96 and later.
All components means master cylinder, brake lever, switches, housings, clutch lever mount, clutch lever...EVERYTHING.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Apr 16, 2020 at 10:03 AM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 169
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Thanks guys. Dan89 I understand what you are saying what I don't understand is how this bike has 96 and later housing which I can tell by the shape of the switch openings and internals where the brake switch is (I have had both types here at the house) and it being threaded. I think inverse may have hit it on the head with the housing having been threaded by the builder. Will price out the levers and everything for 96 or later as i figure those will be easier to obtain in a few years. Consider threading the 96 housing and see which is cheaper. I plan to sell the bike once running anyway. Thanks for the help.
scott
scott
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 169
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Ended up using 2005 non-threaded housing and threading it using 5/16 x 18 for one and 1/4 x 20 for the other. Took longer to go get the taps than it did to tap the hole. One thing I learned, or partially learned, the correct drill bit for a 5/16 x 18 tap is an "F". Never heard of a size "F" and couldn't find one. The closest size according to internet is 17/64. It ended up irrelevant as the predrilled holes were large enough to get the tap started. Thanks everyone for the help.
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