jack(s) for changing engine mounts / isolators?
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Joined: Jun 2014
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From: NW Ohio
jack(s) for changing engine mounts / isolators?
I'm headed out later to get some other stuff and think I'll swing by Harbor Freight in the process. While making my shopping list, it occured to me that I should probably get a jack or two for my engine isolator installs.
I'll be doing both front and rear and have a HF/Sears Red style jack/lift.
Is there a good or bad choice for jacks used to support the engine during the isolatpr install?
I've been thinking about getting one of the small scissor platforms but not sure if they are suitable for this.
What have you used?
Thoughts?
Oh, not sure if it matters, but I'll probably have the entire front end, tank, exhaust, & rear wheel off while doing the mount work.
I'll be doing both front and rear and have a HF/Sears Red style jack/lift.
Is there a good or bad choice for jacks used to support the engine during the isolatpr install?
I've been thinking about getting one of the small scissor platforms but not sure if they are suitable for this.
What have you used?
Thoughts?
Oh, not sure if it matters, but I'll probably have the entire front end, tank, exhaust, & rear wheel off while doing the mount work.
Last edited by cggorman; Apr 14, 2017 at 10:01 AM.
Outstanding HDF Member
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From: Philly Suburbs
I just got the cheapest scissor jack they had at Sears. I position it under the front of the motor with a small block of wood on it, while the bike is upright on a lift (in the air or with a little bit of weight on the tires). I can actually turn it by hand enough to unload the front mount without needing to attach the handle. It made the job super easy and very quick.
Outstanding HDF Member
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From: Philly Suburbs
Definitely. That's exactly what I did the first time I needed to do this. But the jack was so cheap that I decided it was worth having in my garage, rather than having to remove my spare tire (since my jack is under it).
Outstanding HDF Member
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From: Philly Suburbs
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: Philly Suburbs
I've never done the rear (but will soon). I don't think your image will work as well, since it seems to make contact with the frame (unless you positioned a block of wood just right).
Last edited by F86; Apr 14, 2017 at 10:54 AM.
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You can't disconnect the front and rear it will be hell getting it lined back up. Do one at a time. You might snap the top stabilizer. That would be all that's left. You can't snug either up until the wheels are on the ground id do the rear first before loosening the front then the front.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 865
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From: Los Angeles,ca
There's easier way for front! You can use just your regular lift, and put 1/2 inch plank under cases(between frame rails). that's enough to remove tension from the mount and allow you perfectly align holes. Worked for me - i was nicely surprised how easy it was