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Problem after Stage 1 Upgrade

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Old May 8, 2017 | 09:47 AM
  #1  
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Default Problem after Stage 1 Upgrade

So I just installed a DK Customs 587 air cleaner, V&H short shots with the quiet baffle, and a V&H Fuelpak (LED version) on my 2011 Wide Glide. Bike ran great for a few days. Then on a cold morning last week (about 40-45 F), it started popping. It sounded louder than normal decel pops, but I'm not 100% sure that it was backfiring. After it popped once or twice, the bike seemed to overcompensate anytime I got into mid-range RPMs. It would start sputtering a bit and the speedometer would drop. If I hit the clutch, everything would come back. I was able to limp home by keeping the RPMs low and hitting the clutch when needed (about a mile).

After some searching, tried messing with Mode 23 on the Fuelpak to stop it from overcompensating for the decel pops. Same problem. V&H support said "check the throttle position mode"... which I knew sounded wrong but tried anyway. Didn't fix anything. Tried pulling the main fuse multiple times along the way too. Better for a minute but always seemed to come back. Said screw the Fuelpak and took it off completely. The bike ran better, but would occasionally pop/lose power, but seemed to come right back after adjusting itself. It was also a little warmer (about 55-60 F). I rode a good 100 miles this way and seemed to stop having problems.

Today, taking the bike to work on a cold day again, and the problem came back. Any thoughts? I know, I know, everyone's first response will be the LED Fuelpak sucks. I should have listened. But do you think it's a mapping problem (like I corrupted the map) or something else? (Maybe something is loose after trying to cram that Fuelpak up under the seat)

If it is a mapping problem? Thoughts on best fix? Something relatively plug and play - I'm just learning to wrench a bit and don't want something overly complicated. Would uploading a new map (like with an FP3) do the job? I've been reading good things about the FuelMoto guys, but what's the best option? Is the Power Vision relatively easy to use without getting a dyno tune?

I'm wondering if it might be electrical too with the loss of power, but it all began after using that dang Fuelpak. If all else fails, time to call the local indy.

Thanks in advance.
 

Last edited by TORG; May 8, 2017 at 02:12 PM. Reason: Added model
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Old May 8, 2017 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by TORG
So I just installed a DK Customs 587 air cleaner, V&H short shots with the quiet baffle, and a V&H Fuelpak (LED version). Bike ran great for a few days. Then on a cold morning last week (about 40-45 F), it started popping. It sounded louder than normal decel pops, but I'm not 100% sure that it was backfiring. After it popped once or twice, the bike seemed to overcompensate anytime I got into mid-range RPMs. It would start sputtering a bit and the speedometer would drop. If I hit the clutch, everything would come back. I was able to limp home by keeping the RPMs low and hitting the clutch when needed (about a mile).

After some searching, tried messing with Mode 23 on the Fuelpak to stop it from overcompensating for the decel pops. Same problem. V&H support said "check the throttle position mode"... which I knew sounded wrong but tried anyway. Didn't fix anything. Tried pulling the main fuse multiple times along the way too. Better for a minute but always seemed to come back. Said screw the Fuelpak and took it off completely. The bike ran better, but would occasionally pop/lose power, but seemed to come right back after adjusting itself. It was also a little warmer (about 55-60 F). I rode a good 100 miles this way and seemed to stop having problems.

Today, taking the bike to work on a cold day again, and the problem came back. Any thoughts? I know, I know, everyone's first response will be the LED Fuelpak sucks. I should have listened. But do you think it's a mapping problem (like I corrupted the map) or something else? (Maybe something is loose after trying to cram that Fuelpak up under the seat)

If it is a mapping problem? Thoughts on best fix? Something relatively plug and play - I'm just learning to wrench a bit and don't want something overly complicated. Would uploading a new map (like with an FP3) do the job? I've been reading good things about the FuelMoto guys, but what's the best option? Is the Power Vision relatively easy to use without getting a dyno tune?

I'm wondering if it might be electrical too with the loss of power, but it all began after using that dang Fuelpak. If all else fails, time to call the local indy.

Thanks in advance.
Since it was running ok and changed, check to see if your exhaust bolts worked their way loose on the heads. May be causing a leak which could throw off your tune.

Revert back to your original tune to test - a short test ride won't hurt anything. If the problem goes away, its the tune. If not, its not the tune...

Also state the model and year of your bike so others don't have to ask.
 

Last edited by Mchad; May 8, 2017 at 10:15 AM.
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Old May 8, 2017 | 10:25 AM
  #3  
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Cold weather requires additional enrichment. Popping can sometimes be caused or exaggerated by a lean condition.

Check for intake and exhaust leaks and if that's OK see if the FP has temperature-based enrichment and, if so, bump up the enrichment a bit.

Also, since it seems related to RPM, you may have a fuel delivery problem. Fuel filter/pickup screen clogged, or low pressure (hole in in-tank hose seems pretty common)
 

Last edited by cggorman; May 8, 2017 at 10:29 AM.
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Old May 8, 2017 | 12:04 PM
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All good points so far.
Might be a coincidence but having an intermittent problem like that could be electrical. Having loose or dirty battery and ground cable connections can make things happen like you experienced. Especially with the speedo dropping out and coming back.
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 02:18 PM
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Thanks! Sorry, I added the model - it's a 2011 Wide Glide. I'll go back and re-check all of that. I'm an IT guy, so this one is probably "User Error" somewhere on my part. Hopefully, one of these will fix it. Well, I'd rather make a few mistakes along the way learning how to do it myself than pay someone else to do it (until I get in over my head, anyway). I'll post results when I get it going again to let you know what happens.
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 03:13 PM
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Torg being an IT guy, sell that LCD Fuelpak and get yourself an FP3 it is awesome and the autotune funtion is brilliant.
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 05:23 PM
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When my wide glide was at stage1( se Heavey breather , v&h big shots, dealer down load) it had a lot decel pop, did power commander and bypass 02 sensor with dyno tune it was better but still popped. Did cams, heads, another dyno run with a better dyno tuner decel pop long gone, decel pop sucks. Not saying do what I did is the best or only way to go, but if it was I would do it again . It does not hurt anything just annoying driving an out of tune bike.you will get by it, good luck!
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 05:50 PM
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Most likely an exhaust leak you have to retorque more than once after so many miles
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 07:12 PM
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I don't have much experience with Harley's but I don't mind sharing what little experience I do have in the hope that it just might help.

After installing V&H 3in slip-ons and FP3 onto my LRS - my bike had lots of decel popping. I did the auto-tune and things would get better, then cranked up the fire-cracker setting in the FP3. Each fire-cracker increase would help reduce the decel popping but didn't eliminate it. I also noticed that cold temps made the bike ride rougher - engine sounded louder and increased decel popping. I didn't like have the FP3 firecracker setting set to max - because according to V&H it will decrease Fuel mileage.

So, I decided to start all over again with the FP3. Re-downloaded the default Map for my bike and exhaust from V&H. Uploaded - and the decel popping mysteriously went away. Did an auto-tune session and response and power further improved. Didn't need to use the FP3 firecracker setting at all so now it is turned off. I quickly deleted the previous "Bad Map" and saved the new one. All is well.

And yes - the bike still rides a little rougher in colder weather. I'm not sure why, but the engine just doesn't sound/feel as smooth as when the weather is warmer. There is also some decel popping when it's cold out. So now in colder weather, I simply put the wind sock on and it seems to improve the response in cold weather better.

I know this doesn't exactly address your specific issue/problem. But sometimes starting over may help things - in my case it actually solved the problem and also helped to me to learn some of the character flaws in my Harley... it doesn't like when it's too cold outside .... and it doesn't like when it's too hot outside either (totally different story though).

Good luck... and Wag on...
 
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Old May 9, 2017 | 08:28 AM
  #10  
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Look at all the things you touched doing the upgrade. Electrical connections, bolts...etc. Happening when cold is good indicator of something loose.
 
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