2001 FXDX - complete electrical failure
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4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2015
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From: USA
2001 FXDX - complete electrical failure
I have a 2001 Dyna FXDX. It was last running two mnoths ago -- no problems. It has been on a float charger since then.
When I tried to start it this AM, the electrical system turned on as expected and there was a momentary sense that the engine was turning over. Then a strange "clunk" and complete electrical shutdown. No current to starter, no lights, nothing electrical is working. I pulled the seat and checked the battery. It showed 12.5V and no indication that it wanted to be charged. There is a very faint smell like a blown capacitor. No obvious shorts, breaks or other indications of electrical failure. One very strange phenomena is that when the key is left on (either Acc or Run), the electrical system comes back on (lights, etc) for about 5 seconds once a minute or so.
Any help would be appreciated:
Thanks
When I tried to start it this AM, the electrical system turned on as expected and there was a momentary sense that the engine was turning over. Then a strange "clunk" and complete electrical shutdown. No current to starter, no lights, nothing electrical is working. I pulled the seat and checked the battery. It showed 12.5V and no indication that it wanted to be charged. There is a very faint smell like a blown capacitor. No obvious shorts, breaks or other indications of electrical failure. One very strange phenomena is that when the key is left on (either Acc or Run), the electrical system comes back on (lights, etc) for about 5 seconds once a minute or so.
Any help would be appreciated:
- where can I find an electrical schematic for this bike?
- any thoughts on what I should check first? I have ruled out a loose connection or similar by "wiggling" everything I can touch with the seat removed to see if something might trigger an electrical response. Nothing does
Thanks
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 9,282
Likes: 1,139
From: southeast PA
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...-part-1-a.html
Check the ground cable, it must be clean tight, just like the battery terminals.
Check all fuses, make sure they have continuity and clean tabs. Look at the relays, the tabs can get corroded.
Even if the battery shows 12.5 V sitting, it may not have enough cranking power to spin the starter. You can get the battery load tested for free at most auto supply stores.
You could have faulty/dirty ignition or starter switch.
Check the ground cable, it must be clean tight, just like the battery terminals.
Check all fuses, make sure they have continuity and clean tabs. Look at the relays, the tabs can get corroded.
Even if the battery shows 12.5 V sitting, it may not have enough cranking power to spin the starter. You can get the battery load tested for free at most auto supply stores.
You could have faulty/dirty ignition or starter switch.
Last edited by nevil; Dec 12, 2015 at 12:14 PM.
Thread Starter
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4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2015
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From: USA
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...-part-1-a.html
Check the ground cable, it must be clean tight, just like the battery terminals.
Check all fuses, make sure they have continuity and clean tabs. Look at the relays, the tabs can get corroded.
Even if the battery shows 12.5 V sitting, it may not have enough cranking power to spin the starter. You can get the battery load tested for free at most auto supply stores.
You could have faulty/dirty ignition or starter switch.
Check the ground cable, it must be clean tight, just like the battery terminals.
Check all fuses, make sure they have continuity and clean tabs. Look at the relays, the tabs can get corroded.
Even if the battery shows 12.5 V sitting, it may not have enough cranking power to spin the starter. You can get the battery load tested for free at most auto supply stores.
You could have faulty/dirty ignition or starter switch.
- the system is now maintaining some electrical power once the key is turned to acc or run
- I have checked every fuse and every connection in the starter circuit -- all look OK
- main circuit breaker works
- Ignition switch is OK
- starter relay is working
- + side of the circuit seems OK to the starter/solenoid
- negative side cables and connections look good
- solenoid seems to be receiving power and there is a distinct clunk when triggered
- solenoid does not seem to be engaging and starter motor is clearly not turning
- voltage across starter drops from 12.5V to approx 5V (some variation) when attempting to start bike
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 16,013
Likes: 7,139
From: Sandy Eggo's North County
#10.
You always want to "load" test a battery.
If yours goes from 12.5V to 5V (when cranking), there's your problem!
It should drop to 11V or more. Over 12V is a healthy battery.
You always want to "load" test a battery.
If yours goes from 12.5V to 5V (when cranking), there's your problem!
It should drop to 11V or more. Over 12V is a healthy battery.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 34
From: Wisconsin
I have a 2000 FxDX, I had strange electrical problems that would randomly sit me on the side of the road. I replaced every dxmn thing, regulator , main fuse, relays, battery cables, etc. after having the battery load tested - twice. I learned a lot, the most important thing I learned was to replace the battery- first.
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4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2015
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From: USA
Going directly to a new battery would have saved some time (if that IS the problem), but looking at everything has been valuable because it forced me to examine every fuse, every contact, every relay, etc., which was educational and is probably a good idea to do every now and then
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