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My Dyna is twitchy

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Old Jun 13, 2021 | 06:29 PM
  #21  
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Bubba, how wide are your bars? This could increase your sensitivity. (If you're used to narrow bars, that is.)

If you've ruled out any/all health issues for yourself, then I'd check the bottom neck bearing race for detents. Usually, that happens from hard wheelie landings, OR hitting speed bumps/curbs quickly. I'm guessing the latter.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2021 | 04:41 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by NORTY FLATZ
Bubba, how wide are your bars? This could increase your sensitivity. (If you're used to narrow bars, that is.)

If you've ruled out any/all health issues for yourself, then I'd check the bottom neck bearing race for detents. Usually, that happens from hard wheelie landings, OR hitting speed bumps/curbs quickly. I'm guessing the latter.
Thanks Norty, I haven't measured the bars but they're similar to a dirt bike style bar, but a bit wider and without the crossbar between the uprights.
I am leaning toward the neck bearings from what I've gathered here, I just haven't had an opportunity to put it up on the jack and check it out. I don't have a garage so I have to do all of my work in the driveway, and its a pain getting the damn Dyna upright and straight on a jack.

I am still able to ride the bike around town and for short jaunts, I just keep it under 60 mph, plus I have my Vulcan for longer rides so I'm not missing out on any ride time, thankfully.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2021 | 04:21 PM
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2000 FXD – mine was a little twitchy too. Did motor mounts including the center with alignment. Then swingarm bearings. Both helped a little. Did the neck bearings and BINGO – rock solid. My point is all items mentioned can contribute. You will need to go over one by one but there is an answer.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2021 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by scoriden
2000 FXD – mine was a little twitchy too. Did motor mounts including the center with alignment. Then swingarm bearings. Both helped a little. Did the neck bearings and BINGO – rock solid. My point is all items mentioned can contribute. You will need to go over one by one but there is an answer.
Thanks. I have been tinkering at it as time permits. I’ll get it figured out
 
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Old Jun 16, 2021 | 10:17 PM
  #25  
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I had an ‘01 T Sport; hopped up 103”. Under certain conditions and at high speed it could wobble a bit. Steering was very light. A tech told me to set fall-away and add 1/8 turn; world of difference. 39mm forks are a bit flimsy on pre-06 FXD’s. You could just add 1/8 turn on the neck bearings and see if there’s a difference; but do it according to the service manual
 
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 08:18 AM
  #26  
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I just got the #45 Torx I need for the pinch bolts. I plan to take a look at the neck bearings and set the fall away/swing back this weekend.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 08:38 AM
  #27  
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Wheel bearings?
 
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 08:48 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by billib1954
Wheel bearings?
Maybe. Maybe not, I dont know for sure. It seems more likely steering/neck bearings are too tight.

Another thing I thought of yesterday while I was riding it is the possibility of a warped rim on the front. Does anyone know of a way to determine if a wheel is warped? Is it as simple as jacking it up off the ground and give the wheel a spin then watching the wheel?
 
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 01:15 PM
  #29  
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It's that simple for a badly warped wheel. There is a spec, allowable warpage (run-out), which will be a few thousands of an inch. To get that accurate you need to eliminate wheel bearing play (if any), get the wheel off the ground & straight up & down, and measure with a dial indicator. Jack it up as straight as you can, hold the bars steady, gently spin the wheel, use a pencil or stick steadied against the ground or forks, eyeball it for 1/16 inch or less. I wouldn't go down that rabbit hole unless it was real bad. It's an art to true a wheel.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 04:06 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by SmittyFXDWG
It's that simple for a badly warped wheel. There is a spec, allowable warpage (run-out), which will be a few thousands of an inch. To get that accurate you need to eliminate wheel bearing play (if any), get the wheel off the ground & straight up & down, and measure with a dial indicator. Jack it up as straight as you can, hold the bars steady, gently spin the wheel, use a pencil or stick steadied against the ground or forks, eyeball it for 1/16 inch or less. I wouldn't go down that rabbit hole unless it was real bad. It's an art to true a wheel.
Its a mag wheel so I doubt it can be trued like a laced wheel.
 
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