Yet another primary oil level thread
"Pour 26 oz of primary chaincase lubricant in through the clutch inspection cover opening. The primary chaincase lubricant level is acceptable when lubricant is visible in the bottom of the chaincase with the motorcycle standing upright."
So I poured 26 oz of primary chaincase lubricant in through the clutch inspection cover opening. No primary chaincase lubricant visible in the bottom of the chaincase with the motorcycle standing upright though, in fact, no lubricant was visible in the chaincase at all.
So I added some more primary chaincase lubricant in through the clutch inspection cover opening until the primary chaincase lubricant level was visible in the bottom of the chaincase. ... with the motorcycle standing upright of course. It wound up being about 36 oz of primary chaincase lubricant total.
So now everytime I pull the bike out to ride it I get this horrifyingly loud and unpleasant clunk when I first put the bike into gear. Didn't do that before.
I am using Mobil 1 10w40 motorcycle oil, which was recommended so as to avoid any friction modifiers, and was supposed to be the correct viscosity.
That damn oil costs ten bucks a quart.
Drain some out and have faith in the manual?
It does appear that the oil level is around the bottom of the diaphragm spring... where it's supposed to be according the wisdom of the fora.
stupidest design, why doesn't cheap *** Harley just put a slight glass in like every other manufacturer I don't know,, you buy a $4,0000 250 cc ninja and it has a site glass for the oil level..
maybe this is why I seem to have a little trouble getting mine into neutral.
I guess you could try sticking a tooth pick or something in there to try & read the oil level.
I only use the dealer stuff in the primary, just so I know nothing will mess up the clutch.
Last edited by LunaticFringe; Apr 30, 2015 at 08:53 PM.
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The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders

You guys with inspection covers have got the best of all things. You can actually ADJUST your primary chain
I always adjusted the primary chain and clutch at every primary fluid change. I'd open the inspection and derby, make the adjustments with the bike cold then button her up and take her for a nice ride to warm everything up then I'd dump the fluids in all 3 holes. At that point you only need to remove the inspection cover again, keep the derby in place.If you're having problems finding neutral or shifting issues adjust your primary chain and clutch COLD, follow the SM procedures and it will be on the money. If you use the correct amount of lubricant, keep the clutch and primary consistently adjusted you'll be surprised how smoothly you can find neutral and shifting will be much improved, no sight glass needed or concerns about how much lubricant is in the primary, you'll know it's right by the feel.

Me, I miss the old way of doing things, I've got no love for the current HD primary auto adjuster with no inspection cover, that's HD being cheap, and my next upgrade is to replace the stock automatic tensioner unit with a Baker Attitude manual adjuster, might as well replace the stock compensator with the Baker unit while I'm in there, I'll just have to pull the primary cover to make the primary adjustments, oh well...
The loud clunk is now conspicuously absent.
Learn something new every day.
Thanks for the advice.


