FuelMoto Push Rods Adjustment
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,454
Likes: 58
From: Graysville, AL
FuelMoto Push Rods Adjustment
Hello, I just installed a Woods Roller Chain conversion on a friends 05 Dyna. I upgraded the tensioners and a set of TW-555 cams. He is using the STOCK lifters. I'm ready to install the FM adjustable push rods but have a few questions. I called FM about the adjustment once I'm at 0 lash and I believe the guy was new. He originally told me 4 turns and 2 flats. I informed him again I was using the STOCK lifters and then I heard him yell at someone asking about the stock lifters. He then came back to the phone and told me 4 turns and 0 flats. Just curious what you guys did? I have read a few extra flats will quiet down the valve train a little?
One last question, I'm OCD about getting the cams in the proper position for the push rod install. I've read about everything I can find on it. Is this the correct way?
Watching the rear cyclinder lifters, spin the rear tire until both rear lifters are moving at the same time (one moving up the other down). Now I am ready to install the push rods on the front cyclinder starting with the intake (closest to the engine). Am I understanding this right?
Thanks very much for the info and help!
One last question, I'm OCD about getting the cams in the proper position for the push rod install. I've read about everything I can find on it. Is this the correct way?
Watching the rear cyclinder lifters, spin the rear tire until both rear lifters are moving at the same time (one moving up the other down). Now I am ready to install the push rods on the front cyclinder starting with the intake (closest to the engine). Am I understanding this right?
Thanks very much for the info and help!
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 57
From: N Texas
Cannot remember the TPI for FM prs but the standard amount of adjustment is .100" which is half of the total travel of .200" of a lifter. Yes setting it deeper is known for quieting the valve noise, just would not go past .140" down, so why not shoot for about .120".
You are describing the S&S video method for finding TDC compression which works for many. Personally, I like to watch the prs/lifters on the cylinder I am working on: roll rear tire like it normally goes, exhaust up then down, then intake up then down - now with a drinking straw in the spark plug hole, slowly continue to rotate rear tire until you get the straw as high as possible( just need to be close, not perfect), now you are at TDC compression.
Hope I don't confuse you more, use whichever method you feel comfortable with, have fun!
You are describing the S&S video method for finding TDC compression which works for many. Personally, I like to watch the prs/lifters on the cylinder I am working on: roll rear tire like it normally goes, exhaust up then down, then intake up then down - now with a drinking straw in the spark plug hole, slowly continue to rotate rear tire until you get the straw as high as possible( just need to be close, not perfect), now you are at TDC compression.
Hope I don't confuse you more, use whichever method you feel comfortable with, have fun!
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,454
Likes: 58
From: Graysville, AL
Thank you! I have not seen the straw method used but that seems to be pretty simple. So just put the straw in the cylinder I'm going to install the push rods in. I then feel for the exhaust lifter on the cylinder to move up and down then the intake up and down. Move to the spark plug side and watch the straw move to its highest point then I'm ready to install both intake and exhaust push rods on that cylinder. No need to rotate engine until I do the other cylinder. Am I getting it now?
I will set pushrods length to .120 I just need to figure out the turns required for the FM rods.
I'll be doing this when I get off work this afternoon. Thanks very much for the help!
I will set pushrods length to .120 I just need to figure out the turns required for the FM rods.
I'll be doing this when I get off work this afternoon. Thanks very much for the help!
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 57
From: N Texas
Sorry slow to get back, on the road now. Yes you wrote it down perfectly, I will add that you should feel the air rushing out of the spark plug hole as you do this - another confirmation of getting to TDC compression.
I like this way for a few reasons, one being I like focusing on the cylinder I am working on vs the opposite cylinder.
As an example of calculating how many turns to get down to .120": S&S prs have a TPI of 32. So one complete turn = 1/32" which = .03125", now .120" divided by .03125 = 3.84 turns. So a shade under 4 complete turns, very close to 3 turns and 5 flats.
I like this way for a few reasons, one being I like focusing on the cylinder I am working on vs the opposite cylinder.
As an example of calculating how many turns to get down to .120": S&S prs have a TPI of 32. So one complete turn = 1/32" which = .03125", now .120" divided by .03125 = 3.84 turns. So a shade under 4 complete turns, very close to 3 turns and 5 flats.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,464
Likes: 50
From: Rouses Point, N.Y.
on my woods 555 ran the fuelmoto pushrods at 4.5 turns for a preload of .140 per bob woods instructions. the fuelmoto pushrods aka smith brothers are 32 threads per inch.with stock lifters & woods directional lifters.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,454
Likes: 58
From: Graysville, AL
Thanks for the info guys. I got the rods installed last night but haven't cranked the bike yet. I did 4 complete turns on the adjustment. Since it's not my bike and I won't be able to play around with the settings I figured I would go with FM recommendation.
I played around with all 3 methods of finding TDC and the cams lowest point. I used a straw which is very easy, the S&S video method of both lifters moving on the opposite cylinder and the FM method. I found the FM method very easy also. On the cylinder your working on rotate the engine and when the exhaust lifter is just beginning to come up the intake is at its lowest point. For the exhaust watch the intake go up then begin to start moving back down and the exhaust will be at its lowest point. I did this multiple times and felt the lifters moving and they are at the lowest point using this method.
Thanks again. I'm cranking the bike this morning so fingers crossed!
I played around with all 3 methods of finding TDC and the cams lowest point. I used a straw which is very easy, the S&S video method of both lifters moving on the opposite cylinder and the FM method. I found the FM method very easy also. On the cylinder your working on rotate the engine and when the exhaust lifter is just beginning to come up the intake is at its lowest point. For the exhaust watch the intake go up then begin to start moving back down and the exhaust will be at its lowest point. I did this multiple times and felt the lifters moving and they are at the lowest point using this method.
Thanks again. I'm cranking the bike this morning so fingers crossed!
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 57
From: N Texas
The FM method makes sense but I am not a fan of the term "lowest point", you are just trying to be on the "base circle" of the cam which is really a pretty big portion/arc of the cam. The FM method also makes you "locate" the base circle 4 times instead of 2 times like the other 2 options - like I mentioned, different people are comfortable with different methods so I am always hesitant to throw my method in the mix.
So sounds like the TPI is 32 like target64 said and FM wants them set at .125?
Lets us know how it goes, sounds like you are really on top of this, should run great!
So sounds like the TPI is 32 like target64 said and FM wants them set at .125?
Lets us know how it goes, sounds like you are really on top of this, should run great!
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 30
From: Ashburn, VA
I just installed the FM pushrods with SE204 cams and stock lifters. The instructions say 4 turns and their Youtube video says 4 turns 2 flats. I split it down the middle with 4 turns and 1 flat and my valvetrain is quiet.
Also, I agree with HD Pilot, his method is absolutely so easy to do and understand once you have the bike apart and the straw in plug hole. Also, you can do both rods on same cylinder so you only have to find TDC-Compression two times total for the complete job.
Also, I agree with HD Pilot, his method is absolutely so easy to do and understand once you have the bike apart and the straw in plug hole. Also, you can do both rods on same cylinder so you only have to find TDC-Compression two times total for the complete job.
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Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,454
Likes: 58
From: Graysville, AL
Did a triple check on everything and fired it up the next morning. The motor barely made one complete revolution before it fired. The oil light went off within a second or two and the valve train is very quiet. I did a 20 mile easy break in ride ( the owner runs the bike pretty hard ). The bike ran great with lots of power right where you want it in the rpm range. The bike owner was very pleased. I made a video and will try to upload.
Glad to hear all went well, would love to see/hear the video.