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I want to use switched power on my '16 FXDLS for my impending oil cooler install. There's an adapter that plugs into the diag connector - male on one end, female on the other and a couple of wires for the switched power, but I can't seem to find it for dynas on the HD accessory online shop. It's there for touring models, but not mine. I don't have service manuals for the touring models so I can't compare wiring diagrams/pinouts to mine.
i still have a switch from the speed kings incident. you can it, free.99
i bought and then returned the housing and first switch, i special order the the second one, no returns on that stuff. nothing i can do with it.
Last edited by cvaria; Sep 11, 2016 at 10:18 AM.
Reason: switch miscount swear i orded two to fill out the housing... can't find the seconds... even order say i bought 2
I don't get what that buys me Cvaria? That looks like a switch? I was asking about a switched power source - i.e. power thats on only when the engine is running/ignition on. I don't want to go straight to the battery cause with the under sized batteries on the 110's I dont want the fan drawing power after I shut down and the thermal switch heat soaks.
Guess that'll work. But if there's an existing accessory port anywhere, I'd like to know about it. Diagram shows accessory power going to the rear light harness. On mine it looks like that pin isn't used on the harness going to the fender. Maybe I could get a pin and crimp to that. I have to go take a look and see if that pin is indeed unused.
Diagram says it's pin 6 on connector 7b.
Now that I think about it, that may be the best way to go if it is indeed free.
Look at that - answered my own question.
Sorry for the waste of time.
Added: Will you look at that... manual says the connector is a Tyco Multilock 070 - same type as used on the front sigs, which I bought a bunch of pins for when doing my bars. Handy.
I don't get what that buys me Cvaria? That looks like a switch? I was asking about a switched power source - i.e. power thats on only when the engine is running/ignition on. I don't want to go straight to the battery cause with the under sized batteries on the 110's I dont want the fan drawing power after I shut down and the thermal switch heat soaks.
Or am I misunderstanding your post?
you'd combine this with the adapter you already found or this one:
this is the one we've been (myself and robbyville)
the power comes from the switched diagnostic port (only power when ign/run is on). the bar switch let you control on/off if you want to (basically becomes a breaker switch). your ultra cool also has an led indicator tells you when the fan is on or off. you could route that led into the housing on one of the blank spots (in-line behind the switch) rather than drill your forks or the other insane s*** recommended by ultracool.
I guess my hazy under coffee' brain didn't put that together.
Just picked up the adapter from the local dealer. I'll probably just wire it in directly. I'm not planning on using the LED, at least not now. How does the extra connector fit in the fuse box? I was thinking about dissecting it so the only wire coming out is the one power, and ditching the rest of it. I don't leave my PV on full time so I don't need the pass through I don't think.
Question, the two photos - which is the current one? Top or bottom? Looks like bottom, but I can't see where the joined connector is? You have "old" above the bottom photo, but it also shows the three butt connectors which are part of the new harness. The top photo doesn't show them though.
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switched power
