When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
So its finally time to do a cam chain tensioner replacement on my 2003 FXD. It's at 53k miles, I've had it for the last 25k and I've been keeping a close eye on the tensioners, but its finally time. I haven't decided if I'm going to do cams while I'm in there (I keep going back and forth, but thats a rabbit hole for another day). I've noticed it seems like there are 2 main methods for pushrod removal, one is taking the rocker boxes off and pulling the pushrods up, the other is cutting the pushrods and just replacing them with adjustable pushrods. Is there any advantage to doing one rather than the other? I know the rocker box method is more time consuming and more than likely will require the tank to be removed. But is there any advantage or disadvantage to having adjustable pushrods?
Also, is there anything that should be replaced while I'm inside the came chest besides the tensioner shoes and inner cam bearings?
As you noted, the "cut the rods" method is only easier if adjustables are going back in. Pulling the rockers is not difficult, as you're only removing the upper cover, not the lower box. However, while you're in there, you may want to refresh the breather assemblies (especially with your mileage), and it would be a great time to add a set of Rockout bushings up top.
While you certainly can reuse the stock pushrods, I would think hard about it. If, now or in the future, you do anything that alters the distance from cam lobe to rocker arm seat (in the slightest), you'll need adjustable pushrods to arrive at the correct preload. That may include any change to cams, lifters, head gaskets, rocker arms, etc.
If you decide against cams, you could pull the top covers, refresh the breathers, and reuse the stock pushrods.
You'll want to replace the o-rings for the cam plate and pushrod tubes, and install the new style breathers. Pulling the tank and the rockers is really not that big of a deal, especially if you do it over the winter.
Nothing wrong with the stock pushrods with a stock base circle cam and no headwork.
Oh, I forgot to ask... What tensioners are you planning on installing? If you decide to change cams, I would recommend converting to a hydraulic cam plate. If you leave things stock, lots of people have reported much longer life from the Cyco tensioner shoes than OEM (although I have no experience - I went hydraulic). If you're using the FSM as a guide for required tools, don't worry about the HD special tools for taking off tension on the shoes or for holding them open. There are lots of simple ways of doing this without anything special. I used a combination wrench with an extention or screwdriver as a t-handle, and a roofing nail to hold the tensioners open.
One last thought: Inspect both cams chains really carefully. After doing this work a couple of years ago, I had a sound that was frustrating to diagnose and drove me nuts for awhile... It turned out there was a tight spot on the inside chain that was causing a really short, momentary timing issue. All good with new chains, which weren't expensive.
Going through the top is easy, and as mentioned (thanks!) you can make another great mod while in there.
OTOH if you have cam plans later you might want to get adjustables now... you'll likely need them unless your new cam has the same base circle as the stocker.
If you do cut make sure the lifter is at the bottom of it's stroke... you don't want pressure on the pushrod.
__________________________________________________ ____ For ROCKOUT information & purchasing please click HERE For all Twin Cams and Evo Big Twins & Sportsters
__________________
NO, they DON'T all do that!
ROCKOUT rocker shaft inserts... make the tapping STOP! From the guy that FOUND and CURED the problem NO ONE ELSE COULD, thank you for your support! Ordering & info http://www.rockout.bizOn ebay! ...CLICK HERE Also on amazon.com...
If theres any part of you that wants to change cams or think you might want to change cams, I would just cut them and use adjustable.
with that said, if i was changing or upgrading the tensioners and cam bearings I would be shopping real hard for a drop in cam, I mean your already in there doing the work and a cam only change can be a substantial upgrade
As noted, the adjustable rods take away the possibility that the stock does not have the proper length for the lobe of the cam. +1 on upgrading to the hydraulic chain tensioners as well.
You guys are making some great points. I'm thinking it might be worth going with adjustable pushrods now. I wouldn't have a problem doing cams this winter as well, but also including the hydraulic tensioners might be a bit outside of what I was planning on. At least the adjustable rods will save me some work/cash if I do hydraulic tensioners and cams next year.
I know I've had a few people mention in the past that with the first set of tensioners lasting over 50k, hydraulic upgrades might not be necessary. Are you guys thinking with different cams it would be necessary?
You guys are making some great points. I'm thinking it might be worth going with adjustable pushrods now. I wouldn't have a problem doing cams this winter as well, but also including the hydraulic tensioners might be a bit outside of what I was planning on. At least the adjustable rods will save me some work/cash if I do hydraulic tensioners and cams next year.
I know I've had a few people mention in the past that with the first set of tensioners lasting over 50k, hydraulic upgrades might not be necessary. Are you guys thinking with different cams it would be necessary?
Not necessary, but it will help stave off having to go back in to the cam chest for several years.
Even though I did move to a hydraulic plate, you certainly don't need to. You got 50,000 miles out of your first set of shoes, and there are longer life options available. If you're happy with your performance and just want a quick and inexpensive refresh to keep things reliable for another chunk of time, you can certainly do that. In that case, I think I would open the tops of the rocker boxes, remove the rockers and pushrods, install a set of Rockout bushings, change the breather elements and umbrellas, install a set of Cyco shoes on the cam plate, and be done. Without actually adding anything up, you're probably looking at one weekend and a hundred bucks!
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
Pushrod Removal Method?
