Alignment issues?
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,023
Likes: 138
From: here
Hate to ask the most basic question because you must be racking your brain but ... where is the drivetrain hitting the frame? If you're sure it's actually hitting.
I get that it's not obvious when you're sitting still looking at it, but can you get someone to sit on and rev a few notches to see if you can find where / if there's metal to metal contact? I'd pick the biggest dude I could find just in case it has anything to do with the rear suspension.
Also, +1 with misfitJason on maybe something to do with the kickstand.
I get that it's not obvious when you're sitting still looking at it, but can you get someone to sit on and rev a few notches to see if you can find where / if there's metal to metal contact? I'd pick the biggest dude I could find just in case it has anything to do with the rear suspension.
Also, +1 with misfitJason on maybe something to do with the kickstand.
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Novice
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
sometimes you have to nudge the motor back into position to make the top stabilizer bolts line up. WHat I don't understand is, is how you did the alignment procedure without having the top stabilizer link already on, because you have to run the motor with everything on and loosened. The point of the alignment is not to make the top stabilizer fit without any pressure it is to pull the motor one way or another and then run the motor to center the bottom mounts.
Frame knocking. I would check these two points. The kickstand mount to the frame has a pin that the motor will sometimes hit. The other is on one of the stickers on the right downtube. It can hit there during hard braking or bumps. Oh, and I forgot this one. The rear mount can be angled and cause the miount/motor to hit the frame in the rear.
Frame knocking. I would check these two points. The kickstand mount to the frame has a pin that the motor will sometimes hit. The other is on one of the stickers on the right downtube. It can hit there during hard braking or bumps. Oh, and I forgot this one. The rear mount can be angled and cause the miount/motor to hit the frame in the rear.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 6,847
Likes: 1,388
From: Florida
That is true for aligning the mounts themselves which I also did, but service manual has another procedure for aligning front and rear wheel by using inclinometers on the brake rotors with the bike upright and level to ensure theyre running in line. Also checked rear axle alignment, and after doing those procedures I loosened all mounts and ran motor. The front header pipe is where it hits the frame at certain rpms, just as you stated right where the stickers are. That made me think it was something to do with the front mount, but after inspecting my old one and swapping in a new one I still had the problem and it persists even after shimming the front mount and checking the clearance according to updated TSB
I think I just figured out where your vibration is coming from. You're doing the alignment wrong. Loosen bot front and rear motor mounts. Then use you inclinomometers on the brake rotors while adjusting the top mount to make everything striaght. Tighten the top mount and check again. Then run the bike for 10-30 seconds while the motor mounts are still loose. That will center everything and make for less vibration. Then tighten the mounts to spec.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 290
Likes: 21
From: Portland Oregon
That is true for aligning the mounts themselves which I also did, but service manual has another procedure for aligning front and rear wheel by using inclinometers on the brake rotors with the bike upright and level to ensure theyre running in line. Also checked rear axle alignment, and after doing those procedures I loosened all mounts and ran motor. The front header pipe is where it hits the frame at certain rpms, just as you stated right where the stickers are. That made me think it was something to do with the front mount, but after inspecting my old one and swapping in a new one I still had the problem and it persists even after shimming the front mount and checking the clearance according to updated TSB
What did you remove and replace when working on the engine?
You had your heads off for some reason?
Did you loosen or remove your Front & Rear Motor Mounts while doing the engine work?
Is your transmission mounted to the Frame (a crossmember type) as well as the Engine?
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Novice
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
I think I just figured out where your vibration is coming from. You're doing the alignment wrong. Loosen bot front and rear motor mounts. Then use you inclinomometers on the brake rotors while adjusting the top mount to make everything striaght. Tighten the top mount and check again. Then run the bike for 10-30 seconds while the motor mounts are still loose. That will center everything and make for less vibration. Then tighten the mounts to spec.
this is is in essence what I did already, I started at the top stabilizer adjusting that to bring brake rotors within .4 degrees of each other, and then moved on to realigning the front and rear mounts by loosening mounting bolts and then running the motor. Ill do the same procedure again, perhaps the mounts didnt center well enough the first time around
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Novice
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
If you don't mind... tell us what you did on your motor work Again BUT, just the basics. (short version) (It was hard for me to understand your first post with Everything you wrote in it.)
What did you remove and replace when working on the engine?
You had your heads off for some reason?
Did you loosen or remove your Front & Rear Motor Mounts while doing the engine work?
Is your transmission mounted to the Frame (a crossmember type) as well as the Engine?
What did you remove and replace when working on the engine?
You had your heads off for some reason?
Did you loosen or remove your Front & Rear Motor Mounts while doing the engine work?
Is your transmission mounted to the Frame (a crossmember type) as well as the Engine?
Front and rear motor mounts were not touched during any of the work.
Transmission is mounted to the engine as well as the swingarm I believe, but no direct mounting to frame.
Apologies for the long original post.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 6,847
Likes: 1,388
From: Florida
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Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
Heads were not decked, but I did go with a .030 head gasket from cometic. Piston to valve clearance was checked and all is well there
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 290
Likes: 21
From: Portland Oregon
Cam plate, oil pump, cams, valve springs (reason for taking the heads off), carb, and ignition module.
Front and rear motor mounts were not touched during any of the work.
Transmission is mounted to the engine as well as the swingarm I believe, but no direct mounting to frame.
Apologies for the long original post.
With what You have said so far.....
1) I am wondering, if the engine was out of alignment before you started the work But, the upper mount was keeping the engine in place.
2) Did you purchase this bike New?
3) Has it ever been in an Accident that you know of? (could the Frame be bent/tweaked just a little)
I guess I would have to be there and work on the issue before I can really understand the problem. If your front and rear engine mounts were not loosened during the work, I cant understand how you now have an engine that is not sitting in the frame correctly. (maybe a broken motor mount)
"Could one of the motor mounts be bad or damaged even broken" and have allowed the engine to move during the motor work?
I am about out of ideas.
