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Nope. Run/turn/brake. Notice the red LED lit up in the first pic I posted. That's in the run condition.
Damn, I'm must be thinking about this unit all wrong. Just to be clear, I see you have a set of amber lights and red lights in your picture. you are acheiving the run/turn/brake functions out of just one set of lights correct? How are you using the run since you cut the output leg off? Does the brake red leg not pass through the unit through the tail/marker leg on the opposite side?
Sorry for all the Q's I'm just not finding much explanation in the instructions.
The ambers are front indicators operating in run/turn. I have four LED indicators total: 2 fronts, 2 rears. No center tail. All four are simple 2 wire diodes.
It's been too long since I set everything up. I can't remember exactly why I wired it the way I did. I know I spent a few hours on the bench getting it right.
I wish I could rule out that the M-Unit is outputting differently than stock but this setup is my only experience with the Hopkins box. Unfortunately the M-Unit is pretty complicated and can do a lot.
I HATE that I may have steered you wrong. I have a used Badlands Illuminator Pro III I'd be happy to send you (free) but I can't guarantee it would work for your setup either. It worked fine for me as a LED run/turn/brake controller, but it entirely replaced the TSM in my 99. PM if interested.
Last edited by cggorman; Apr 18, 2018 at 11:49 PM.
The part that is confusing me is how the turn signal can operate correctly if the brake 12v is still allowed to pass through.
It's not allowed to pass through..
If voltage is applied to your Brake Input ONLY... voltage passes
If you now apply voltage to either of your Turn Signals Inputs ...ALL output is turned off for that side...until input voltage is removed (via the flasher)
Additionally, if there is NO Brake Input, then the Turn Signal passes
Try this for your OUTPUT wiring... Ask If you need help on the Input side
The ambers are front indicators operating in run/turn. I have four LED indicators total: 2 fronts, 2 rears. No center tail. All four are simple 2 wire diodes.
It's been too long since I set everything up. I can't remember exactly why I wired it the way I did. I know I spent a few hours on the bench getting it right.
I wish I could rule out that the M-Unit is outputting differently than stock but this setup is my only experience with the Hopkins box. Unfortunately the M-Unit is pretty complicated and can do a lot.
I HATE that I may have steered you wrong. I have a used Badlands Illuminator Pro III I'd be happy to send you (free) but I can't guarantee it would work for your setup either. It worked fine for me as a LED run/turn/brake controller, but it entirely replaced the TSM in my 99. PM if interested.
That's extremely generous of you but I think you had me headed in the right direction with this unit, all good! I'm just struggling to make it work with the parts I have. I'm thinking I'm short one intensifier or resistor for the input side for running lights.
Originally Posted by multihdrdr
It's not allowed to pass through..
If voltage is applied to your Brake Input ONLY... voltage passes
If you now apply voltage to either of your Turn Signals Inputs ...ALL output is turned off for that side...until input voltage is removed (via the flasher)
Additionally, if there is NO Brake Input, then the Turn Signal passes
Try this for your OUTPUT wiring... Ask If you need help on the Input side
REF: (below)
I think I see where I was confused with how the unit behaves. If the brake signal is applied alone voltage goes to 12v across tail/right/left. If Left flasher is applied with brake, then voltage is applied to tail AS WELL as "Right". With the tail/marker getting knocked down to 7v from the intensifier the Left with go 12/7/12/7 ect, while the Right will continue to receive 12v.
I was over thinking my connections! Looks like I have all the parts on hand then and am good to go.
I took the bike on a hour ride yesterday. Today I went to turn it on, the running lights turned on then i heard a "dong" like flicking a coke can thats half full. All lights arent turning on including dash. The battery has 12.6v, checked all my neg/pos connections and they are good. Bike will start. Sounds like its coming from what i believe are the relays? If it leave it on it dongs every few seconds. I check negative terminal to positive checking for a direct short but not getting any continuity.
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