Motor Mounts
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 169
Likes: 26
From: San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)
Motor Mounts
Finally removed my evap canister and found my motor mount is pretty worn out. The rubber is bulging out of the mount. The front is wobbly at speed too.
My question is should I replace both front and rear mounts?
The rear is not as easy to inspect.
After reading through forum threads was thinking of going with the predator front and OEM rear with Sputhe stabilizer.
The bike's a 2016 Street Bob with 44K miles on it.
My question is should I replace both front and rear mounts?
The rear is not as easy to inspect.
After reading through forum threads was thinking of going with the predator front and OEM rear with Sputhe stabilizer.
The bike's a 2016 Street Bob with 44K miles on it.
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 1,333
Likes: 355
From: San Diego
Some say you have to replace both at the same time. I think that's a myth. If you're not having excessive vibration, leave it alone. You're going to dump some serious wampum on the Predator and Sputhe for marginal improvement.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,840
Likes: 900
From: Philly Suburbs
Starting with the Predator by itself probably isn't a bad idea... It's not difficult at all, and will probably be a noticeable improvement right away. Some people have had "clunking" issues with them, but I never did. If it's helpful, here was my experience when I first did the Predator a couple of years ago, retaining the OEM rear mount:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...tor-mount.html
A couple of things I'll add since then... I have loosened the center bolt a few times for various reasons without talking off the oil filter. As long as you have something relatively "low profile" to access the bolt, it isn't so bad. I don't remember whether the instructions mentioned it, but it makes a big difference with regard to alignment and vibration if you let the engine "self center" before tightening the center bolt. With the bike vertical (NOT on the side stand), let it idle a bit with the center bolt loose (everything else tight). Blip the throttle a little. Tighten the center bolt while the engine is still idling. Of course, this requires that you have a wrench or socket that will fit below the oil filter. Don't leave the center bolt out, just don't snug it up first. Install the center bolt before tightening everything else, as it may not line up with the top hole (in which case you won't be able to install it after the rest of the mount is tight).
Don't forget to finish the oil change before starting!
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...tor-mount.html
A couple of things I'll add since then... I have loosened the center bolt a few times for various reasons without talking off the oil filter. As long as you have something relatively "low profile" to access the bolt, it isn't so bad. I don't remember whether the instructions mentioned it, but it makes a big difference with regard to alignment and vibration if you let the engine "self center" before tightening the center bolt. With the bike vertical (NOT on the side stand), let it idle a bit with the center bolt loose (everything else tight). Blip the throttle a little. Tighten the center bolt while the engine is still idling. Of course, this requires that you have a wrench or socket that will fit below the oil filter. Don't leave the center bolt out, just don't snug it up first. Install the center bolt before tightening everything else, as it may not line up with the top hole (in which case you won't be able to install it after the rest of the mount is tight).
Don't forget to finish the oil change before starting!
Last edited by F86; Nov 16, 2018 at 02:12 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 251
From: Belle River Ontario
I have the predator as well, first thing I would do before changing any of your mounts is the power train alignment with a inclinometer. Do it right and then you know your motor etc is set up the way it is suppose to.
Then if there are issues change your mounts. With the mileage you have I would do both, just due to time in the elements and well wear. I think most would agree that you can get away with a stock mount in the rear but I would look to the aftermarket as I personally don't think the stock one are any good.
Then if there are issues change your mounts. With the mileage you have I would do both, just due to time in the elements and well wear. I think most would agree that you can get away with a stock mount in the rear but I would look to the aftermarket as I personally don't think the stock one are any good.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 965
Likes: 297
From: NoVa
Can't say how bad the mounts were on my 2003 with 15K miles, but the bike had genuine "Harley death wobble" when I bought it. Thought it was the front tire, but once I did a tiny bit of research, I knew what it was and remembered reading about it 15 years ago before leaving the Harley community. Anyway... bought the True-Track stabilizers, installed without replacing the original motor mounts, and it tracks & runs excellent now. Expensive, but totally worth it.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 169
Likes: 26
From: San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)
Thanks for the replies.
Ordered the Predator mount. I'll make sure to do the alignment and then go from there.
Gonna try and inspect the rear mount and see if it needs replacing.
Ordered the Predator mount. I'll make sure to do the alignment and then go from there.
Gonna try and inspect the rear mount and see if it needs replacing.
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