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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Just bought an 09 FXD with 5500 miles on it and I'm not 100% sure that the vibration I'm feeling is normal. I don't have a tac but it when lower in the RPM range (more noticeable when decelerating than accelerating) I get this, what I would call bad vibration through the whole bike. I currently have a 1200C Sportster and a 05 FLHT and I'm never felt a vib this bad. To be honest I thought it was a wheel that was out of balance but once I pulled the clutch in and the motor dropped below the vibration point the bike was smooth. I'm assuming this is just a normal Dyna thing but wanted to double check.
Some increased vibration is normal below 2500 rpm, but it will be much worse (particularly on decel) if the motor mount has sagged to the point that the gap which is supposed to be there, is no longer there. There has been a service bulletin on this. If the rest of the mount looks to be in pretty good shape, a lot of folks fix it by trimming some of the rubber to get the proper gap back (the gap should be about .040).
The photo below shows one that has sagged (there's no gap anymore), and where to look for it. You trim some of that rubber hump on the bottom away to get the gap back. It made a night-and-day difference on my bike. If I remember correctly, I was able to get in there with a box cutter after putting a jack under the engine to give me a little more room, and didn't need to remove the mount from the bike.
Another way that can sometimes work to get the gap back is to loosen the motor mount bolts, jack the engine up so the bolts are at the top of the slop in their holes, and then re-tighten the bolts to hold the engine in that raised position.
Last edited by Warp Factor; Jun 23, 2015 at 06:54 AM.
So this is right up front like under where the oil filter is? I've been poking around on here and found that some people were putting a shim or some washer between the front mount and frame. They would loosen the bolts, see how large the gap is, and fill it with washer.
Ahh I see what you are talking about now.... found this thread that shows a good before and after shots. Going to give the cutting/shaving the stock mount a shot.
So this is right up front like under where the oil filter is? I've been poking around on here and found that some people were putting a shim or some washer between the front mount and frame. They would loosen the bolts, see how large the gap is, and fill it with washer.
The front rubber isolator is a rather ill-conceived idea and prone to failure due to being placed under stress or oil contamination from oil filter removal. My '13 Wide Glide was purchased new last May and the isolator had already begun to collapse due to being stressed and my WG exhibited all sorts of odd vibrations and shuddering. I didn't waste time with the local dealer hoping they'd replace the isolator, I bought a new one and installed it last June. I followed the vehicle/engine alignment procedure in the SM and needed to use shims and longer grade 8 bolts to put the isolator were it wants to actually sit. I've had no vibration issues since then and the rubber is showing no signs of distortion, had I simply installed a new isolator without the alignment and using shims the new isolator would have been under stress once again setting it up to fail.
If you find your isolator is distorted or pulls away from the frame you may be better served by replacing it and starting fresh, I don't believe you'll get as good of results with an isolator that's already been stressed and distorted. The HD fix was to cut the rubber so it wouldn't make contact but I feel replacing the isolator and mounting it correctly is a more appropriate solution
This is my WG, you can see where the new isolator wanted to be once the alignment was done...
I certainly feel better now knowing that several people (even with new model years) are having a similar problem that seams to have a simple solution. I'm going to take a look at my mount tonight when I get home. I'll try the cutting the extra off first then shimming it (free/cheap fixes first) and if that doesn't work buy a new mount. I agree with you on the oil filter location. Now that I have two big twins I decided it was time to invest in something to help with oil changes. I bought this no-drip oil change funnel off amazon last night. Its made by Ernst and from the reviews sounds like it should be a great way to change the filter with out getting oil everywhere. I used to use some aluminum foil to make a funnel and that worked OK but not 100%
Because of the angle of the rear shocks, it's normal for the drive train to be pulled back in the frame against its rubber mounts. The more weight on the bike, the more it is pulled back.
Installing a new front mount without shims helps pull the drive train back forward where it's supposed to be.
Because of the angle of the rear shocks, it's normal for the drive train to be pulled back in the frame against its rubber mounts. The more weight on the bike, the more it is pulled back.
Installing a new front mount without shims helps pull the drive train back forward where it's supposed to be.
How long will they last without the shims. Are the failures really due to being oil soaked while changing oil or just a bad design? It sounds like the mount it being pulled away from the frame and thus being pulled apart. I already drop about $100 on oil change every year...don't want to start spending another $100 on a mount every year or so too lol.
Just clean off the excess oil after each change. Brake cleaner, etc.
If the mount is installed and aligned correctly it should last awhile. I think the reason that some front mounts don't last very long is that when they're installed at the factory they are overstressed because they are not shimmed and the rubber is pulled too tight when the mount is bolted up.
Here's a pic of my current mount. I started to cut it flat but we got some heavy rain (tornado warning stuff) so I couldn't finish. Judging by the bolts and some surface rust I'm now seeing on the rear springs and chrome cap on the passenger side of the swing arm I'm guessing this bike sat outside for a little while at some point.
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Normal Vibration?
