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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
The problem with the newer Dyna master cylinders isn't it bleeding or leaking externally, but internally and not maintaining a firm lever feel which causes the brake light to flicker.
One other note, on the 14+ Dyna's you don't need to worry about the damage to the brake switch that all the older bikes have a chronic problem with. The new style brake light switch is designed to eliminate this problem.
One other note on this, applicable to the 14+ bikes, the bracket that holds the brake switch into the bottom half of the switch housing is problematic in some of these bikes. I'm waiting on a replacement for this piece for mine now because the light wasn't coming on at all. The joys of new designs and how they are completely different from the previous versions.
After a few years wrenching, you will discover that whenever possible, electrical parts are best replaced and not repaired...
That surdyke link lists a different part number. How do I cross that to the 71621-08?
Sometimes a repair is fine. Other times not. My turn signal.canceller died and it's all potted. Not at all practical to repair. I just replaced it.
This was a mechanical failure of an electrical part. Easy fix.
I've also replaced blown caps on circuit boards with good success. No point in buying a $200 controller that's out of production when a simple fix is all that's necessary.
In this case, the switch is good. It just needed a plunger.
The part number I gave you is the part number for the front brake switch for a 2014 Street Bob according to Ronnies...
The switch you pictured looks like part number 71590-96, the generic switch HD has used for years and are all over the interweb for $15-18.
The part number you posted is for a kit which includes the switch. Kits are typically composed of overpriced bits and pieces included with the switch such as heat shrink tubing, zip-ties, screws, etc, needed to complete the repair. If you haven't lost any hardware and can get to an auto parts store, and can make a decent solder splice, you don't need the kit, just the $15 switch.
For those of us who like to run with old school whips attached to the brake lever, this causes a similar problem. your going 80 mph and the whip is going 80 also. I have smoked 2 brake/run bulbs in a very short time. I've been running with a whip for about 3 years, there is enough drag to engage the brake lever. The factory installed my apes and I have not had problems until the last year or so. I installed new handle bars on my previous Street Bob and lost the copper shim in the process. I never had a problem. i just WD-40'ed my slim and problem not as severe. I am going to dig in to the housing tonight. Forgot to mention I got rocked in a t-storm yesterday. Will update my findings. I know after 40 years, the front brake light switch can be a nuisance.
Check with your dealer on a warranty replacement on the master cylinder. I had mine replaced on my 14 FXDL about a month ago when it was doing the same thing. Seems that there was a streak of problems in the 14 Dynas.
Yep - this! Same thing happened to my '14 FXDF. Master cylinder replaced under warranty and the issue disappeared.
It's a known problem - your dealer should cover it for you.
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