Fork Rebuild
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,756
Likes: 195
From: Boise, ID
Fork Rebuild
So I'm putting new fork springs in on my 11 Street Bob. One of the deals is leaking a bit so I figured might as well do it at the same time. I've got the seal rebuild kits from Harley, springs, and fluid.
Anything I should know or tips someone can throw my way? Should I buy a seal driver or make my own?
Much appreciated!
Anything I should know or tips someone can throw my way? Should I buy a seal driver or make my own?
Much appreciated!
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 15
From: Bay area, CA
So I'm putting new fork springs in on my 11 Street Bob. One of the deals is leaking a bit so I figured might as well do it at the same time. I've got the seal rebuild kits from Harley, springs, and fluid.
Anything I should know or tips someone can throw my way? Should I buy a seal driver or make my own?
Much appreciated!
Anything I should know or tips someone can throw my way? Should I buy a seal driver or make my own?
Much appreciated!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 97
From: Northern VA
2" sch40 PVC works great to drive the seals in. There's a video on YouTube where a guy is installing chrome sliders that goes over the procedure. You'll need a long 12mm socket for the seat pipe bolt and the axle cap bolts are metric as well. I don't remember what size but standard Allen bits will strip the heads out
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 542
Likes: 4
From: Louisville, KY
Don't forget to use new copper washers on the bolts at the base of the fork tubes. They will leak and can not be reused. They are under like $1 for the pair anyway. Ask me how I know. 
Perhaps as mentioned, the axle cap is metric and has a front and back position. The thick end goes to the rear and the front will still show a small gap even when fully torqued. Thats per the FSM.
Perhaps as mentioned, the axle cap is metric and has a front and back position. The thick end goes to the rear and the front will still show a small gap even when fully torqued. Thats per the FSM.
Last edited by Mr Bentwrench; Jan 28, 2015 at 08:18 AM.
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,756
Likes: 195
From: Boise, ID
2" sch40 PVC works great to drive the seals in. There's a video on YouTube where a guy is installing chrome sliders that goes over the procedure. You'll need a long 12mm socket for the seat pipe bolt and the axle cap bolts are metric as well. I don't remember what size but standard Allen bits will strip the heads out
So I need metric allen wrenches then? I've got at least 1 set of metric, maybe even 2.
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,756
Likes: 195
From: Boise, ID
Don't forget to use new copper washers on the bolts at the base of the fork tubes. They will leak and can not be reused. They are under like $1 for the pair anyway. Ask me how I know.
Perhaps as mentioned, the axle cap is metric and has a front and back position. The thick end goes to the rear and the front will still show a small gap even when fully torqued. Thats per the FSM.
Perhaps as mentioned, the axle cap is metric and has a front and back position. The thick end goes to the rear and the front will still show a small gap even when fully torqued. Thats per the FSM.
Thanks! The washers are included in the rebuild kits I got from the dealer. They even have a new bolt. Pretty much what's in the pic but HD brand.
I'm glad you mentioned that axle cap part....I think that would have messed with me!
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,756
Likes: 195
From: Boise, ID
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 97
From: Northern VA
You're welcome. Good luck. When I took the dust covers off mine they were basically rusted on. Ruined them getting them off.
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 15
From: Bay area, CA
That's a good point. Get a brass drift to knock them off. Mine were a bitch too, be prepared to buy new dust covers
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 97
From: Northern VA
Tried the brass drift for over an hour then got out my giant bearing splitter. Clamped that down tight around the covers, smacked it with the deadblow and off they came. Bad design if you ask me.