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So Im noticing my brake side handlebar is vibrating a lot more than my clutch side. At around 70 I can see theres a car behind me but thats about it. But my other mirror I can make out details. Could the riser bearing be going bad on that side? And if so what could cause one side to tear before the other?
Also, what would cause a significant difference in vibration between going 70 and then smoothing out at 80+?
The rubber bushings from the factory tend to degrade more on one side or the other if you favor one side while pulling the bike up off the side stand. If you pull more than push, the left side will wear first usually. If you push more than pull then the right side gets more abuse and wears more quickly. If you pull and push they will wear at a mostly even rate.
As said, poly or metal bushings will last significantly longer or forever.
So I’m noticing my brake side handlebar is vibrating a lot more than my clutch side. At around 70 I can see there’s a car behind me but that’s about it. But my other mirror I can make out details. Could the riser bearing be going bad on that side? And if so what could cause one side to tear before the other?
Also, what would cause a significant difference in vibration between going 70 and then smoothing out at 80+?
Could it just be your clutch lever rattling?
Risers don't have bearings, they have bushings and yes one could be getting sloppy.Check top clamp bolts and the nuts under your riser bolts. As far as vibration most all motors have buzz points which can be felt at certain speeds or rpm's. Sometimes you feel it through the bars and sometimes through the footpegs/floorboard. Might also want to check your top motor mount at the frame and the heads. Keep us posted.
OP~
It's not bushings/motor mounts or anything else outa whack. What you've noticed is vibration harmonics. If you pay attention to your mirrors, you'll notice that at certain RPM's, one side will vibrate more than the other, then at a different RPM, the vibration may switch sides. Then, it can switch back. From idle to redline, it may switch "right/left/right/left/etc" a few times. So, what to do about it. To quell vibration, you might install FASST Co anti-vibration inserts. They work. The nerves in your hands will appreciate it, as you get older...
The rubber bushings from the factory tend to degrade more on one side or the other if you favor one side while pulling the bike up off the side stand. If you pull more than push, the left side will wear first usually. If you push more than pull then the right side gets more abuse and wears more quickly. If you pull and push they will wear at a mostly even rate.
As said, poly or metal bushings will last significantly longer or forever.
Thank you, after reading your reply it makes sense. I feel kinda dumb for not thinking about that possibility since I favor my throttle side in pretty much everything. I need to get some poly bushings before I put my apes on so I'll just grab them now and if it fixes the problem, great, if not then I needed them anyway.
Thank you, after reading your reply it makes sense. I feel kinda dumb for not thinking about that possibility since I favor my throttle side in pretty much everything. I need to get some poly bushings before I put my apes on so I'll just grab them now and if it fixes the problem, great, if not then I needed them anyway.
OP~
It's not bushings/motor mounts or anything else outa whack. What you've noticed is vibration harmonics. If you pay attention to your mirrors, you'll notice that at certain RPM's, one side will vibrate more than the other, then at a different RPM, the vibration may switch sides. Then, it can switch back. From idle to redline, it may switch "right/left/right/left/etc" a few times. So, what to do about it. To quell vibration, you might install FASST Co anti-vibration inserts. They work. The nerves in your hands will appreciate it, as you get older...
So yeah the new bushings didn't change anything. I looked at the anti-vibration inserts but the website only seems to show them on dirt and ATV bars. Would they still work on 1" bars? And would they still allow enough run to run the wiring internally?
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