On the way, thanks man.

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I don't think I'd be using them exhaust valves. Don't be so cheap and have a shop clean them up for you...

 

While everyone is jumping in -
Now is the time to correct stuff
fFom the pic-your seats are way too wide .
Drop your valve in the guide, lift it off the seat a little move it side to side.
usually, any feel is too much, it just depends on your exp dealing with valve guides.
Personally, my feeling is this -Vales live in the literal HELL.
Glowing red HOT.
I just toss them and get new.
Might you be able to source a hard seat grinder and fix the seats ?

 

Not at all, the valves / stems are pretty hard anyway and I only tightened them up enough to resist the pressure I was putting on with steel wool by hand.

 

I did test exactly the way you're suggesting and only one valve (Intake) had any play at all and that not much.
However, I do have new guides and a removal tool already on order, should be here next week.

Not sure what you mean about seats being too wide?
The little bit of lapping I did shows a ring the whole way around each of the seats.
If the seat was misshapen I would have thought there would be at least a dirty spot / break in the ring.
You're right about cheap, no doubt there.
I had been debating whether to replace the valves and seats but that's a bunch more than I have to spend right now.
Maybe I'll have a look at just the exhaust valves and see if I can find a seat grinder with the right angles to match.

 

You CANT put in new guides without cutting the seats.Oh you can, but they probably will not seal.
Next
Seat width is a religion, but to sum it up-Too wide makes for a bad seal.
Narrow flows much better, esp toward the tulip part of the valve but will not last as long.
Too wide and not 100 % seal will equal a burnt valve in short order.
Any auto shop could touch the seats up for you.

have the new guides in first.

 

Stock valve to guide spec is 0.001" to 0.003".. At 0.003" you can wiggle the guide in the head. Wear limit is 0.0038".. (only 0.0008" more) Go figure. You can running silicon bronze guides on the tight side but I'd worry about cast iron sticking at 0.001.. Valve seat width is supposed to be 0.040 to 0.062.

 

I wish you were close i could fix you up pretty cheap.
Like I said, seat width is a religion and porting at the same time.
The seats look almost wide as the margin.

 

You did make me rethink my strategy and reexamine all the research I did before.

I still have the guides on order and was going to replace them myself but since I need to cut the seats too I contacted several places.
I don't know how you all have access to such great auto shops but there is no one within 25 miles of me that will even touch Harley heads.
The only places I found that would even handle them ALL SEND THEM OUT TO THE SAME PLACE. So I found that place and contacted them directly.
They're willing to give me a little break on the machining cost but told me flat out "If you replace the guides yourself, you are on your own."
Some time next week I'll be packing up parts and carrying them out to these guys and it's still going to cost close to $50 per hole.
I guess I'm more than just a little pregnant ... as long as I'm in this deep, I ordered new exhaust valves too.
My wallet is SUCKING big time.

 

Any auto shop can do it. if you are not looking for fancy
Do you have a teck auto school nearby?
What i do is drill most the guide out, tap it, and pull it with a puller like Porsche 911
Dry ice the new guide (measure for an interference fit first )
after installed, and back to OAT,Put into oven cool two times so they get comfortable where they are at (not move after you have cut the seats)
At this point, any little shop could cut the seats for you for 100 bucks or a lot less
No magic required.
i am way over NYS if you want me to do it .