Front fender/ tire offset

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Feb 25, 2018 | 03:48 PM

#21

Ghost_13

Grand HDF Member

Joined: Jul 2016

Posts: 4,384

Likes: 8,742

From: Texas

If the axle is not adjusted properly (horizontally) - then cinched in the pinch bolts - before the axle bolt (nut) is tightened

It will draw the lowers together (placing them in a bind)

It will throw off the wheel being centered between the lowers

And it will throw off the fender / wheel alignment

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Could be the horizontal axle adjustment is off (prior to the cinch bolts being torqued).., or

It could be the wrong size wheel spacer on the right side (**** happens)

Bottom line - wheel should be centered..., should align with the lowers..., and lowers / tubes should not be placed in any sort of bind (think what fun this last one induces - poor / erratic handling / suspension performance..., premature bushing wear)

If OP had a fork brace - it would make this obvious

He doesn't - and the fender will / does flex

And right now..., the fender is the only static / repeatable baseline measurement available

**** with it -> throw what little repeatable baseline measurement there is - off

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Frames are built in a jig..., wheel need to align for best handling

Suspension parts should not be placed in a self induced bind - of any sort

But what the hell - half *** solutions are easier to attain

===============

I spent an entire day - diagnosing..., repeating..., then fixing this exact issue

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Re-lacing the wheel is a **** poor band aid - at best.

And I'd bet the bob is off
==========

Have fun

- I'm out

Ghost

Last edited by Ghost_13; Feb 25, 2018 at 03:50 PM.

Feb 25, 2018 | 04:32 PM

#22

TinCupChalice

Extreme HDF Member

Joined: Feb 2015

Posts: 10,907

Likes: 8,758

From: Galt's Gulch - MI

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unclescarhead

I love the way your bike looks. Planing on getting chrome lower belt guard. I would chose your paint if I could have.

I took a few minutes and compared your and my bikes; sliders, fender, wheel, OEM tire, left and right wheel spacers, axle, and caliper are exactly the same parts. The only difference is you have ABS, and I'm non-ABS.

Owing to tolerance slack <a compounding of errors when you start ganging parts together> the front end can't be held to tight tolerances <and now you know why there's a CCE fork brace on my bike

> so the front fender can't be made to tight tolerances either.

As Ghost_13 is pointing out, it's a wise idea to verify everything is in proper alignment.

Get the bike in the air, loosen the 4 fender mounting bolts, the axle nut, and the axle cap bolts. You don't need to remove anything, just loosen them up. Torque the axle nut to 62 - 67 ft-lbs while you hold the axle with a rod or screwdriver through the hole on the right end of the axle.

Then, torque the rear axle cap bolt to 132 -180 in-lbs; torque the front axle cap bolt to the same torque; the gap at the front of the axle cap is normal.

Finally, move to the fender and begin to draw the 4 mounting bolts in. There's a fair amount of slop in the fender mounting holes so hold the fender in position as you begin to snug up the mounting bolts. 15 - 21 ft-lbs on the front fender mounting bolts.

Then, let's see how everything is squared up...

Feb 25, 2018 | 04:41 PM

#23

Unclescarhead

Thread Starter

Tourer

Joined: Sep 2017

Posts: 255

Likes: 75

From: Nj

Thanks for all your time and advice. I'm being told all the 2016 wide glides are the same way. The moco said they are built with this offset purposely.

I will try what you and ghost are saying and let you know what I come up with. Thanks.

Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; Mar 3, 2018 at 07:26 PM.