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2011 street bob fall away test

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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 05:07 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by dave_simpson
Also the po put these handlebars on and the forks cannot slide up enouh to be in spec. I think the book calls for 11-13 mm above the top tripple and i only got 5-6mm...
The handlebars.., or risers


Ghost
 
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 05:22 PM
  #22  
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Does not mater were the center is. Since balance affects that. Just check the distance unless your's requires the back and fort and then back again. Those are usually the ones with little rake in the steering head.
However, you should be able to lock it up. Be sure your triple tree is un-clamped like it calls for. Go for the low in of the fall away and try the bike. Too tight take all the handling out of a Softail or Dyna. Those tapered roller bearings do not need to be tight.
Check your alignment on that motor and it's mount since that swing arm can be wagging all over the place hanging off the motor on a Dyna setup.

Not sure if taking your hands off the bars to see if it wobbles is a good thing unless you can actually fill it tugging bars. I sure would not be doing that.
You have a heck of a sail in the back with those bags.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Aug 21, 2016 at 05:29 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 01:32 PM
  #23  
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ok here goes- the wobble doesnt happen with one or two hands on the bars.

worse means it was more violent and it was quicker to get crazy. which was close to the point i had to grab the clutch due to low rpm.

I bought the bike used and it only has 2500 miles so i dont notice any abnormal vibration.

i got it up to 60 mph and let go to see if it wobbles in every gear (except 6th) and it does wobble in evey gear about at the same rpm point- which is that uncomfortable point where you feel like the bike is going to lug so i grab the bars and pull in the clutch. grabbing the bars makes it stop wobbling.
i dont have risers and the handlebars are like a 6 inch straight line at the bottom- which basically means the top of the fork hits them. so the forks are slid down in the tree with a very small gap so they dont hit the handlebars- at this distance i only got 5-6mm when i should have 11-13mm- not sure if that affects anything.

the tire on the mag wheel is more worn that the one on the spoke wheel- both wobble. the other days test i aired up to 34 psi and checked with 2 different gauges.

the roads in italy are the crappiest roads ever old wore out asphalt is all that is close to my house where i have been testing it. ridding home from work one day i tried it and still got the wobble- still crappy road but not as bad as the road by my house.

i have not checked anything else cause its a pain in the a$$. have to remove bags and everything cause of the full fender.

thanks again for everyone's feedback!
 
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 03:21 PM
  #24  
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Got it..., not a vibration per se..., rather a wobble

First

Originally Posted by dave_simpson
i dont have risers and the handlebars are like a 6 inch straight line at the bottom- which basically means the top of the fork hits them. so the forks are slid down in the tree with a very small gap so they dont hit the handlebars- at this distance i only got 5-6mm when i should have 11-13mm- not sure if that affects anything.
Higher up in the clamp the forks are installed - increases responsiveness - to a point (after which really bad things start happening)

Mine are a smidgen under 5/16 (~8 MM)

imo 11-13 MM is excessive - others may disagree.., you could always add a minimal riser to gain additional space



As to the wobbles


Originally Posted by dave_simpson
ok here goes- the wobble doesnt happen with one or two hands on the bars.

worse means it was more violent and it was quicker to get crazy. which was close to the point i had to grab the clutch due to low rpm.

I bought the bike used and it only has 2500 miles so i dont notice any abnormal vibration.

i got it up to 60 mph and let go to see if it wobbles in every gear (except 6th) and it does wobble in evey gear about at the same rpm point- which is that uncomfortable point where you feel like the bike is going to lug so i grab the bars and pull in the clutch. grabbing the bars makes it stop wobbling.

the tire on the mag wheel is more worn that the one on the spoke wheel- both wobble. the other days test i aired up to 34 psi and checked with 2 different gauges.

the roads in italy are the crappiest roads ever old wore out asphalt is all that is close to my house where i have been testing it. ridding home from work one day i tried it and still got the wobble- still crappy road but not as bad as the road by my house.
34 psi is low imo.., try 40 (cold) front and back - what I run (WG)

Warning - be sure to check recommended / max tire pressure on side of tire and don't exceed the Max - 40 psi should be within limits

How are the wheels balanced - weights.., beads.., ride on

If weights.., may need to get them re-balanced

Regardless - have them checked for balance


Try all this ^...,let's see if we gain/ lose anything

Ghost
 

Last edited by Ghost_13; Aug 22, 2016 at 03:23 PM.
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Old Aug 23, 2016 | 11:36 AM
  #25  
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ok its gonna take some time to get the wheel balanced- might try to swap the tire with the best tread to the mag wheel and have it balanced...
 
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Old Jun 27, 2017 | 02:25 AM
  #26  
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2016 Street Bob.

When doing a fall away adjustment, do I loosen the upper or lower triple tree pinch bolts (don't have my Service Manual handy)?

Thanks
 
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Old Jun 27, 2017 | 07:41 PM
  #27  
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Dude, i'll lay money your front motor mount is crap! Check the clearance as per Harley's TSB of .020-.040" clearance and I think you'll find your problem. You can go back a few pages and find the motor mount thread and it will have the TSB in it. My '16 Wide Glide's mount went south at 1k miles, and it's the same mount your bike takes.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2017 | 12:51 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Ghost_13
I've attached a pic to reference

You loosen fig 6

Then adjust fig 9 to "snug"

Then torque fig 6..., while holding Fig 9 stationary with a punch or screwdriver


Is this the sequence you're following


Reason I ask is that I haven't read where you reference adjusting the star nut (fig 9)


Ghost
Could you please clear up some confusion I seem to be having.

With regard to your attached pic, fig.1 shows the upper pinch bolt, correct?

And we are not supposed to loosen this upper pinch bolt (fig.1) to perform the fall away adjustment, also correct?

Thanks
 
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Old Jun 28, 2017 | 02:16 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by drspencer
2016 Street Bob.

When doing a fall away adjustment, do I loosen the upper or lower triple tree pinch bolts (don't have my Service Manual handy)?

Thanks
Upper only. Loosen pinch bolts and stem nut prior to adjusting the star nut.

As you tighten the star adjuster nut, the stem and lower triple clamp will move upward (imperceptibly) along with the forks and wheel. The upper triple clamp is then drawn down against the star nut by the stem nut. The upper triple holds the adjuster stationary. If you don't loosen the upper pinch bolts things could bind, bend, or break.
 

Last edited by cggorman; Jun 28, 2017 at 02:25 AM.
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Old Jun 28, 2017 | 09:21 AM
  #30  
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What CG said ^

Looking back over this - I don't think I even mentioned loosening the upper pinch bolts - my **** up..., duh

Ghost
 
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