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Front brake lever causing brake light to flicker

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Old Nov 6, 2015 | 05:14 PM
  #21  
CornbredNE's Avatar
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Originally Posted by CornbredNE
The problem with the newer Dyna master cylinders isn't it bleeding or leaking externally, but internally and not maintaining a firm lever feel which causes the brake light to flicker.

One other note, on the 14+ Dyna's you don't need to worry about the damage to the brake switch that all the older bikes have a chronic problem with. The new style brake light switch is designed to eliminate this problem.
One other note on this, applicable to the 14+ bikes, the bracket that holds the brake switch into the bottom half of the switch housing is problematic in some of these bikes. I'm waiting on a replacement for this piece for mine now because the light wasn't coming on at all. The joys of new designs and how they are completely different from the previous versions.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2015 | 06:05 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by cggorman
Link? Even the cheap eBay switch is $25

Regardless, I always try to repair before replacing. I'm frugal like that. My time is free and I enjoy wrenching.
Here you go...

http://www.surdyke.com/AdvPartInfo.a...umber=71500118

These things are all over the interweb...

google is your friend.

After a few years wrenching, you will discover that whenever possible, electrical parts are best replaced and not repaired...
 

Last edited by skinman13; Nov 6, 2015 at 06:13 PM.
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 07:36 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by skinman13
Here you go...

http://www.surdyke.com/AdvPartInfo.a...umber=71500118

These things are all over the interweb...

google is your friend.

After a few years wrenching, you will discover that whenever possible, electrical parts are best replaced and not repaired...
That surdyke link lists a different part number. How do I cross that to the 71621-08?


Sometimes a repair is fine. Other times not. My turn signal.canceller died and it's all potted. Not at all practical to repair. I just replaced it.

This was a mechanical failure of an electrical part. Easy fix.

I've also replaced blown caps on circuit boards with good success. No point in buying a $200 controller that's out of production when a simple fix is all that's necessary.

In this case, the switch is good. It just needed a plunger.
 

Last edited by cggorman; Nov 7, 2015 at 07:50 AM.
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 08:12 AM
  #24  
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The part number I gave you is the part number for the front brake switch for a 2014 Street Bob according to Ronnies...

The switch you pictured looks like part number 71590-96, the generic switch HD has used for years and are all over the interweb for $15-18.

The part number you posted is for a kit which includes the switch. Kits are typically composed of overpriced bits and pieces included with the switch such as heat shrink tubing, zip-ties, screws, etc, needed to complete the repair. If you haven't lost any hardware and can get to an auto parts store, and can make a decent solder splice, you don't need the kit, just the $15 switch.

Good luck.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 08:17 AM
  #25  
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Yeah, I wouldn't need or want a kit. Just a switch with pigtails. I got my part number from here:
St. Charles link
 
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Old Jun 18, 2016 | 05:35 PM
  #26  
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For those of us who like to run with old school whips attached to the brake lever, this causes a similar problem. your going 80 mph and the whip is going 80 also. I have smoked 2 brake/run bulbs in a very short time. I've been running with a whip for about 3 years, there is enough drag to engage the brake lever. The factory installed my apes and I have not had problems until the last year or so. I installed new handle bars on my previous Street Bob and lost the copper shim in the process. I never had a problem. i just WD-40'ed my slim and problem not as severe. I am going to dig in to the housing tonight. Forgot to mention I got rocked in a t-storm yesterday. Will update my findings. I know after 40 years, the front brake light switch can be a nuisance.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2016 | 03:53 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by CornbredNE
Check with your dealer on a warranty replacement on the master cylinder. I had mine replaced on my 14 FXDL about a month ago when it was doing the same thing. Seems that there was a streak of problems in the 14 Dynas.
Yep - this! Same thing happened to my '14 FXDF. Master cylinder replaced under warranty and the issue disappeared.

It's a known problem - your dealer should cover it for you.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 07:24 PM
  #28  
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DIY is great, and gives one a sense of self satisfaction. However, my time alone is worth more than that. But then again, $15 isn't much money for me.
 
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