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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I am having a problem with my 2001 Dyna Super Glide when shifting in to first gear. While riding if I pull in the clutch and shift down in to first it has a grinding sound and ill let up until fully stopped and then I can shift in to first without any problems. This issue doesn't happen all the time and only when I'm shifting from second to first while traveling. Fluids are all new and I put in brand new clutch plates and clutch cable. Anyone have any ideas of what my problem could be? Thanks for the help!
Possibly the clutch isn't fully disengaging? Are you sure the cable is properly adjusted? Also, downshifting into first while moving often requires some fairly accurate rev matching... Does it grind if you blip the throttle to match engine speed, or only if you've let the RPM drop?
Possibly the clutch isn't fully disengaging? Are you sure the cable is properly adjusted? Also, downshifting into first while moving often requires some fairly accurate rev matching... Does it grind if you blip the throttle to match engine speed, or only if you've let the RPM drop?
The clutch cable is adjusted and lubed. the only time that the grading noise happens is when I am downshifting from second to first while the clutch is pulled in and its not every time. Reving the RPM's up to match the motor shouldn't matter at that point........ or I could be wrong. haven't tried it while the clutch in pulled.
The clutch cable is adjusted and lubed. the only time that the grading noise happens is when I am downshifting from second to first while the clutch is pulled in and its not every time. Reving the RPM's up to match the motor shouldn't matter at that point........ or I could be wrong. haven't tried it while the clutch in pulled.
Make sure you have right fluid in there. Straight weight non-detergent gear oil.
Be sure clutch has proper back off at zero play. Do not back off the cable too far when setting or you cannot fill clutch with the lever when setting.
You need to screw in adjuster a couple times past zero play to deburr and lever the lever to make sure you are at zero, then 1/2-3/4 turn out and snug. The set cable play to minimum play at checked at both locks of the bar.
Make sure the two joints on the shifter rod are loose. Some aftermarket spherical ones are too stiff. You need a little slop so transmission will yank dogs in to complete shift.
If all above is correct, shift harder and quickly with a stab, of course not past the travel limit of the lever but quick.
You are not shifting gears, they are always engaged. You shift side in-gaging dogs with a slight bevel that sucks them in and also locks them.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 07:45 AM.
All round summer / winter 50W is what Harley engineers recommend. What has proven best for me and I have tried ATF and 75/90 SYN gear oil.
Sorry if I am making this an oil thread.
The problem for the FP is not oil unless he has some really crazy stuff. I just put it in my first post since he does not say and no telling what someone may have in there.
As Ripsaw shows the dog clutches could be rounded causing the grind. On thing you can do is blip the throttle on down shift to help the dogs line up but if they are rounded, you are pretty much SOL and need to rebuild the tranny..
If the the tranny was build with Andrews close ratio first, they seem to do it more than stock tranny gears.
One thing to make sure of is that the shifter mechanism is not limited. On dyna the arm through the case can hit part of the inner primary.. After market stuff can get in the way. Also make sure that the arm is tight on the tranny.
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