Arlen Ness Twin Sucker
Arlen Ness Twin Sucker
So I had ordered a Arlen Ness Twin Sucker for my '16 FXDB, along with a few other things.
Basically Revzilla screwed up my order for my Air Cleaner/Exhaust/FP3. They sent me the wrong version of everything. After talking with them, they're giving me a $200 credit towards use on their site.
My question is, does anyone use this air cleaner? Or is there a better one for the VH Short Shots I'll be installing?
Basically Revzilla screwed up my order for my Air Cleaner/Exhaust/FP3. They sent me the wrong version of everything. After talking with them, they're giving me a $200 credit towards use on their site.
My question is, does anyone use this air cleaner? Or is there a better one for the VH Short Shots I'll be installing?
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: southeast PA
Any intake you get will flow enough air. It really comes down to how it looks and that's your decision. I had one of the metal mounts on my Big Sucker fail, so I went with an intake with external breathers. Just something to consider.
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Northwest
Unless you delve into 'ram tube' design, all the name brand air filters/intake are going to flow more than your stock combination of valve lift/size, bore/stroke & headwork.
Stage 1 items? Line them all up and choose the ones you like the looks of.
Now then, when you start getting into some motor work, now you really need to pay attention what's on either end of your air pump.
I always explain it this way: Consider your intake, motor, exahust - as three tubes of equal diameter joined together - unless you change the diameter of all three... you're really not affecting performance.
The caveat to that, and it IS designed in, is that your stock engine (valve lift/size, bore/stroke & headwork) has the capacity to flow more than your stock intake and exhaust.. that's why everybody sells aftermarket parts.. lol
I will add... that 'most' aftermarket items are designed to not hinder WOT... and therefore are not great in the lower rpms. Think back to early hot-rod days, and folks putting ram tubes on Hilborn injection bodies... they did that to not only isolate the intake pulses from other cylinders, but it also increased the speed of the intake air charge (because they were tapered)... this adds to the lower end of the power band.
Stage 1 items? Line them all up and choose the ones you like the looks of.
Now then, when you start getting into some motor work, now you really need to pay attention what's on either end of your air pump.
I always explain it this way: Consider your intake, motor, exahust - as three tubes of equal diameter joined together - unless you change the diameter of all three... you're really not affecting performance.
The caveat to that, and it IS designed in, is that your stock engine (valve lift/size, bore/stroke & headwork) has the capacity to flow more than your stock intake and exhaust.. that's why everybody sells aftermarket parts.. lol
I will add... that 'most' aftermarket items are designed to not hinder WOT... and therefore are not great in the lower rpms. Think back to early hot-rod days, and folks putting ram tubes on Hilborn injection bodies... they did that to not only isolate the intake pulses from other cylinders, but it also increased the speed of the intake air charge (because they were tapered)... this adds to the lower end of the power band.
Last edited by archergodwin; Apr 16, 2016 at 09:20 AM.
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