Aftermarket Motor Mounts
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 209
Likes: 30
From: SC Lowcountry
What options are there to reduce vibration on the WG?
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 8,758
From: Galt's Gulch - MI
Being certain your Wide Glide is in correct alignment is the first step; proper vehicle/engine alignment will keep vibrations as low as they can be, but it's still a 45° V-Twin that has out of balance forces, vibrations are the nature of the beast
With the Predator mount it may alter the felt vibration through the RPM range but the trade off is improved handling and chassis stability which is much more important to me; I expect HD's to shake and have vibration, it's the squirmy feel to the chassis I don't like
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 11,448
Likes: 2,299
From: NW Ohio
Yeah, I doubt that any of the aftermarket isolators I've seen would reduce felt vibration more than the stock ones. Maybe some carefully tuned liquid dampers that don't exist.
Be sure the stock front isolator is in good shape and that the top doesn't need trimmed or shimmed. Then make sure the vehicle alignment is good.
There is a TSB for this.
Be sure the stock front isolator is in good shape and that the top doesn't need trimmed or shimmed. Then make sure the vehicle alignment is good.
There is a TSB for this.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 8,758
From: Galt's Gulch - MI
Yeah, I doubt that any of the aftermarket isolators I've seen would reduce felt vibration more than the stock ones. Maybe some carefully tuned liquid dampers that don't exist.
Be sure the stock front isolator is in good shape and that the top doesn't need trimmed or shimmed. Then make sure the vehicle alignment is good.
There is a TSB for this.
Be sure the stock front isolator is in good shape and that the top doesn't need trimmed or shimmed. Then make sure the vehicle alignment is good.
There is a TSB for this.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,440
Likes: 148
From: Northwest
The Predator has the isolating rubber material in 'compression', one plate on top of the other, instead of the stock mounts which rely mostly on shear resistance... the rubber in the middle holding the side plates in a vertical/shear type of force...meaning it shouldn't wear nearly as quickly. But the piece in the Predator looks completely replaceable if necessary.
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 673
Likes: 30
From: Warrington England
I'm not sure if it's worth pointing this out,but the whole point of the Predator Front Mount,is to reduce engine Vibration levels through the frame,by keeping the engine from contacting the frame.
making high tech anti engine vibration mounts is what the company do.
the improved engine stabilizing is a by product of the way they believe the mount should be designed.
This info is based on what i have read on their website & several forum threads,but,there is always a good chance that i am wrong,again.
making high tech anti engine vibration mounts is what the company do.
the improved engine stabilizing is a by product of the way they believe the mount should be designed.
This info is based on what i have read on their website & several forum threads,but,there is always a good chance that i am wrong,again.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 232
Likes: 59
From: Round Rock TX
NO BBC copied Chopper Hauss. BBC are a bunch of crooks. That guy is no scum bag and he is known for ripping people off and copying other designs and claiming as his.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 209
Likes: 30
From: SC Lowcountry
When you guys talk about stability and the shimmy, you're referring to how the front end wobbles back and forth a little bit at higher speed, right? Mine does that when I get up to about 75mph. It's somewhat unnerving.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 8,758
From: Galt's Gulch - MI
You're on the path now. And the Wide Glide also brings a few added points in; the 80/90-21 front tire, those OEM Scorchers are simply awful. A +2" on the front fork tubes, and those forks are wildly undersprung.
First step is to do the vehicle/engine alignment; I replaced my front isolator very early on and did the alignment at the same time; I needed to shim out the isolator 1/4" to put it where the bike wanted it. Lasted for a time but I know it's starting to fail again so this time I bought the Predator.
Tires; I run Pirelli Night Dragons, I got those nasty Scorchers off well before 1k miles. The front is a 90/90; between the size, composition, and profile, the improvements were dramatic. I upgraded the front forks with heavy springs; now the bike is firm and planted, it doesn't run wide in corners or require mid-corner corrections. Straight line stability to well above legal speeds is now solid.
The Dyna is sensitive to its alignment so begin there; be certain it's correct, then look at the front isolator; they can look fine but be failing due to oil contamination from oil filter removals; no guarantee that just because it's not contacting the engine bracket the rubber is not becoming distorted as you're riding the bike. Upgrading the front fork springs will cost you just over one Benjamin, and the Night Dragons; the only tires I'll run on a heavy cruiser
I'm moving to the Predator mount simply because it's a superior design and I'm done buying OEM crap only to need to change it out again a few seasons later; if vibrations are a bit more noticeable at certain RPM ranges the trade off in added stability is more than worth it...