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How difficult a job is this by myself and is it worth the effort? I've got a dead/flat zone where my bike stutters no matter what gear at the same RPM range (typically 2200-2500) and it makes commuting around town at lower speeds incredibly herky jerky.
I had the same issue with my Buell and I think it could be the TPS. How difficult is this to replace and will I need to take it to a dealer afterward to recalibrate? Thanks for any advice (2014 FXDB)
If you're capable of pulling the air cleaner and have the right size torex bits to remove the TPS, it's piece of cake. The initialization process after replacing the TPS ... With the RUN / STOP switch in the run position, switch the ignition switch to IGN for 30 seconds, then OFF 30 sec, repeat two more times so you've switched it on and off three times total.
If you don't already have one, you should think about buying a service manual ... worth every penny.
I just did this to mine, had similar problems with whacky idling, flat spots, jerky ride, etc.
I pulled the main fuse. Took off air cleaner assembly. 2 bolts remove the TPS. Put new TPS on, torque to spec, plug sensor wires back in, re-install air cleaner and main fuse. Done.
Mine's an '05, so no zeroing or adjustments were needed. Took me about 20+ minutes. Back to normal idling and much smoother ride.
Rad! I have the service manual, I think my question is broken down more to A) if you think this would solve the problem and B) if there is any recalibration that only the dealer can do. I think you guys answered B for me - so do we think this would solve the issue? Also any idea what could cause the TPS to go bad or not perform as it should?
Hard to tell with the information given. Studder at a specific rpm could be a number of things. Best place to start is your most recent mod or maintenance before the problem. Did you change anything or did this just start without any reason? Chances are the tps would be bad at all positions if it just went south by itself.
Nah was like that when I bought it stock (used) from the dealer. Didn't really start bugging me till I put the go-fast parts on and it became that much more noticeable.
EDIT: just took it for a ride and I'm wondering if it isn't the physical throttle or throttle cables that might be sticky at the mid point of twist?
If you're feeling anything sticking in the throttle that's not good, it should be smooth through the full stroke. Suggest that you pull the air cleaner cover and filter so you can watch the blade. If you see the blade hang and then jump start isolating each component until you find the culprit. Figuring out whether it's the throttle grip, cable, arm or blade, you're on your own, but at least it's not rocket science. Find the sticky part and fix the problem. It could be as easy as rerouting the cables. Throttle nd / or return.
How difficult a job is this by myself and is it worth the effort? I've got a dead/flat zone where my bike stutters no matter what gear at the same RPM range (typically 2200-2500) and it makes commuting around town at lower speeds incredibly herky jerky.
I had the same issue with my Buell and I think it could be the TPS. How difficult is this to replace and will I need to take it to a dealer afterward to recalibrate? Thanks for any advice (2014 FXDB)
I'm currently having a symptom of my 2014 fxdb stalling at closed throttle when coming to a stop. Starts right back up and happens once every 10-15 miles in the city. Instead of spending money on diagram manual and test equipment I'm gambling and just replacing the tps sensor that arrives in 4 days. I'll keep y'all posted.
This might not be part of your problem, but the owners manual gives the intervals at which you should lube the throttle cables. This involves disconnecting the cables at both ends and spraying in lube from a can with the little straw nozzle. There are some very clear utube videos showing how to do this. They made the job doable for me.
It's keyed and no adjustment. So it's plug and play. What will kill it and other sensors along with the IAC is spraying cleaner in the throttle body and washing black crud up into these parts.
One of the problems with the TPS is those darn screws are loctited in there. It's real handy to take a hot iron and hold it to the screw head. Make darn sure your tool is quality and good shape.
Do you have a optional tuner modifying Harleys' ECM?
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