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I've been running B&M Synthetic Trick Shift for three years with no problems (knock on wood). Clutch seems to work smoother and doesn't slip.
I ran the same for about 9 months, did not like what my compensator parts were looking like:
You can see the missing metal where the spokes of the compensating sprocket engage the sliding cam. The sliding cam is showing wear and the sproket retainer is getting scratches where it fits inside the compensating sprocket. I had cleaned the 3 pieces up before the pic but they had that red rusty burnt up residue all around the inside of the compensating sprocket and the same scratched up areas of the sprocket retainer.
I've never heard of anyone doing that. Don't know that it would be good. AT being high detergent and all.
atf in your primary is great, think off your car auto , they have gears, wet clutch plates, the same as your bike. its friction modifiers that stuff up clutch plates...read your owners manual Harley recommends diesel oil in your crank case ,, very high in detergent, the best oil for primary is around 30 weight..
atf in your primary is great, think off your car auto , they have gears, wet clutch plates, the same as your bike. its friction modifiers that stuff up clutch plates...read your owners manual Harley recommends diesel oil in your crank case ,, very high in detergent, the best oil for primary is around 30 weight..
This is exactly what I've been running in the primary, Valvoline SAE 30, in SAE viscosity grading charts SAE 30 engine oil is comparable to an SAE 80 to 85 gear oil in viscosity which is the viscosity of the Spectro Primary Chaincase Oil that Baker recommends. Keep your clutch adjusted and the clunking is non-existent and the shifting is snicky smooth.
Synthetics can be used in the primary if you want to do so, just be sure the 'energy conserving' rating isn't on the label, if you use a synthetic that's JASO-MA rated and you won't have any clutch slipping issues.
Only benefit I have heard of from using ATF was flawless clutch operation. That's stuff is like water compared to other primary fluids, so I would think it be a bit noisier if anything.
If you switch your tans fluid to Spector or Redline (something better than the factory stuff) much of those noises/harshness will be eliminated. I noticed a bigger difference when I switch out my trans fluid than the primary.
I run Mobil 1 75/140 in my transmission. The issues I had started when I put the ATF in the primary and ended when I took it out.
atf in your primary is great, think off your car auto , they have gears, wet clutch plates, the same as your bike. its friction modifiers that stuff up clutch plates...read your owners manual Harley recommends diesel oil in your crank case ,, very high in detergent, the best oil for primary is around 30 weight..
Lot of bigger differences here except for the Harley wet clutch looking the same. However, the automatic transmission has a high pressure pump with filtered oil. It does not have that large heavy side loaded roller bearing like the inner primary bearing. The AT clutches are actuated by springs and hydraulic pressure releases them. The crude cast finish ramps and highly loaded compensator bearing. I have seen it recommended by certain clutch makers but it leaves me thinking all they are concerned is their after market clutch and not the overall whole primary..strange. The years that Harley had the compensator like HDpilot's look like that with any oil. The case hardening on the sprocket rams was way too shallow due to production cuts by the mothership..The ramps in my older style are the same angle and show no fretting are were thru hardening even after 40K. However, the bearing of the shaft extension and compensator sprocket shows wear and galling.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 11:10 AM.
i switched to ATF in my primary about 2k miles ago. Maybe my scenario is not typical, but it made a tremendous difference in the ease of shifting.
This winter, I bought a 2010 Ultra with 2900 miles on it, and the bike would creep every time I would come to a stop, like the clutch was still grabbing slightly. So I adjusted the clutch, no improvement. Readjusted the clutch 2 more times, no improvement. So I drained the Formula + out of the primary and went to synthetic 20W50, same as my crank oil. Maybe a very slight improvement, but not enough to know for sure that there was a difference.
So after reading about 100 posts/articles/arguments about what to use in the primary, why use friction modifiers and why not, why not stick with Formula +, why, why, why, etc.....
I decided to give synthetic ATF a try. It worked fantastic, the shifter "clicks" into gear now with very little shift lever pressure compared to almost stomping on the lever previously to engage a gear, and the creep has completely gone away as well. I couldn't be happier with the change. Finding Neutral is like it should be and not a 1 minute endeavor moving the bike back and forth. I have not noticed any audible difference coming from the primary as some mentioned a whining noise when using ATF, I can't tell a difference in noise.
I have no idea as to why this worked so well for me, or what my actual problem is with using the conventional primary fluids, but for now I am sticking with the ATF. I may try to use Formula + again at my next oil change and see if it goes back to the hard shifting and creeping, and if it does, then I will stay with the synthetic ATF for good.
You are probably putting too much oil in since what you describe is from too much. The thinner ATF would create less oil windage between the plate. That is the drag if indeed you have the clutch set correct. It is very easy to not get all the play out of the clutch before the 3/4 turn back off. Then, you have too much play and not enough lever travel to break clutch plate far enough apart. However, for the clutch, ATF works better then anything. The problem is what else that is being torn up from too thin of oil is also important.
I've been running Type F from walmart since '99. No probs.
When I got my '03 RK (used) the compensator did some weird slipping **** while feathering the clutch on take off. I switched it over to type F. Probs got better then gradually went away.
You are probably putting too much oil in since what you describe is from too much. The thinner ATF would create less oil windage between the plate. That is the drag if indeed you have the clutch set correct. It is very easy to not get all the play out of the clutch before the 3/4 turn back off. Then, you have too much play and not enough lever travel to break clutch plate far enough apart. However, for the clutch, ATF works better then anything. The problem is what else that is being torn up from too thin of oil is also important.
a lot off cars also use ATF in their gearboxes these days, just run what makes you happy. and don't get fooled by the typical Harley bullshit ( it must be only the best) :i con_fryingpan:
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