PLEASE HELP! Stator test results.
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From: poway
Question in your voltage observations. Did you replace both the battery and regulator between the 2 measurements or was it after you replaced the battery and saw no gain that the regulator helped?
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From: Illinois
Great question and sorry for not being clear on that.
First, replaced battery. Sluggish start with 14.15 at idle and 2000rpms.
Second, purchase regulator and replaced it. I actually tried to use the existing battery but I feel that it was either done, or I just kept turning the bike on and off, running multiple test for a few days to double check my numbers that the battery just needs a charge.
Lastly, I decided to throw the new battery in that I had purchased and the bike is running great.
mind you, I had my original battery load tested and it passed when I started having this problem.. I brought it back to get load tested and should have an answer on if it in fact was going out or it just needed a charge. Sometimes they fail shortly after problems occur. At that point, I will return new battery and use my original one.
Last edited by toryhardin92; Aug 9, 2018 at 05:53 PM.
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From: poway
It's not to uncommon for a bad battery to test good on some of the older testers. If they didn't tell you what the CCA was, it was likely an older tester. The newer battery testers are much more reliable.. One thing is that on the older testers if they say bad, the battery is definitely bad... Good? Might still be bad, especially when you have something like a later model Dyna.
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From: Illinois
It's not to uncommon for a bad battery to test good on some of the older testers. If they didn't tell you what the CCA was, it was likely an older tester. The newer battery testers are much more reliable.. One thing is that on the older testers if they say bad, the battery is definitely bad... Good? Might still be bad, especially when you have something like a later model Dyna.
i would have to agree with you not enough battery for the bike.
bike tested at 12.78, 335 CCA
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From: Illinois
so you are saying .6 on all 3 wires is too high
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From: along the shore of Mishigami
Constant voltage to my battery on my 05 L/R is 14.-14.5v, . One think I would look at because of your low idle issue and a high idle issue is a dirty IAC in the throttle bore. That little unit controls the idle air when the throttle plate is closed. Oil vapors going through the bore will gum up the little orifice. Spray some throttle bore cleaner at the orifice while cycling the ignition on/off a few times.
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From: pacific northwest
the 3 phase alternator should be about like a 3 phase motor, you want close to equal resistance across all 3 windings ( L1 to L2, L2 to L3 and L1 to L3)
also out of curiosity, what kind of mileage can one expect out of a stator? I am coming up on 35K miles on mine, as I said years back my GS 1000 Suzuki one failed at 32K.
also out of curiosity, what kind of mileage can one expect out of a stator? I am coming up on 35K miles on mine, as I said years back my GS 1000 Suzuki one failed at 32K.
Last edited by MRFREEZE57; Aug 10, 2018 at 11:22 PM.
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From: poway
2 things kill alternators. Heat and vibrations. Most are killed by heat destroying in the insulation and a short to ground. Vibration does it in if anything is loose. I would say what sets the life of HD alternators is how much the bike sits in traffic. I've replace 3 stators on my bikes but all were because the alternator wires leaked at the exit to the primary.. I do own an 02 rk with 79000 miles on it that still has the original alternator.
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Joined: Dec 2015
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From: England
Just in case you didn't, remember to zero your meter when doing a resistance/ohms check on your stator, or anything else for that matter as it will mess with your results. 0.6 ohms sounds like meter/lead resistance to me.
Not sure what state of tune your bike has but HD brought out a revised calibration last year which may be available for your bike, to help prevent difficult starting and as a sideline, the VINERR symptom. Rather than waiting for you to hit the start button and then open the ACRs, they are now turned on for 10 seconds at ignition on. This seems to have helped on bikes in good condition with batteries that are also in decent shape. It's important with this revised calibration to either start the bike within the 10 seconds, or turn the ignition off and back on again as the ACRs then close after those initial 10 seconds.
Not sure what state of tune your bike has but HD brought out a revised calibration last year which may be available for your bike, to help prevent difficult starting and as a sideline, the VINERR symptom. Rather than waiting for you to hit the start button and then open the ACRs, they are now turned on for 10 seconds at ignition on. This seems to have helped on bikes in good condition with batteries that are also in decent shape. It's important with this revised calibration to either start the bike within the 10 seconds, or turn the ignition off and back on again as the ACRs then close after those initial 10 seconds.