i have an '06 low rider and would like to learn how to adjust the clutch. the clutch lever is almost all the way out before the bike starts to roll. does anyone know if this is a fairly simple process?

 

It is very simple. On your left frame downtube, where the clutch cable clamps to the frame, there is an accordian type boot cover. Underneath this cover is the adjustment joint. Loosen the jam nut and the the long hex-head sleeve to achieve the adjustment you want. It should be adjusted so their is just slight slack in the clutch lever. retighten the jam nut and replace boot cover.

Hope this helps.

 

I hope you do not mind me adding some clarity to your comment. What you described was a cable adjustment, not the clutch itself.
The cable adjustment only provides the proper slack at the lever (1/8 inch max) but does nothing to affect the clutch adjustment/engagement point.
Actual clutch adjustment is a more involved exercise, and it is important to do it correctly.........pg

 

I'd actually like to change the engaging point of the clutch...not adjust the cable. any help?

 

PG, your comments are welcome and appreciated. I mistook what he was asking for. Thanks!

 

If you feel the clutch is out of adjustment, you should still be under warranty and the dealer may help. The alternative is purchase a manual. Read it over a few times. Then take it to the dealer to adjust. You will know what you are paying for.
Adjusting a clutch is no big deal, if you know how. A good tech can adjust in a few minutes.

 

that 06 should not need adjusted already. i think you just need to adjust the free play on where it grabs. no biggie.takes about 4 mins at the most . if it is not slipping. do not worry about it .

 

Try going here in the DIY section it is pretty easy to do and it only takes about 15 minutes tops.


https://www.hdforums.com/m_70839/tm.htm

 

You are not going to be able to change the point that your clutch engages.
This is a function that is governed by the distance the clutch spring(s) compress to release the clutch, and then return back to engage the clutch, as you let out the lever.

However, here is your drill to adjust the clutch.....and you should check this every 5000 miles or so.

1) Have the bike at ambient temperature (Not running and cool to the touch)
2) Remove the 5 Torx screws that hold on the clutch bonnet. Careful with the O ring gasket.
3) Loosen up the adjustment under the accordian boot as jmpancoast described to give you some cable slack.
4) Back to the clutch bonnet....... Loosen the locknut on the clutch center. I think this is a 13/16 size.
5) Turn the center screw in (clockwise) until it just touches. Work the clutch lever to be sure the ***** are seated in the ramps.
6) Now back out the center screw 1/2 to 1 full turn (counterclockwise) This ensures that the clutch is fully engaged.
7) Tighten the jamnut 72 to 120 inch lbs while holding the set screw in place with the allen wrench.
8) Squeeze the clutch lever 3 or 4 times to make certain the ***** are still seated in the ramps.
9) You are almost done. Back at the clutch lever, turn the cable adjuster to remove all play in the cable at the lever. Pull the cable ferrule away from the lever, and then go to the cable adjuster and give the cable slack. The proper amount of slack is 1/16 to 1/8 inch at the lever.
10) You are now ready to install the bonnet cover and O ring.
Wipe all of the oil from the chaincase, the bonnet cover, and the O ring. Install the O ring in place in the groove in the chaincase and put the bonnet cover on.
Install the 5 Torx screws, screwing them in until they hold the cover and O ring in place.
The 5 screws get torqued to 84 to 100 inch lbs each in sequence.
The proper sequence is as follows:
12 o'clock......7 o'clock......2 o'clock......10 o'clock.......and 5 o'clock. Turn each a bit at at time and work them in evenly until you hit the torque value.

That is the way you adjust your clutch and ensure that it is not slipping. I think you will find that the clutch still engages at the same point referring to your lever as before. If the lever is a problem, you can buy aftermarket levers that are a different shape. These come back closer to the bar grips, so that someone with small hands/short fingers has a more comfortable grip on the clutch business........pg

 

This is the step that determines when the clutch engages. Backing out 1/2 turn is "normal". 3/4 turn is good if you feather the clutch during low speed maneuvers.

Below is a complete step-by-step, posted by Harris on the VTF.

Do this:


First, the bike must be cool when you do the clutch adjustment.

1) Slide the rubber boot off the adjustment nut assembly, in the clutch cable. Use a ½” and 9/16” wrench to loosen the jam nut back, then induce the maximum amount of slack.

2) Completely pull the clutch lever. Remove the “C” clip from the bottom of the clutch lever retaining pin, at the clutch lever, then slide the lever from the bracket, so it’s hanging by the cable.

3) Squirt Bike Aid lube into the cable just until it drips out of the jam nut assembly.

4) Remove the clutch inspection cover, loosening the screws in a “star” pattern. Use a sharpee pen, and mark the inside of the cover, to indicate which hole is the one that was on top. Always install the cover so that that hole is the top.

5) Loosen the 11/16” nut in the center of the clutch housing.

6) Using an allen wrench, loosen (counter-clockwise) the clutch adjuster screw, which is inside the 11/16” nut you just loosened.

7) This is the critical step. Gripping the shaft of your allen wrench with just your thumb and index finger turn it back (Clockwise) just until the point that you feel the least resistance. NO MORE!

8) From that point, loosen it back (Counter-clockwise) ½ turn to one full turn. If you use the clutch to control the motor at low speeds, you should use ¾ turn. ½ turn is for “normal riders”, who use the clutch like an on/off switch. 1 turn is appropriate for a police bike in city traffic service.

9) Holding the allen wrench, so the screw stays in position, tighten the clutch adjustment nut. There is a torque value, but unless you have a crow’s foot, you can only tighten it so that it’s snug. If you are using an open-end wrench, take care not to let it slip off the nut, since you will be at an angle to the nut. If you do have a crow’s foot, it calls for 8 to 10 ft.lbs.

10) Replace the cover, making sure the gasket is good. Tighten the screws in a star pattern, to 50-70 inch pounds of torque.

11) Again add Bike aid to the cable, until it drips from the jam nut assembly.

12) Replace the lever in the bracket, being careful not to bend the black plastic anti-rattle shim. Install the “C” clip.

13) Tighten the cable at the jam nut assembly. Once it is roughly tightened, pull the clutch lever three times to seat the ball and ramp in the mechanism. Then tighten to the point that there is about 1/16” of free play at the lever. If you pull the cable housing out from the lever, the edge of a nickel should just fit between the shoulder of the cable, and the bracket.

Harris