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I've installed forward controls on two previous bikes (another Dyna and a Sportster) the "right way" by removing the inner and outer primary cases, compensator, clutch basket, etc, etc. It is, as anyone who has done it knows, a huge pain in the ***.
I'm thinking about taking the hacksaw-blade-to-the-shifter-shaft short cut this time around, as it seems to work well.
Question: how difficult is it to remove the shift arm from the transmission (which is longer than stock when installing forwards) without taking off the primary cases? Has anyone done this? Advice, thoughts, ideas?
I've installed forward controls on two previous bikes (another Dyna and a Sportster) the "right way" by removing the inner and outer primary cases, compensator, clutch basket, etc, etc. It is, as anyone who has done it knows, a huge pain in the ***.
I'm thinking about taking the hacksaw-blade-to-the-shifter-shaft short cut this time around, as it seems to work well.
Question: how difficult is it to remove the shift arm from the transmission (which is longer than stock when installing forwards) without taking off the primary cases? Has anyone done this? Advice, thoughts, ideas?
You might want to keep in mind that a lot of installation instructions, service manuals, etc. are written by technical writers that never picked up a wrench in their lives but can talk up a storm. The 2005 and earlier kits did not require removal of the primary and came with a bracket to lock down the original shift shaft lever, and it used the original trans lever. Why the change in the 2006 kit? Why did they make the front and rear levers longer in the 2006 kit? Maybe it was designed to increase labor income at dealerships? Who knows. I got the 2005 kit because it was cheaper at the time. Info below works (The wrong way to do it), and I have no issues ten years later.
Originally Posted by WS6 formula
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's The 2006 and up kit instructions says you have to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A) with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06) that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole I used a 5/16"-18 x 1-3/4" Chrome Plated Steel Carriage Bolt, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level angle, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
(You may have to change the rear transmission shift lever only if your using the 2006 and up kit and have a hard time finding neutral. This is caused by a longer front shift lever on the 2006 and up kits which in turn will take less movement of your foot to change gears or go into neutral.)
Last edited by WS6 Formula; Mar 26, 2017 at 09:49 AM.
Thanks, man. Helpful. I'd actually seen this post before.
Just so I'm clear, can I leave the stock shorter transmission arm on with the forwards? And if I do so, should I expect issues finding neutral/shifting? It's a 2016 Dyna and I'm using the post-2006 forward control kit (from JP, not the Harley version.)
Thanks, man. Helpful. I'd actually seen this post before.
Just so I'm clear, can I leave the stock shorter transmission arm on with the forwards? And if I do so, should I expect issues finding neutral/shifting? It's a 2016 Dyna and I'm using the post-2006 forward control kit (from JP, not the Harley version.)
What works is what I posted above, I don't know anything about the JP kit. You can try using the original lever, if you have issues you can still change it without removing the primary. Click on the last link in my previous post.
Thanks, man. Helpful. I'd actually seen this post before.
Just so I'm clear, can I leave the stock shorter transmission arm on with the forwards? And if I do so, should I expect issues finding neutral/shifting? It's a 2016 Dyna and I'm using the post-2006 forward control kit (from JP, not the Harley version.)
You can leave the mid shaft in the primary but you need to secure it somehow so it won't be swinging around as you ride. There are brackets out there that secure the arm to the cylinder base.
To clarify: Yes, like I said, I am removing the shifter shaft and plugging the hole. I'm referring to the arm that comes off the actual transmission that connects via linkage to the shaft you're referring to. The stock arm is approximately 2 inches shorter than the replacement arm offered in the forward kit. If I leave the shorter arm on the transmission (it's connected far behind the inner primary) will that cause a shift problem?
I was unable to get the arm off on both my 15 Fxdb and 17 fxdls without pullin the primary. I installed the forwards and left the oem arm on on both bikes and couldn't find neutral from first, and it was hard as hell in second. I had to slightly rev it sometimes to get into neutral. I ran them like this until I had time to replace it. The new arm is longer. It really isn't that big a job to pull the primary if you've done it before. You should definitely change it.
I was unable to get the arm off on both my 15 Fxdb and 17 fxdls without pullin the primary. I installed the forwards and left the oem arm on on both bikes and couldn't find neutral from first, and it was hard as hell in second. I had to slightly rev it sometimes to get into neutral. I ran them like this until I had time to replace it. The new arm is longer. It really isn't that big a job to pull the primary if you've done it before. You should definitely change it.
Originally Posted by Frozen Crome
I took every ones advice and did it my self. I did not have to split the primary at all. First I took the shift lever off and slid the shaft to the inside and used a pnumatic hack saw with a normal hacksaw blade and guided it with my finger and riped right through the shaft and pulled it out. I did have to unplug the spark plug wires and move them out of the way. I then loosened the trans shifter arm and with a 90 degree screwdriver I was able to pry the splines open a little bit. I tiped the top of the shifter arm towards the engine and there was enough clearance to sneak it out. The new shaft was already was never compressed so I did not have to pry it at all I just put it down in there at an angel and it slid right on no problem and I did not have to force anything it went right together about an hour and a half.
Just to add---
At first I left the mid shaft in and bolted in place with the provided bracket. Also left the trans shifter arm in place-finding neutral was damn near impossible with my foot so I'd reach down and find neutral with my hand. After a couple months of that I researched this board and found some write ups like the one above.
I went from underneath with a hacksaw blade and was able to cut through the mid shifter in about 10 min. by hand. I was able to access the transmission arm set screw with a regular screwdriver from above-turning about a 1/4 turn at a time. I don't own a 90* screwdriver-so its possible with a regular one. After I got the set screw out I pried open the splines with the screwdriver and was able to wiggle the thing off. Carefully slid the longer one in place and tightened down the set screw 1/4 turn at a time. The shifter arm job took 15-20 minutes. So the whole job is doable without any specialty tools with a little patience. If you have a 90* screwdriver I'm sure it goes quicker.
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Forward Controls- Dyna
