I tried searching but I notice that feature is a little bit "literal" so it seems that there could be a hundred ways to describe my issue and 99 of them would not show up in search. Also, let me know if this should be in the Mechanical-type area. I figure I'll start with folks with the same bike just in case it is model specific (seriously doubt it.) Anyway, bought the 2016 LRS new in SC a few months back. Everything is bone stock, well it was, until last week when I put some V&H slip-ons on it. Little louder than I was looking for but it seems I am the only one that notices and I don't see any diff in running. The issue has been present before and after. Short version: motor dies right after a short blip and right before I start to let the clutch out from a stop. First thing I would tell "me" is that I am killing the motor with too much clutch too soon. So, to address that, been riding about 45 years, I actually do know how to ride safely and defensively (I didn't buy the pipes to save my life, I can handle that part,) I was an instructor, back when they called them that, for the MSF in a very large city. They don't let just every yahoo that asks teach people to ride. They actually asked me while I was taking a course for the insurance discount. They REALLY make you earn that small paycheck. Point being, I don't stall bikes because I never learned to ride. Also, it has never happened before on any of the many bikes I've owned. Now, I completely understand how a carb can do that by essentially pausing the air flow to a near standstill when you whack the throttle (wide) open. Of course there is no cable nor carb so I don't have that opportunity. Ride-by-wire seems more like a suggestion from the rider while the bike decides if it is a good idea. Anyway, I can't duplicate the problem, no way, no how. It ONLY happens ( probably a total of 5 or 6 times in as many months) as I prepare to pull away from a stop. In gear, quick little "vroom" bouncing up just a tad above idle since the bike will pull away at idle if you're careful. It is clearly the quick but very small twist of the wrist. But, with no cable and no "can't work a clutch issues" I simply cannot figure out what causes it. And actually, the motor is dead before the clutch lever ever breaks contact with the grip. I'm hoping the answer is something like, they just do that, don't worry about it. I can imagine what a bother it would be trying to get the service dept to take something with so many possibilities seriously. So, I'm trusting your collective wisdom and experience to help me figure out what to do differently or at least, to learn to live with it.
Sorry for the loooong description but I sometimes think it is the only way to make sure I've done my part in describing the whole thing. Plus, I mostly write detailed crap for a living so I'll blame that, too.
Thanks!

 

I've been jacking off for that long - still can't get it right



Can you be more succinct and less verbose

Motor dying when you blip it (at a stop)

Motor dying after you blip..., then start releasing clutch to take off

Motor dying as you're releasing clutch to take off (sans the blip)

Something else entirely


btw - why all this blipping

1.) it efi

2.) properly tuned bikes need no blipping - they idle fine


Put this skill to work then..., distill your original post down

Thx
Ghost

 

I gave up after the first vertical inch of text, but if you are having stalling issues, have you brought it to the dealer? Maybe you said that and if so, sorry. But they can check for error codes. May help. Being under warrantee its free too...

 

I'm not afraid of a little reading and I don't have anything better to do, so....

Interesting that it's intermittent. I hate intermittent issues. Thinking back, is there any environmental commonality among the "bad days"?

I'm not versed on the technical specifics of the HD EFI system, but if it were a car I'd suspect the idle air control valve system is incapable of "correcting" for your fast near-idle blips.

 

I'd really start at the dealer - it might be as simple as a diagnostic read of the ECM to show some error... Before you start tearing into it.

 

What is your idle RPM?
Since it is "intermitant" could it be fuel quality/brand related?
How about ambient temperature?
How much throttle "free play" do you have, knowing you are " ride-by-wire?"
Does this amount seem to "change" like hydraulic clutch release points do?
Are you sure you are in first gear?
Is one or both brakes dragging more than they should?
These are just some of the things that can cause your issue, after ecm/fuel/spark tables have been ruled out.
I'm an RC also...

 

It's a tough read.

I cannot compare mine evenly, since it has a PV map, but it certainly has different mannerisms in the colder weather. I am not much of a "blip" guy, but it certainly does produce an intake cough when done on a cold engine, I noticed. Perhaps in stock tune mode, it would produce a stall.

I would take it to the dealer OR tune it

 

My '14 Lowrider did that after I did an exhaust change and a fp3 download. Although it wouldn't die, it would come close. I was going to try a different download but thought I would first play with the low speed fuel enrichment settings. My first attempt fixed it. I believe I gave it a bit more fuel but can't remember for sure. It was a while ago.

 

My only experience with throttle-by-wire is in cars, and I can attest that it does some strange things when paired with a manual transmission. In a modern "electronic" car, throttle-by-wire is basically seamless with an automatic transmission (or something like a dual clutch setup), because the ECU is controlling everything together, and understands the inputs being received from the driver. However, a manual transmission adds the driver as an unknown variable, and the ECU doesn't always understand this variable properly (remember when Captain Kirk always beat Mr. Spock at 3D chess, because he couldn't anticipate an "illogical" move?).

When I drive a manual transmission in a throttle-by-wire car, it's easy for the ECU to get confused, and "illogical" blipping is a common source for this confusion. The ECU doesn't understand why I'm blipping the throttle if there is no mechanical need to do so, and it tries to undo my input. I suspect that something similar is happening, although of course I could be wrong...

If it doesn't like your throttle blipping, the solution may be as simple as not blipping unless you're rev-matching a downshift...

 

The only Harley rider I know who "rev-matched" during changing down, is me! And that's only if I'm on the binders, hard.
Maybe Pascal Picotte too, but that's about it.

Well, maybe Scotty Parker too, but that is IT!


LOL 😆