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Save yourself some time and aggravation and pull it all down, intake and all, clean/rebuild...use good parts...and tune it like the sticky in the carb section says, and you should be good to go...it takes some practice and trying settings and going through a few pairs of cheap spark plugs, but you'll get the hang of your bike and that carb if you pay attention.
If you open the pipes, you will probably have to re-tune the carb.
Think about venting the head breathers overboard and not down the carb throat...
I am running SE Pro II pipes opened up a little more, with a larger idle and main jet with the idle mixture set at almost 3 turns, and the plugs look good...I push in the enricher after about 5 minutes and I still get the occasional pop when it is cold or just being ornery from questionable gas...
Last edited by skinman13; Nov 2, 2017 at 04:17 PM.
Pulled and cleaned/rebuilt the carb. No more coughing and smooth transition from idle at a stop sign. However, in the garage after 30 second of idling the idle gets rough. Seems like it's starving for gas. Blip the throttle and the rough idle comes back pretty quick but still no cough. Rams drop and catch back up, it will die eventually. Thoughts?
Tin Cup is spot on, I set up my carb on my '02 Super Glide just like that in '04 or '05. I tweak it just a little during warmer weather. The S/G is a 95" kit with 203 cams, and hybrid camplate.
Pulled and cleaned/rebuilt the carb. No more coughing and smooth transition from idle at a stop sign. However, in the garage after 30 second of idling the idle gets rough. Seems like it's starving for gas. Blip the throttle and the rough idle comes back pretty quick but still no cough. Rams drop and catch back up, it will die eventually. Thoughts?
Sounds like basic idle adjustments.
Did you drill out the idle screw cover?
Is the intake leak-free?
Enrichener fully seated?
Tuning performed on hot engine?
Sounds like basic idle adjustments.
Did you drill out the idle screw cover?
Is the intake leak-free?
Enrichener fully seated?
Tuning performed on hot engine?
It was already drilled out. 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.
As far as I know- how test?
Yes as far as I know.
Yes
Every engine is different. 2 1/2 turns may not be correct for yours. Set idle around 1000 then adjust mixture for fastest idle then readjust idle speed to spec. Go slow. 1/4 turn can make a huge difference.
Check for leaks with aerosol starter fluid. Spray the gasket areas with the engine running. Listen/watch for idle speed change. There should be none.
Last edited by cggorman; Nov 18, 2017 at 03:35 PM.
It was already drilled out. 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.
As far as I know- how test?
Yes as far as I know.
Yes
As long as you're sure you've got no intake leaks and the enrichener is fully seating, start with 2 turns out from light seat with the CV carb on a T/C 88". 2 1/2 turns out is past the sweet spot on most T/C 88's; go back to 2 turns out and very slowly begin again.
What pilot jet are you running, the stock #45? If you are start at 2 turns out and slowly start to turn the screw left/ counter clockwise as you test. Past a 2 1/8 - 2 1/4 turn out from light seat you need to look to the next sized jet, then go back to 2 turns out and start again.
You can blip test at idle with the engine fully warmed up to fine tune the air/fuel mixture screw; this does work better if you adjust your idle to around 1200 - 1300 RPM temporarily. With the bike idling blip the throttle and listen to the idle; if you've got a tach it's easier but you can do this by ear.
Blip the throttle; if the idle drops slightly below your idle set point before stabilizing back on idle you're slightly rich on the air/fuel mixture screw; very slightly adjust it right/clockwise. If the idle hangs slightly before settling back on your set idle you're a bit lean; tweak the screw slightly left/counter clockwise.
Carbs are a bit of science, and a bit of art; but when you find the sweet spots your bike wants, you'll be pleased with your results...
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