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I've changed bars a couple of times and I know that removing the wires can be a PITA but I would stick with it until you figure it out. Tell us more about the method you are using to release the pins from the housing. You have to use a very small probe and insert it into the housing to release the "catch" mechanism. Personally, I would not cut and solder. I'm pretty sure there are some threads with detailed instructions on removing the pins. Take a look around.
I've changed bars a couple of times and I know that removing the wires can be a PITA but I would stick with it until you figure it out. Tell us more about the method you are using to release the pins from the housing. You have to use a very small probe and insert it into the housing to release the "catch" mechanism. Personally, I would not cut and solder. I'm pretty sure there are some threads with detailed instructions on removing the pins. Take a look around.
The instructions say to use a paperclip to release the lock and pin from the connector.
I have bent up 3 paperclips. I have pulled, tugged, and put a effing paperclip in every hole in the connector housing.
And I found nothing in my search via the forum.. bout 30min from cutting
If you think the connector unpinning is tough, wait till you start feeding the loom through the new bars! haha in all seriousness it's not that hard. Take your time and re-examine what needs to happen at the connector. Once you get the hang of your first pin, the rest will be cake. I remember this video
Also - you may not need to extend the wiring, check the free length before you do. There is a lot of slack bunched up under the tank and no matter how much you stagger the joint, that extension knuckle is an enormous PITA to feed through. I extended mine when fitted 16" RSD's and only realised afterwards that it was totally unnecessary.
There is an inexpensive tool specifically made for removing those pins. If you have not totally fukkered up the plastic housing and lock mechanism by digging around with a paper clip, it still might work.
If you cannot find the tool or don't want to locate one, and are good with solder splicing wires, then go that route. It will work just fine and last for years if you do it right and cover the splices with heat shrink.
Another thing I found helpful was to file an angle on the end of the paper clip / probe. That way, the edge slides in a little easier and helps disengage the locking mechanism.
If you have bad eyes like me, get magnify glasses. Look closer, you will see plastic tabs locking pins. You only need a little push with a paper clip, not rocket science. You can do it!
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