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Swap bars to apes? Recommendations?

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Old Jul 19, 2018 | 09:07 AM
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Default Swap bars to apes? Recommendations?

I'm considering swapping my drag bars out for some ape hangers in the future for my '12 Fat Bob. As a newbie, I'm pretty clueless to how I should even approach this. I'm 5'9, so I'm not sure where I should begin on height? Also, if anyone can ballpark the costs of "everything else" that goes into a bar swap, I'd really appreciate it!
 
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Old Jul 19, 2018 | 01:40 PM
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I can't help much on the cost of extended cables, wires, etc. for apes as I haven't had to do that. Lucked out with the previous owner taking that hit. But for an idea on height, I am 6'3" and have 14" bars with the factory FXDB risers. Hands are right at shoulder height for me. I downsized from the 16" apes the previous owner had on it. When you start shopping for bars, you'll see measurements for height, width, pullback, end rise, and some others. Google "handlebar measurements" and you will see what each of these refer to. Just be prepared that it is not nearly as simple as it seems. Good luck!
 
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Old Jul 19, 2018 | 02:36 PM
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i have the factory fxdb apes, one piece top tree and the risers on them...if interested!
 
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Old Jul 19, 2018 | 10:52 PM
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Cost varies too much to give you a ballpark. Depends on what you want to do really. Stock cables or switch to Barnett's or Magnum's... internally wired?... fat or regular.

I'm 5'9" and have 10.5 mini 1.25dia apes on 4" risers, and it's perfect.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2018 | 06:48 PM
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IF you go to around 12-15 inches you ca run stock street bob cables. I ran 15" santee bonanza bars with OEM street Bb cables.

Cost for:
  • Clutch Cable
  • Throttle cable
  • Idle cable
will be under $100
You will need to get a different line for you brakes and here I would spend the money on Goodridge or Magnum (Probably $100+ on its own) If you have ABS that will increase this cost.

By comparison I have 14" Wild1 Outlaws on my Fat Bob (2014 with ABS) and the full set of Magnum Shielding cables was nearly $1000 AuD.

Factor in the Parts for the bars, risers and labour, plus I also did new head stem bearings, new Billet fork covers and had the fork oil replaced and a little preload added it becomes an expensive exercise.

But I'm 6'7" so I had to go that high, you should be right with a lower set of bars (12-14" total rise)

Also wires - I had enough to cover the 14" bars and 2" risers. No extensions needed.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2018 | 09:49 PM
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I’m 5-11 and put 16s on my lrs which is pretty similar stock to the fat bob. I paid 250 for my bars (16 inch black el diabalo), 60 bucks for a +4 Street bob cable, if you have throttle cables, drag specialties has a set for about 60 bucks. On my street bob my non abs +4 brake line cost about 65 bucks, on my lrs my abs brake line cost 250 for the lower and 50 for the upper from magnum shielding. If you go with 14s, the drag specialties +8 abs brake line (for fat bob) should fit and that was only around 100 bucks (it was just about an inch too short for my 16s on my lrs.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2018 | 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Tall Timber
IF you go to around 12-15 inches you ca run stock street bob cables. I ran 15" santee bonanza bars with OEM street Bb cables.
Cost for:
  • Clutch Cable
  • Throttle cable
  • Idle cable
will be under $100
You will need to get a different line for you brakes and here I would spend the money on Goodridge or Magnum (Probably $100+ on its own) If you have ABS that will increase this cost.

By comparison I have 14" Wild1 Outlaws on my Fat Bob (2014 with ABS) and the full set of Magnum Shielding cables was nearly $1000 AuD.
Factor in the Parts for the bars, risers and labour, plus I also did new head stem bearings, new Billet fork covers and had the fork oil replaced and a little preload added it becomes an expensive exercise.

But I'm 6'7" so I had to go that high, you should be right with a lower set of bars (12-14" total rise)

Also wires - I had enough to cover the 14" bars and 2" risers. No extensions needed.
Looks awesome man. Magnum..how’s the sheathing holding up? No fading? Did you go chromelite or polished stainless? They’ll be getting my order in the next few months.(or where I can find cheaper -direct cycle parts)


 
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Old Jul 22, 2018 | 07:15 AM
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I’ve heard magnum shielding products don’t “stay pretty very long” however I’m going on a year and 12k on mine and still lookin good
 
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Old Jul 22, 2018 | 07:35 AM
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If you can find someone who has a bike with some apes like you want at you local dealer on the weekend and ask to sit on it, it’s the best way to try, or try the horse at the dealer but the cables, don’t let the dealer convince you to automatically change your cables... measure twice, install once...
i love my apes , 12” yaffee on my bagger and they are great...
i went Goodrich brake lines and Pro Action clutch, inexpensive and did the trick.
 

Last edited by Notgrownup; Jul 22, 2018 at 07:36 AM.
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Old Jul 22, 2018 | 08:40 AM
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I changed mine out for $200 bucks total and that included a pair of new 14" Wild Onz bars (bought off this site in the classifieds) I have an 08 FXSTC so i cant see how it would much different than yours.

I am 5ft 10" and am glad i didnt go any higher than 14s...and glad i got the wild onz because it made feeding the wiring through the bars easier because of the diameter of the bars is a little larger than stock. Granted the previous owner had already put on longer SS clutch and throttle cables so i didnt have to swap those out. I did have to extend the wiring harness by 4" but all i had to do was buy an extension kit off of ebay and solder it on. My indy wouldnt do it, said he had too many problems feeding wires internally and harley was charging like $1500 (not including bars). I had it done within a few hours. Works great and i learned alot in the process. There is a video out there you can buy from law abiding biker that shows you step by step how to change out your bars to apes. Highly recommended if you are on the fence and need step by step instructions. If i can do it anyone can do it. As far as feeding the wires through the bars, I had that done in 15 minutes tops. WD40 on the harness and a squirt inside the bars....a little elbow grease and they went through. What is the key to this is patience, there isnt really anything too technical about it.

My suggestion is first find the bars you want, buy them before buying anything else then do a mock up by taking off the old bars and mounting the new bars. Then you can not guess but actually see how much more length you need for the wiring harness and cables. You may or may not have to extend the wiring harness, cables so if you buy the bars first and do a mock up you can be sure and not waste money buying things you dont need.
 

Last edited by saltlick; Jul 22, 2018 at 08:44 AM.
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