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Low Rider S Cruise Control Problem

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Old Aug 23, 2019 | 02:17 PM
  #11  
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I've never seen that - take the battery somewhere to be load tested, or, if I did see something like that, I'd just go grab a new battery and call it a day
 
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Old Aug 23, 2019 | 02:27 PM
  #12  
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Battery is on its fourth season so I don’t feel bad replacing it. It won’t hold a charge more than two or three days off a tender anyways. Oddly I put the meter back on it once I pulled it and now it’s acting fine. I really hope this solves my issues as no dealer in my area is willing to look at the bike before I’m supposed to leave. Fingers crossed.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2019 | 03:07 PM
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Put this one in before the tariffs go up!

https://www.batterystuff.com/batteri...tx20hq-fp.html
 
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Old Aug 23, 2019 | 05:28 PM
  #14  
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Ok. New battery no difference. Checked all my grounds and they look tight and clean.

As soon as I hit 3000 rpm the bike sounds like a machine gun out of the pipes. Pop pop pop. Real fast. I’m running out of ideas here. I have to think the cruise issue and running rough are somehow related but I have no idea honestly.

Any other ideas?
 
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Old Aug 23, 2019 | 05:30 PM
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Im actually wondering now if maybe I have a fuel filter issue. I was running on fumes today on the way to work. I wonder if I somehow sucked some crap up and caused a fuel flow issue.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2019 | 06:19 PM
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Ok. Whew. I forgot that today when I was messing around trying to figure out the cruise control issue I stopped my auto tune session and flashed the bike. Apparently that map was corrupt somehow. Bike is now running well again. Worst situation is I go on my trip with no cruise control. I’m man enough to deal with that.

Still looking for for advice on the CC problem. I know my warranty will cover it but there’s no way I can get it done before I go so I’ll keep plugging away pretending I know what the hell im doing.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2019 | 09:39 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Steven Kurmas
I put put a meter on the battery and it started at 13.5 but then started jumping all over. Mostly up to as high as 19v with the bike off.
Do you mean it jumped to 19 volts with the engine off? I don't know how that could be possible. If it did this with the engine on then you probably have a bad voltage regulator and that could quite possibly cause the cruise to not engage. Or, you've got some loose wiring somewhere.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 12:00 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Steven Kurmas
Ok. Whew. I forgot that today when I was messing around trying to figure out the cruise control issue I stopped my auto tune session and flashed the bike. Apparently that map was corrupt somehow. Bike is now running well again. Worst situation is I go on my trip with no cruise control. I’m man enough to deal with that.

Still looking for for advice on the CC problem. I know my warranty will cover it but there’s no way I can get it done before I go so I’ll keep plugging away pretending I know what the hell im doing.
Did you ever Figure this problem out im having the exact same issue, i push the cruise and no lights come on at all.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 12:31 PM
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Mine did this and it was the front master cylinder rod sticking and not retracting all the way. Does your front brake lever feel sloppy?
 
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 01:08 PM
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Since you already had an issue with the front brake switch sticking causing a brake light to stay on and red dash light I would start there. As a temporary quick fix you can do like me and pop the brake lever out and add a dab of gasket maker or similar to the **** on the inside of the brake lever that actuates the light switch. A little bit of this fills the clearance gap and lets the light work the way it should. This would only work if its actually the plunger not fully retracting back out not if the switch itself is bad. Worth a shot and takes 5 minutes. If this does cure your problem be sure to rebuild the master cylinder when you get a chance
 
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