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Tire Balancing

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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 06:14 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by fxdlx
Looks like you are doing it the hard way.
15-20 min is all you need.
Use the 2X4 method of breaking the bead. (look on you tube) Then two 9 to 12" tire irons. Some plastic rim protectors and dish soap/water mix for lube.
The following is an example. Except he needs to turn the boards under the tire 90 deg so the foot in back is not needed.
Don't think you understood, I used to do it the hard way, with tire irons, till I got the motorcycle tire changer. It's quick and simple. I used to use the 2x4 method like in the video, but don't even need that anymore; tire changer has an easy breaker -



Nice for a rim holder to polish the rim and bearing changes, too.





Doesn't work without the right size tire, though.

 
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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 06:42 AM
  #22  
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Anyone done a pirelli night dragon 17 or 18" rear with the 2x4 home made breaker? Havent got one off with it, they are tight

If you do your own tires i would avoid this tire, you will have to cut off
 
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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 06:43 AM
  #23  
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Default wheel balancing

I have new rims and tires on order. They say they internally balance using a liquid goo of some sort. There concern is that they feel the "Dyna *****" score the inside of the rim and tires. Leaving them open to tire warranty issue with the manufacture if the tire was to fail for some reason. I would think this is for tubeless applications only. Has anyone heard of this ? I'll see how it works out.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 08:19 AM
  #24  
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for you guys changing your own tires, how do you do it? the only time i take my bike to a shop is to put on a tire and i dont even like doing that any more. i would love to learn to change my own tires.

Imold, tell me about that tire changer. How much and how well does it work? I saw something similar at Harbor frieght that was pretty cheap.

Alot of shops around here dont want to do "internet tires", which i understand because they are in the business of sellin tires, but dam you get good deal on internet tires.

To the OP, i have never had a mc tire rebalanced in between installs. To me i have never thought it needed it because a tire doesn,t really last that long anyway.

Now my michilin truck tires lasted 85,000 miles and i had them rotated and balanced afew times

I had a shop install dyna beads when i got a set of wheels powder coated and they seemed fine.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 01:46 PM
  #25  
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hell hound - I have a Cycle Hill, NoMar's lower cost brand, that I got used for a lot less than new. There are other brands, but NoMar's website has a lot of videos showing how to use their products - most changers will be similar. I suppose HF's cheap one works, but it sure looks crude compared to mine. Tires are pretty easy, haven't skinned a knuckle yet - sure have with irons. Getting the bead seated is a snap with tubes, but tubeless can be a pita; it helps if you use a chuck without a shutoff valve in it. I just took a cheap one, pulled the valve out, and drilled it as large as I could for maximum airflow; made a huge difference. Wide tires are easier than skinny, have more room to get the tools in. The only one that gave me grief was the skinny 21" front on my 1200, barely room to get the bar in to put it on, and trying to do it without pinching the tube.

I've seen guys on this forum say they paid $700 plus to have a new set of tires put on, riding the bike to the dealer. My changer (came with a balancer, too), hi lift jack, and a pair of Avon tires was less than that.

I was sure glad I was doing it myself when I changed the front tire on my 1200, a spoke wheel with tube; the rim had a crack running down the center of the butt weld for the rim, on the inside. There was just enough rust to cover it, but I cleaned the inside of the rim out real good, and then saw it. I doubt a shop guy would have bothered cleaning it, let alone look at it well enough to see the crack. Might not have even pulled the rubber rub strip out that covered it (I always use new rub strips and tubes for tube tires). I'd never even thought of that weld failing before...

Here's NoMar's website, just follow the links for their different changers and how to videos. http://www.nomartirechanger.com/
.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 03:12 PM
  #26  
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Default wobbles.....

If you all say you don't need to balance a tire and rim then tell me, what causes that so called "death wobble" at speeds in excess of 115 mph?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 07:38 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
If you all say you don't need to balance a tire and rim then tell me, what causes that so called "death wobble" at speeds in excess of 115 mph?
I've been over 115 many times on tires that weren't balanced.
Outta balance tires bounce up and down, not side to side as in 'death wobble'.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 07:38 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Imold
hell hound - I have a Cycle Hill, NoMar's lower cost brand, that I got used for a lot less than new. There are other brands, but NoMar's website has a lot of videos showing how to use their products - most changers will be similar. I suppose HF's cheap one works, but it sure looks crude compared to mine. Tires are pretty easy, haven't skinned a knuckle yet - sure have with irons. Getting the bead seated is a snap with tubes, but tubeless can be a pita; it helps if you use a chuck without a shutoff valve in it. I just took a cheap one, pulled the valve out, and drilled it as large as I could for maximum airflow; made a huge difference. Wide tires are easier than skinny, have more room to get the tools in. The only one that gave me grief was the skinny 21" front on my 1200, barely room to get the bar in to put it on, and trying to do it without pinching the tube.

I've seen guys on this forum say they paid $700 plus to have a new set of tires put on, riding the bike to the dealer. My changer (came with a balancer, too), hi lift jack, and a pair of Avon tires was less than that.

I was sure glad I was doing it myself when I changed the front tire on my 1200, a spoke wheel with tube; the rim had a crack running down the center of the butt weld for the rim, on the inside. There was just enough rust to cover it, but I cleaned the inside of the rim out real good, and then saw it. I doubt a shop guy would have bothered cleaning it, let alone look at it well enough to see the crack. Might not have even pulled the rubber rub strip out that covered it (I always use new rub strips and tubes for tube tires). I'd never even thought of that weld failing before...

Here's NoMar's website, just follow the links for their different changers and how to videos. http://www.nomartirechanger.com/
.
Yes I misunderstood.
Nice setup you have!
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 09:47 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by fxdlx
Yes I misunderstood.
Nice setup you have!
Thanks, it's fun having what I need to keep the bikes away from other people's hands. Old retired guys gotta have something to do.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 06:45 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by fxdlx
I've been over 115 many times on tires that weren't balanced.
Outta balance tires bounce up and down, not side to side as in 'death wobble'.
This is why I ditched Dyna Beads and went back to weights. They worked fine up to 80 or so, but then the front would start hopping. Took me a while to figure it out, but now the ride over 80 is nice and smooth.
 
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