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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Bubba, how wide are your bars? This could increase your sensitivity. (If you're used to narrow bars, that is.)
If you've ruled out any/all health issues for yourself, then I'd check the bottom neck bearing race for detents. Usually, that happens from hard wheelie landings, OR hitting speed bumps/curbs quickly. I'm guessing the latter.
Bubba, how wide are your bars? This could increase your sensitivity. (If you're used to narrow bars, that is.)
If you've ruled out any/all health issues for yourself, then I'd check the bottom neck bearing race for detents. Usually, that happens from hard wheelie landings, OR hitting speed bumps/curbs quickly. I'm guessing the latter.
Thanks Norty, I haven't measured the bars but they're similar to a dirt bike style bar, but a bit wider and without the crossbar between the uprights.
I am leaning toward the neck bearings from what I've gathered here, I just haven't had an opportunity to put it up on the jack and check it out. I don't have a garage so I have to do all of my work in the driveway, and its a pain getting the damn Dyna upright and straight on a jack.
I am still able to ride the bike around town and for short jaunts, I just keep it under 60 mph, plus I have my Vulcan for longer rides so I'm not missing out on any ride time, thankfully.
2000 FXD – mine was a little twitchy too. Did motor mounts including the center with alignment. Then swingarm bearings. Both helped a little. Did the neck bearings and BINGO – rock solid. My point is all items mentioned can contribute. You will need to go over one by one but there is an answer.
2000 FXD mine was a little twitchy too. Did motor mounts including the center with alignment. Then swingarm bearings. Both helped a little. Did the neck bearings and BINGO rock solid. My point is all items mentioned can contribute. You will need to go over one by one but there is an answer.
Thanks. I have been tinkering at it as time permits. Ill get it figured out
I had an 01 T Sport; hopped up 103. Under certain conditions and at high speed it could wobble a bit. Steering was very light. A tech told me to set fall-away and add 1/8 turn; world of difference. 39mm forks are a bit flimsy on pre-06 FXDs. You could just add 1/8 turn on the neck bearings and see if theres a difference; but do it according to the service manual
Maybe. Maybe not, I dont know for sure. It seems more likely steering/neck bearings are too tight.
Another thing I thought of yesterday while I was riding it is the possibility of a warped rim on the front. Does anyone know of a way to determine if a wheel is warped? Is it as simple as jacking it up off the ground and give the wheel a spin then watching the wheel?
It's that simple for a badly warped wheel. There is a spec, allowable warpage (run-out), which will be a few thousands of an inch. To get that accurate you need to eliminate wheel bearing play (if any), get the wheel off the ground & straight up & down, and measure with a dial indicator. Jack it up as straight as you can, hold the bars steady, gently spin the wheel, use a pencil or stick steadied against the ground or forks, eyeball it for 1/16 inch or less. I wouldn't go down that rabbit hole unless it was real bad. It's an art to true a wheel.
It's that simple for a badly warped wheel. There is a spec, allowable warpage (run-out), which will be a few thousands of an inch. To get that accurate you need to eliminate wheel bearing play (if any), get the wheel off the ground & straight up & down, and measure with a dial indicator. Jack it up as straight as you can, hold the bars steady, gently spin the wheel, use a pencil or stick steadied against the ground or forks, eyeball it for 1/16 inch or less. I wouldn't go down that rabbit hole unless it was real bad. It's an art to true a wheel.
Its a mag wheel so I doubt it can be trued like a laced wheel.
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