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[QUOTE=rasmukri;20028343]Holy crap you run the oil almost full? Wow! never heard anyone with an external breather say that before, everyone says run it at the add a quart line, also when i first installed a external breather i had a normal looking filter element instead of the catch can and had the oil at 3/4 full on the stick and there was oil every-****ing-where coming off that filter element which is why i switched to a catch can from @DK Custom - ST or @DK Custom (one of these should tag them to check out this thread) . As i said in my OP i just replaced the breather assembly and the valves have only like 20k miles on them. spark plugs look great as does the inside of the combustion chamber.
yes almost full also check it. It does breathe oil but not much. Also have 13.25 rears so level may not be perfect but its not to be over thought though. You breather most oil out when down shifting from higher rpms.( slipper clutches would help and are fun if you have good brakes and the right suspension setup and can actually brake and accelerate though a turn) If I were you I would do something better with my breather setup anyway and let it breathe its just a production motor anyway just keep checking oil and pressure and adding when needed.Cost less than 40 dollars to do it yourself with stainless hydro lines. Make and tap two an3 or 4 fittings and then just tap and plug passage to cleaner. But maybe you should just head down to Home Depot and get enough rubber hose for 4 dollars and run back to the earth where it will be adventually return to anyway. But dont plug it or restrict it you will blow valve cover gasket fast. Good luck
I currently run red line 20-50 oil but i am due for an oil change soon anyway so I'll grab some 60W next time i swing by the Harley shop and see if that effects anything. I live in the Mojave desert so it doesn't get below 80f for more that a couple months of the year.
I replaced the umbrella valves and the crank breather assembly all at once a few months ago. I also changed out my oil pump to the SE high velocity one last year when i converted to the hydraulic chain tensioner system, I also checked the crank runout before i put it all together and it was well within spec so I don't believe the oil pump to be an issue. I run the reusable filter from K&P but I've had that for like 5+ years without any issues, so i don't think its related to the blow-by.
I have done a compression test a while back and it was like 155 psi in each cylinder, based on the specs in my signature line does that sound right? Or do i need to hone out the jug and toss in some new rings? But since both cylinders are the same i am lead to believe that I'm good since logically if there was an issue one would be lower than the other.
What was your runout? Unfortunately HD changed they "within spec" for runout quite a few years ago, so we have seen them "within spec" where the oil pump is not scavenging well.
I would check every other possibility before going down that road though.
What was your runout? Unfortunately HD changed they "within spec" for runout quite a few years ago, so we have seen them "within spec" where the oil pump is not scavenging well.
I would check every other possibility before going down that road though.
I don't recall the numbers, it was one of those look at the spec and check, then relook at the spec, and move on moments, i never wrote anything down.
I finally got the primary back together so i took it for a ride the other day. I filled it with straight 60 oil from HD, it was about 115f outside and i was averaging 80 mph went 45 miles each way with a 1 hr stop in the middle. When i got home there was a smidge of oil on the top of the breather but nothing on my exhaust pipe like there was before. However this was a pretty short ride so I'm not sure how well it will translate to a longer trip. I cleaned out the breather and cleaned the filters before setting off so the can was starting from a blank slate. I forgot to open it and check the insides, I'll do that today when i get home and report.
Edit: Opened it up and there was some oil but not much. I think it's gonna need a longer ride to see for certain if the thick oil solved it or not.
a while back my cam chain tensioner exploded and sent orange flakes throughout the oil, i got a hell of a lot in the filter and there was some in the cam box but everywhere else was clean and orange flake free. i pulled the rocker covers off, lifters, pushrods, and pulled the oil pan and it was all good, so i think it exploded very shortly before i pulled it apart. When i put it back together that is when i upgraded to the hydraulic tensioner and SE high power oil pump since i was in there and new parts were a good upgrade for me at the time. I dono if that could be effecting something somehow, but I've put like 10k miles on since that upgrade and 2 oil changes and not a spec of tensioner to be found in the oil or the filter.
Last edited by rasmukri; Jul 13, 2021 at 06:49 PM.
Reason: add catch can check info
I don't recall the numbers, it was one of those look at the spec and check, then relook at the spec, and move on moments, i never wrote anything down.
I finally got the primary back together so i took it for a ride the other day. I filled it with straight 60 oil from HD, it was about 115f outside and i was averaging 80 mph went 45 miles each way with a 1 hr stop in the middle. When i got home there was a smidge of oil on the top of the breather but nothing on my exhaust pipe like there was before. However this was a pretty short ride so I'm not sure how well it will translate to a longer trip. I cleaned out the breather and cleaned the filters before setting off so the can was starting from a blank slate. I forgot to open it and check the insides, I'll do that today when i get home and report.
Edit: Opened it up and there was some oil but not much. I think it's gonna need a longer ride to see for certain if the thick oil solved it or not.
a while back my cam chain tensioner exploded and sent orange flakes throughout the oil, i got a hell of a lot in the filter and there was some in the cam box but everywhere else was clean and orange flake free. i pulled the rocker covers off, lifters, pushrods, and pulled the oil pan and it was all good, so i think it exploded very shortly before i pulled it apart. When i put it back together that is when i upgraded to the hydraulic tensioner and SE high power oil pump since i was in there and new parts were a good upgrade for me at the time. I dono if that could be effecting something somehow, but I've put like 10k miles on since that upgrade and 2 oil changes and not a spec of tensioner to be found in the oil or the filter.
Hopefully that heavier oil will do the trick for you in the hot temps. Time will tell.
Hopefully that heavier oil will do the trick for you in the hot temps. Time will tell.
Took a ride down the hill to Riverside today. It was like 103f and that was about 2 hours each way.
Still spitting oil out the top of the catch can. Not nearly as much as before so the 60 weight oil definitely helped. The oil is filled properly and all that.
You can see in the pics the can doesn't have much oil in it and the filters aren't super saturated, not much oil in them at all actually.
You can see the oil mist on the exhaust pipe and the top of the can.
I'm wondering if I were to use a thicker/heavier foam filter inside the breather itself if that would help with stopping the areation of the oil and make it stay more inside the rocker box.
Or if I were to use heavier or more foam inside the catch can if that would help.
Took a ride down the hill to Riverside today. It was like 103f and that was about 2 hours each way.
Still spitting oil out the top of the catch can. Not nearly as much as before so the 60 weight oil definitely helped. The oil is filled properly and all that.
You can see in the pics the can doesn't have much oil in it and the filters aren't super saturated, not much oil in them at all actually.
You can see the oil mist on the exhaust pipe and the top of the can.
I'm wondering if I were to use a thicker/heavier foam filter inside the breather itself if that would help with stopping the areation of the oil and make it stay more inside the rocker box.
Or if I were to use heavier or more foam inside the catch can if that would help.
You did not picture the following foam and baffles...
If you are using the above foam and baffles and oil is making it all the way thru those and out the top, there is all together too much oil/pressure blowing thru there.
The only other thing that could be a problem is if the oil and pressure are exiting that threaded tube before it gets to the bottom of the catch-can. You can email a photo if you are not sure about it. (a photo of the threaded shaft that the oil travels down, to the bottom of the catch-can)
Took a ride down the hill to Riverside today. It was like 103f and that was about 2 hours each way.
Still spitting oil out the top of the catch can. Not nearly as much as before so the 60 weight oil definitely helped. The oil is filled properly and all that.
You can see in the pics the can doesn't have much oil in it and the filters aren't super saturated, not much oil in them at all actually.
You can see the oil mist on the exhaust pipe and the top of the can.
I'm wondering if I were to use a thicker/heavier foam filter inside the breather itself if that would help with stopping the areation of the oil and make it stay more inside the rocker box.
Or if I were to use heavier or more foam inside the catch can if that would help.
I've always been puzzled on why people run catch cans like this. Looks terrible. When I purchased my bike the dude had one of those filters instead of a can. Blew oil all over the pipe and my leg. Absolutely terrible. Granted yours should contain the oil and not spew all over the pipes. I run my bike hard, 100% of the time. My motor is built (stock bottom) and that dinky little catch can you're using would never work in my setup. Guaranteed i'd have the same issue.
My point being, might not be just the motor causing it (although it's likely it could be. Increase in crank case pressure = increase in blow by. i.e. rings or guides). Might be the way you ride. I did a custom catch can on my bike. Mounted to the frame down low, primary side on the down tube behind the front wheel. Heads connect to a T, then one long hose all the way down. Never leaks, does it jobs, and vents externally.
I've always been puzzled on why people run catch cans like this. Looks terrible.
I did a custom catch can on my bike. Mounted to the frame down low, primary side on the down tube behind the front wheel. Heads connect to a T, then one long hose all the way down. Never leaks, does it jobs, and vents externally.
I like the look of it. however, the zip ties are a temp thing till i get around to making it a little more professional.
How about a pic of your breather setup? because I'm quite curious of your design.
You did not picture the following foam and baffles...
If you are using the above foam and baffles and oil is making it all the way thru those and out the top, there is all together too much oil/pressure blowing thru there.
The only other thing that could be a problem is if the oil and pressure are exiting that threaded tube before it gets to the bottom of the catch-can. You can email a photo if you are not sure about it. (a photo of the threaded shaft that the oil travels down, to the bottom of the catch-can)
I didn't show the rest of the stuff since I was just taking a pic of the bottom oil in the can. I have them all in there like they should be though. The rod stays threaded into the top side and it is in there quite snug so I don't think anything is leaking out of the top.
I like the look of it. however, the zip ties are a temp thing till i get around to making it a little more professional.
How about a pic of your breather setup? because I'm quite curious of your design.
Disregard the cracked/broken intake bracket. Runout by now is at or over .007 (was .0065 last I checked) on a stock bottom. Bike is shaking itself to death. Dogs on 3rd just broke so it's probably time for a full rebuild. 70k hard miles.
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