Okay so ill start at the beginning. Last year my bikes battery fried a cell while I was riding, bike began to jerk would shut off and regain power then all of a sudden it was gone. I then has this happen with 3 more batteries before deciding to replace my charging system even though it all checked out okay, the bike is an 06 street bob so I figured why not upgrade the stator to the newer 1 piece unit.

I went to Daytona this year but rode about 100 miles around locally before loading the bike up for the trek and everything seemed good (usually would roast the battery within 50 miles) Got down there did about 500 miles cruising around without issue so I was thinking the issue was a thing of the past. WRONG! Last day I was there I ripped a few wheelies and did some spirited runs then all of a sudden it jerked and boom no power. In all I had about 700 miles in before issue which is the most riding I've been able to do in almost two years.

Points to note:
This last battery was a cheaper battery and maybe could have blown a cell from coming down from wheelies, I got a better battery for my replacement.

My starter when engaged will sometimes make a single loud click sometimes a few times in a row before catching so I mainly use my solenoid push button which never fails.

When I rev the bike sitting in neutral the speedo will jump to 2-3 mph (I've read grounding issue but have triple checked them all)

I have gone over every wire I've ever touched multiple times (re wired my bars 3 times, re wired my extended gauge wires 3 times, and re did my tail light 2 times)

All tests check good on the new charging system, battery never goes up over 14.5 volts while revving, maintains 14.3-.14.4 volts at idle, and 12.8 volts while bike is off.

Currently pulling battery out to re check all the grounds behind battery box, had to replace my front brake switch so I pulled my bar wires on the right side to see if there was anything exposed and everything still looks A1. What am I missing and what ideas can you guys throw my way?

 

Are you sure it’s an electronic issue? Sounds to me more like a fuel issue...like the filter is clogged and or pin holes in the interior lines....

 

[QUOTE=crusader1xxx;17241776]Are you sure it’s an electronic issue? Sounds to me more like a fuel issue...like the filter is clogged and or pin holes in the interior lines....[/QUOTE

I wouldn't think a fuel issue would fry my batteries or effect the gauge when revved. Im certainly willing to look at any options that other heads can come up with however.

 

Wheelies??? You slammin down the front end and causing a short in the wiring in the headlight?

 

I would use a voltmeter to check for continuity between the frame and basically every circut on the bike. It seems like theres a short somewhere. Also check for a draw on the battery if the bike sits a few days.

 

I had the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier go out on a Suzuki years back. When it did it fried the battery. Overcharged it, stunk when I was at a stop after riding for a bit. Didn't really notice any other problems till I went to start it the next day and it wouldn't. May have noticed something on the road if I was out longer.

If the Rectifier goes it can effect the gauges from what I've read. The lights are AC, the gauges are DC, and the Rectifier is a converter.



Are your ground wires fully encased or can you see any wires at the ends? Sometimes they can get corroded inside and look fine from the outside... and even though your drove it yesterday today it doesn't work.

 

I honestly haven't checked the headlight wiring at all so ill pull that out and see what thats looking like.

Yes I will go through all the circuits this weekend and see if theres any issue, whats the best way to check continuity in the circuits? At the fuses or in each individual plug? Also theres no draw its been sitting 3 days and still at 12.7 volts.

It is a new regulator and everything seems to be working as it should but I won't rule anything out at this point. Yes they are mostly encased but at the ends I could certainly see enough opening for things to trickle in to corrode it. Is there a way to test grounds without just replacing them all?

Lastly does anyone know the ripple of AC going back to the battery thats acceptable? I had read its up to .7v which mine is sitting between.07-.08 while running and 0 while off.

 

Sounds like a regulator. Use a volt meter, check the volts with the bike running. It should go no higher than 14.4V with the rpms raised. At idle it should be 12.8-13.5 Volts. That is in DC. After that switch the meter to A.C. I am curious to see what it is. Ideally it would be best to use an O'scope or a analog meter to get a more accurate A.C. reading. But a digitl will get you in the ball park

 

The original post and the one above you has all those stats listed my man. Everything seems to be functioning at the specs of the manual.

 

Not sure how I missed that. I was reading on my phone. With magnetic flux, it is possible for certain frequencies to dip. Meaning at certain RPMs your voltage can drop. If you decide to check again assuming it has not been fixed, rev the motor to your curing speed and see if the voltage dips or spikes.


A way to test the grounds is keeping your meter reference at one point, then probe the positive at all points looking for a different voltage value. The ripple you read, it that with a DMM?